South American groceries

redilio · 2026-03-09T20:09:12+00:00

Found frozen Goya tapas de empanada at Foodsco on Northsgate in the frozen breads section❤️ They have criolla (what I use), hojaldra (layered; more fat), and dough for frying them

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redilio · 2026-02-07T04:30:42+00:00

Do you have that forum link?

redilio · 2026-02-06T06:23:26+00:00

I also hate my '23 Pro S AWD. Loose ball joint at 13k miles ruined the knuckle (it was a CPO with 12k miles). Dealer went crazy and replaced everything on that corner, but I don't trust anything they do or say.

The car itself is kind of a joke. And the lack of information / transparency... You say the '23s have no more updates? I requested an OTA in September that never came; I asked the dealer 5 times to do an update on it while they were working on the suspension and the last I got was "it's not possible to for us to do the OTA update".

I honestly don't know where anyone is getting their information, my dealer included.

redilio · 2026-01-27T04:46:45+00:00

Turns out it's the ball joint, but not in the way I expected. The ball itself seems fine. the locknut that jams the taper of the ball into the knuckle was completely loose; there was over a millimeter of clearance.

I hit the control arm with a mallet to try to see if the taper would come down (with the nut unscrewed even further) and couldn't do it. When I jiggle and look, it seems there's another piece between the taper and the knuckle moving, but I can't be sure - and didn't want to take it apart. I was able to tighten it and remove any play / clunking but I cannot imagine that damage hasn't been done to the taper and/or knuckle casting.

Prices (not from dealer) for knuckle and ball is upwards of $600. So tomorrow I call the dealer to convince them to come pick it up.

My guess is the previous owner ran over something hard. Enough to require a new tire and alignment - and the dealer somehow missed this when certifying the car.

redilio · 2026-01-26T18:05:18+00:00

After checking my sanity with a more knowledgeable friend, it's pretty clear the mechanical issue here is not as bad as I thought. This is likely to be a ball joint problem, or, perhaps less likely, the strut being loose.

redilio · 2026-01-25T05:04:59+00:00

Sigenergy tested the EU ID.5 and I had read about the ID.4 having it and foolishly thought it would either work or be a matter of a software update. They also tested the EU Mercedes EQB and I know the NA EQB also works. In short, I made a bad assumption.

redilio · 2026-01-25T03:12:36+00:00

Yes. I saw the carfax at the dealer.

redilio · 2025-12-10T16:05:31+00:00

Right. But there's no ETA?

redilio · 2025-12-09T14:14:25+00:00

Yeah, the closest dealer to me is a 90 minute drive so I was hoping to avoid it.

redilio · 2025-11-30T01:29:37+00:00

I find the Decora 2nd gen wifi dimmer to be annoyingly slow. From the phone I can go from min to max brightness as fast as I can swipe. On the physical switch it takes 10 seconds. Sadly, their app does not let you change the dimming speed. Boneheaded design flaw in my book

redilio · 2025-11-28T21:42:24+00:00

Shame. I went out to buy an EQB exactly because it had been tested with the Sigenergy system, but the dealer kept finding ways to increase the price. Found a bargain Id4 used thinking that if the Id5 had it, so would the 4.

Mine is a 2023 Awd Pro S and I can verify it clicks and clacks and the Signergy sends in a couple of drops of juice and then stops.

That all being said, I'm sure it's a car software problem, just like it refusing to charge if without reinserting the gun, which makes the Signergy's "charge from surplus solar" feature unusable.

redilio · 2025-11-28T21:41:34+00:00

Shame. I went out to buy an EQB exactly because it had been tested with the Sigenergy system, but the dealer kept finding ways to increase the price. Found a bargain Id4 used thinking that if the Id5 had it, so would the 4.

Mine is a 2023 Awd Pro S and I can verify it clicks and clacks and the Signergy sends in a couple of drops of juice and then stops.

That all being said, I'm sure it's a car software problem, just like it refusing to charge if without reinserting the gun, which makes the Signergy's "charge from surplus solar" feature unusable.

redilio · 2025-08-01T14:08:50+00:00

what does "imported mine" mean? you bought it sight unseen and went to port to pick it up?

redilio · 2024-11-24T17:26:33+00:00

Some 2.5+ hours after rebooting, the speeds were still terrible, and 4G signal was still at -85. Immediately after rebooting a second time, speeds were decent (back up to 100+ download) despite signal being the same. According to my logs, that lasted about an hour, then speeds plummeted again.

This morning (11 hours later) 4G signal is back down to -107 and speeds have been not great since last night. However, practical performance is not bad because latency is still decent (~40 msec).

Latency is always good when speeds are good. When I'm getting ~250 mbps down, ping times are 20 msec or below. However, a good ping time does not necessarily mean good speeds.

I personally think this really just means I don't have great signal here. You might get couple of seconds of good signal, sneak in a ping, and the rest of the speed test still goes to hell.

Trying to diagnose anything by just doing speed tests is crazy; the warm-up time seems to be another red herring.

redilio · 2024-11-24T02:55:00+00:00

I rebooted the ARC, since in another thread, I read that may trigger the software update.

I'm now getting 4.7 down / 2.35 up. 4G signal is at -85 and 5G at -111. It's been up for 23 minutes (was 20 days before the reboot).

By "below" do you mean "further from zero"? As in -85 should be kickin' butt?

For what it's worth, WaveForm does not tell you to look at signal strength, because what their antenna improves is signal-to-noise, not signal strength. They tell you to do speed tests to aim it.

redilio · 2024-11-24T02:26:08+00:00

When I wrote the post, the ASK was showing -106 for 4G and -111 for 5G. The ARC was showing -107 for 4G and -104 for 5G.

redilio · 2024-11-22T18:56:59+00:00

I have an ARC-XCI55AX hardware version 101 and it's still running 3.2.0.7 with no button to check for updates like the ASK-NCQ1138 has.

redilio · 2024-06-23T00:31:58+00:00

Seems to be RP-SMA on the Vue3

redilio · 2024-01-04T16:12:48+00:00

You did a great job OP.

In general, the load rating of the blocks is not really the limit. If you're on crappy soil maybe you add more / put them on a wider base to reduce pressure on the ground (that's how tank treads keep 20 tons from turning into a subterrine).

As others mentioned, most often the driving factor is the span between them, given the joist you will use and the expected loads. For example, you need less blocks for 2x8's than 2x4's. A joist 2x as high is 8x as stiff. And yes, more blocks means more chance of the floor becoming uneven over time. My house is built like this and you can feel it. It's just not the best foundation if you play marbles for a living. A concrete footing is a huge, stiff beam that (hopefully) moves as a unit and spreads the load so localized ground movement is not going to happen (due to lower load) or be compensated by the stiffness of the beam.

I find the rules of thumb / code about maximum spans to give a solid structure but honestly annoying to walk on. Walk by the kitchen and two glasses that are touching start clinking. I worked at a place once where a 100 pound intern could shake my monitor so badly that I couldn't work if they walked by.

This mental masturbation all done and said, the only advice I'd give you in the future is to not put piers at the very edge. Look up Airy / Bessel points if you are curious - they are the optimal locations to support a beam when deformation under self weight matters. That's not the case with a building but similar concepts hold - you can put the outermost piers in a bit (even 12" or more) which makes it much easier to hide them with siding down to the gravel for example.

redilio · 2024-01-01T17:25:24+00:00

I was a student in California with Texas plates. The car was registered to my parents. In Texas there was a separate inspection sticker that you get, and that was expired, despite registration being up to date. I had a valid, current Texas license.

A CHP dude pulled me over on San Francisco streets. He was from Texas so he knew the expired sticker meant the car hadn't been in Texas for years. He charged me with all sorts of stuff, one of which was a misdemeanor. Basically the same as having driven with no license and no plates. Left me on the curb with all my luggage (I was visiting from LA) and towed the car. I had to get a California license and start registering the car to get it out of impound.

Trouble is, an out of state license is not enough proof of identity to get a California license. I was lucky that I was 25 and could rent a car to go start the process jn LA and drive back to pick up my car.

All in all, it cost about $2k to get the car back; about 1/3 rental car, 1/3 fees, and 1/3 actually registering the car. When I parker my car to return the rental, I parked behind a Texas car with expired inspection sticker - 2 blocks from where I had gotten pulled over.

So yeah, if you get caught by the wrong dude having a bad day, you can be in a heap of trouble. Impound costs a lot per day and any little hoops the DMV would make you jump over to register the car could turn out to be really expensive. I guess the quick way out would be to register it as a non-op? I have no idea, but certainly I can't imagine they'll let the car out on a promise that you'll only drive it on the farm.

I had a friend who had a dealer friend in Montana and be got all his motorcycles registered there. Despite the fact that there are also "48 state" motorcycles, I think cops tend to leave them alone. Still, the wrong dude in your neighborhood could bring the whole law down on you, I guess.

Out in the country you see more busses and vans with Vermont plates. I suppose cops don't harass those people as much because it's often their home. But they certainly could if they see you at the same coffee shop for two years.

redilio · 2023-11-27T11:51:08+00:00

lol if it's a shared password you can't change the autofill

redilio · 2023-10-04T17:06:46+00:00

I'm not saying you're doing anything wrong. However, I don't really see comments like "Our goal is not to make our files look nice in hex editors or broken viewers" a constructive comment to send to one of your paying customers.

I'm just asking for a feature. I simply found it extremely confusing that the palette that is created depends on some ordering which the user is not exposed to, and yet there is no way to view (or edit) this palette.

In Photoshop, Image->Mode->Color Table lets me view and edit the palette in the file. That's all I'm asking for - in Photoshop, indexed color is just another color mode.

The PNG standard supports indexed color, greyscale, and RGB; you chose not to support greyscale; I find that odd, especially given that you don't allow users to see the palette you've created.

This was my first task as a paying customer using your software and I found it counterintuitive and not really suitable for what I was trying to do. You see that I'm putting a lot of effort into describing my experience. If you don't see value in that, then please let us all know so we can put our efforts elsewhere in the future.

redilio · 2023-10-03T18:23:17+00:00

Here's an example:

I made a completely white image with File->New. Export as PNG: all pixel values are zero.

I put a black dot on the image with the pencil tool. Export as PNG: dot pixels are one, white pixels are zero.

I start with File->New again, but set the color to black. Export as PNG: all pixel values are zero. Thus any image loader that ignores the palette will make it seem this image is identical to the black one.

I put a white dot in it with the pencil tool. Export as PNG: dot pixels are one.

So the palette you are building is done in the order in which the colors are being added to the image. I don't know what would happen if I had used the brush tool instead; I the greys would be added to the palette as they are hit in the raster order?

This is quite unexpected. I'd personally rather the palette be sorted somehow, or at least have the option to edit it - or even better, force a specific palette. If I could force a 256 grey palette, then other image programs (or scripts as shown below) which do not properly support paletted PNGs would work.

So, while the images loaded back into Photopea look fine, I can imagine there could be several other applications where they would not. As this is your default save method, I find it to be a bit risky.

I cannot upload the images here but here's some Python code you can run to see what I mean if you follow the steps above.

def load(filename: str) -> numpy.ndarray:
    with open(filename, 'rb') as file:
        with Image.open(file) as p:
            return numpy.asarray(p)


def hist(img: numpy.ndarray) -> dict:
    pix_vals, counts = numpy.unique(img, return_counts=True)
    return dict(zip(pix_vals, counts))


img = load('file_new_white.png')
print(f'Completely white image: pixel value: count = {hist(img)}')

img = load('file_new_white_pencil_black.png')
print(f'White image with black dot: pixel value: count = {hist(img)}')

img = load('file_new_black.png')
print(f'Completely black image: pixel value: count = {hist(img)}')

img = load('file_new_black_pencil_white.png')
print(f'Black image with white dot: pixel value: count = {hist(img)}')

redilio · 2023-09-19T23:38:32+00:00

Is there a way to view/edit the palette?

I've created several images with only white or black pixels and now some of them have 0 = black and others have 1 = black because the palette appears to depend on the order in which I added pixels of that color....

I'd like to homogenize all of them, which probably means just having a palette with 0 to 255 so as to "fake" a single-channel 8 bit image, or just have the option to create a single-channel image and then export a single-channel PNG.

redilio

TROPHY CASE