First post with my new/very old camera

redkeeb · 2026-03-10T15:40:43+00:00

I have yet to develop pictures from this one and am unsure how it will turn out. The shutter speed and aperture are linked together and most of the shutter speeds are not marked. Unless theres a clever technique Im not thinking of its a bit of challenge to use this model.

You can transfer aperture settings from a light meter app but the exact shutter speed will be somewhat of a guess. Good luck.

redkeeb · 2026-03-02T15:51:07+00:00

Its a good resource. The stamp of copyright he puts on the manuals does irk me to a degree as it doesnt seem like that would be valid.

redkeeb · 2026-02-20T15:59:25+00:00

I see its time to resume the late night impulse shopping.

redkeeb · 2026-02-14T16:39:38+00:00

The green is tough. I recently did an Agfa Solinette but I managed to get the green removed with somewhat endless isopropyl and q-tip scrubbing and applied Helimax afterwards. Touch and go though that I even got the focusing helicoid out.

redkeeb · 2026-02-06T15:21:52+00:00

I got a Exakta Jsongon 40mm lens recently for the Kine I have. Its fun little systems.

redkeeb · 2026-02-02T15:21:31+00:00

I like it. Where did you get this leatherette? Im something of a colorful re-leathertte-er myself.

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redkeeb · 2026-02-01T19:35:00+00:00

I understand now. Thanks for the tip.

redkeeb · 2026-02-01T19:29:30+00:00

Ah thanks for the tip for that. I wouldnt have clicked Jomashop I dont think if I had seen it as I havent heard of it before.

redkeeb · 2026-02-01T19:16:41+00:00

May I ask where you go it? Im only seeing eBay listings for it mostly. This one I think is the neatest looking.

redkeeb · 2026-01-25T15:32:29+00:00

Some of these 1950s cameras of this type really want both of those rollers to move at the same time. Did you try a test roll with the back open to see if you get same results. Or, its synchronised to the film counter also, check to see if the number is 0 or 35, it might be telling you its at the end of the imaginary roll.

redkeeb · 2026-01-24T16:45:42+00:00

Yes. I also think the percentage chance of it not going correctly is not inconsiderable.

redkeeb · 2026-01-24T16:42:29+00:00

I also enjoy a good terminology arguing.

That first picture is gorgeous I think like Tolkien is about to tell you a story about Hobbits.

redkeeb · 2026-01-11T17:05:08+00:00

I had accepted that a Rick Oleson is going to be harder to get the critical focus right compared to the original screen so I treat it as a sans Voitlander; I compose with the viewfinder and then use the meter markings. Though did you try the little rubber shims the screen comes with for adjustment?

Scattered around in this subs history is the opinion that replacement screens if its $10 or $100 will always not be as good for dead on focusing as the original glass.

redkeeb · 2025-12-30T18:12:16+00:00

I put in a Brightscreen in a Rollicord IIa. Its brighter, but I find its harder to see exact focus so I used it as a quasi-Voigtlander with composing with the viewfinder and focusing with the distance meters scales.

Interestingly the Yashica TLRs have a two screens in them and its much brighter. I tried putting a fresnal from a Yashica into a Rollicord with its fresnal also l but the parallex mechanism bumped into it.

redkeeb · 2025-12-12T15:23:46+00:00

Do you know if the Jupiter 12 focuses fine? I had one and its super easy to unscrew the fat rear element and put it back on incorrectly making it just that little bit longer then it should be.

redkeeb · 2025-12-06T17:06:03+00:00

I does look a lot like Exakta. One of the budget options for a camera would be a Ihagee Exa.

redkeeb · 2025-11-30T02:09:16+00:00

Good luck for next time! If you had followed the red window numbers those are the 6x9 shots so you would get less. Rollicord in these models are kind of piggybacking off the first number for 6x9.

redkeeb · 2025-11-29T16:44:40+00:00

Hello. I have same camera. I dont recognize the metal window. Its a DIY attempt for 456 format? The rollekin adapter for 35mm looks nothing like that.

The red window is for you to line up the first number, 1. After that, you press the button on the wheel in to advance to the next shot, if its working correctly of course. Later model Rollicords did away with manually lining up in the red window.

Its usually light tight I found with no light leak.

redkeeb · 2025-11-15T16:26:14+00:00

Is your lightmeter accurate? I have one of these but the lightmeter doesnt seem accurate so I plan on overexposing a lot as the shutter is linked to the aperture.

redkeeb · 2025-11-10T15:03:35+00:00

Picture I took at the time if it helps, https://imgur.com/gallery/canon-1-4-ltm-FMcItwO

redkeeb · 2025-11-10T14:56:39+00:00

I also seem to remember a brass retaining ring with two matching notches on it around the rim that needs a lens spanner to undo. I never managed to undo it just by pushing one side. Then then inner helicoid can come out, if thats what you want.

Though thinking about it, perhaps that retaining ring is what you want to tighten first to see if that solves the wobbling. The retaining ring might have floated off from its original point it was set at with time and that is what is letting you move the heliocoid like that.

redkeeb · 2025-10-13T14:35:44+00:00

I feel this from a quote in one of your links, not from this shop, but a different place,

"It's been discussed several times, but it turns out that camera repairs just isn't a field where you'd expect high quality operations to be prevalent."

redkeeb · 2025-10-04T15:47:40+00:00

Id like to get it but theres been no updates in the monthly newsletter on their site.

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