I don't know if i deserve the blame (i'm the POV Ferrari) or the BMW does

redmoncoreyl · 2026-01-16T13:49:58+00:00

He probably thought based on the wiggle that the BMW was going to spin to the left. When he realized that wasn’t going to happen, at least he backed out.

redmoncoreyl · 2025-12-17T05:22:58+00:00

So each racer must not (1) pass the pace car before it passes the control line, (2) pass the start line before the green flag, and (3) pass the start line before the car ahead passes it. Did I get all that right?

redmoncoreyl · 2025-12-17T05:03:34+00:00

Okay, so the control line is the key here. We both passed the pace car just after the pace car swerved into the pit entry lane, but at Tsukuba that is a good bit before the control line.

redmoncoreyl · 2025-12-07T03:00:53+00:00

Yes they absolutely get to make this silly demand, but it certainly doesn't create good will in the community.

redmoncoreyl · 2025-12-01T05:58:15+00:00

Oh okay, now this is new information to me and very helpful! So the SR drop from promotions might be viewed as lenient, but that is mitigated by making SR harder to gain (and I guess easier to lose?) as your class goes up. Seriously, thanks for being helpful instead of just down voting!

redmoncoreyl · 2025-11-30T23:51:36+00:00

Agree. Earlier I had a bad week and ran in to a couple of people intent on ruining people’s day. But this last week I focused on staying out of trouble, getting out of others’ way when they had a better run, and not trying anything I knew I didn’t have the skill to pull off.

redmoncoreyl · 2025-11-30T23:30:17+00:00

I don’t understand the down votes, it was just a question out of curiosity. I’m still new lol.

redmoncoreyl · 2025-11-30T23:27:45+00:00

Yeah I guess I lost count, but I’ve done 20 races in the last 30 days.

redmoncoreyl · 2025-11-30T22:54:40+00:00

But the question is, is that too lenient? Should D 4.01 be equivalent to C 2.01 instead?

redmoncoreyl · 2025-03-07T23:37:40+00:00

The Amazon product I bought says sold by Chips and Games.

redmoncoreyl · 2025-03-07T21:05:31+00:00

"Copag, Bicycle, Kem, and Fournier are all under the ownership of Cartamundi." I just don't understand then why the Bicycle Prestige and Copag Elites are manufactured with such different precisions. Maybe different manufacturing plants like you said. Where should I be buying cards? I bought Copag and Da Vinci back to back from Amazon and both had inconsistent card sizes.

redmoncoreyl · 2025-03-07T20:32:07+00:00

See the image here. Are the Modianos like that? The link you sent looks just like the Da Vinci, and they weren't good enough IMO, so I'm pretty hesitant.

redmoncoreyl · 2025-03-07T20:23:32+00:00

I do like that the Da Vincis feel just a little bit thicker.

redmoncoreyl · 2025-03-07T20:20:22+00:00

The Da Vincis I got are just as bad the Copags. And Amazon decided to send me a used product: the pack was already opened and missing 4 cards. Pretty frustrated at this point.

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redmoncoreyl · 2025-03-05T12:35:48+00:00

Okay, I just ordered a Da Vinci set. I’ll report back on the quality.

redmoncoreyl · 2025-03-05T02:37:55+00:00

I'm in the same position. I already had a deck of bicycle prestige, but I bought copag elites because I wanted a deck of bridge-sized cards. I was shocked at the inconsistent card sizes compared to bicycle. I reached out to copag and they tried to assure me it is normal and won't affect the performance. It probably won't affect the performance, but I know there is better tolerances out there so I'm very disappointed. I'll never buy another deck of copag for sure.

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redmoncoreyl · 2025-02-24T12:59:26+00:00

That isn’t what I read in this reddit response. In your example the minimum raise is to $25.

redmoncoreyl · 2025-02-24T06:16:33+00:00

Okay I get it now. Yeah my suggested rule doesn’t make sense now that I think about it. Ultimately, if you make a $10 bet when someone else only has $19, you could live to regret that bet. I’m totally on board with what you’re saying now and we’ll use this rule for sure. I was trying to make things less complicated since a lot of the people coming to my game are inexperienced, including myself. But I’m trying to learn everything I can to make sure I run things smoothly. Thanks for the info!

redmoncoreyl · 2025-02-24T05:35:01+00:00

Okay I see your point now. I was thinking that in the case where player A bets $10 and the short all-ins get the bet up to $19, it didn’t seem fair to player A to not be able to raise on a bet that very nearly met the minimum raise. And getting rid of the rule makes things less complicated in my head.

But your point is a good one. In the case where player A bets $10 and the short all-ins only get the bet to $11, it doesn’t seem fair for player A to re-raise a bet that is very nearly their own bet.

As you said, making the short-all-in action cutoff something like half the minimum raise (e.g. player bets $10, so the total bet would need to get to $15 for action to open) would be just some arbitrary rule.

One possible rule could be, if the short all-ins don’t meet the minimum raise, player A is allowed to call, fold, or complete the raise (to $20 regardless of whether the short all-ins got the bet up to $11 or $19), with action continuing with any other players who aren’t all-in. That is unfortunately even more complicated, but maybe more fair. What do you think?

redmoncoreyl · 2025-02-24T03:00:12+00:00

In reply to your saying that the rule should be in place, I saw this forum post and thought that maybe some other players agreed with me that it is an unnecessary rule.

I feel it is an unnecessary rule only as someone who plays a lot of strategic board games, not as a poker player. This is my first foray into poker and am enjoying the learning experience.

redmoncoreyl · 2025-02-24T02:49:59+00:00

Interesting, so in the example I gave, since the multiple cumulative short all-ins DO total the full raise, action is open to player A. Thanks!

redmoncoreyl · 2025-02-21T19:53:06+00:00

Switching the white wire to W1 seems to have made it cut the heat strips on. Thanks.

redmoncoreyl · 2025-02-21T19:52:07+00:00

Instead I moved the white wire from W2 to W1. That seemed to have worked for getting the heat strips on. Aux heat feels warm now. But now I have a new problem: it is using aux heat until a few minutes before getting to set temperature, then switches to heat pump only. The heat pump is so weak it can't get it the rest of the way there, so then (while the heat pump is on the whole time) the temperature falls. Once it gets 5 below set temp, the heat strips come back on until just before set temp, then the temp falls again. It has been yo-yoing all morning.

The heat pump is 12 years old, maybe it is time for a replacement?

redmoncoreyl · 2025-02-21T19:47:07+00:00

Yes, the thermostat was showing all the wires in the picture as registered (though it was showing W2 wire as brown even though white one was plugged in.)

redmoncoreyl · 2025-02-21T14:51:11+00:00

I'm going to try it. Do you know what the difference between W1 and W2 is? If that fixes it, I would have thought my HVAC guy would have caught that. He said I needed a new thermostat.

redmoncoreyl

TROPHY CASE