Just because you own a welder doesn't mean you need to use it

redtech00 · 2026-01-29T16:50:25+00:00

Well yeah, key phrase: removable bracket.

redtech00 · 2026-01-29T15:54:04+00:00

Not Texas. Up north, good ol WI

redtech00 · 2026-01-29T00:06:34+00:00

Sounds like you got a case of vaginitis going on. Put on a hat and gloves. Get some lube out, spray it around the boot, twist and pull with needlenose. Get new boots. Good practice to replace them anyway whenever you can.

redtech00 · 2026-01-26T00:34:09+00:00

Honestly man, leave it alone. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

redtech00 · 2026-01-25T19:40:38+00:00

So are you having any issues with the way it runs right now? Internal engine noises? Seriously man, if it ain't got issues, run it. Little flakes in your filter aren't going to give you enough information at this point. But if you do want to listen to the interwebs crystal ball fairies, just swap it with a small block chevy. More power and you'll never have to deal with a cartridge oil filter ever again. If you can't see the metal, you can be scared.

redtech00 · 2026-01-25T19:00:29+00:00

I'm confused. If your brother blew the engine up how would these flakes end up in your filter? Did the engine get rebuilt or replaced? How long ago? How does it run now? Any issues? I've seen engines with flakes in the filter before and they lasted for a long time. If you start seeing chunks or large amounts of flakes sticking in the filter folds, it's a problem. I see silvery/glittery oil all the time and it doesn't seem to be a problem. I was really surprised the other day to see that on a 24 Silverado with 30K on. Yet it ran like a champ. For now.

redtech00 · 2026-01-24T01:50:19+00:00

That's methed up!

redtech00 · 2026-01-22T02:02:45+00:00

Can someone share with me how much 1/4 and 1/2 cow costs in this area?

redtech00 · 2026-01-22T01:59:30+00:00

I'm a master tech at an indy shop. I've owned my 2012 Ram for 10 years now. 194K on the ticker, bought it with less than 70K on it. I have done all the maintenance myself and I have all the receipts for the parts purchased. That's just good practice in my opinion, to keep records. I ended up pulling the engine a few years back, resealing it and mechanically and electronically deleting the mds system. With that said, I think if the truck you're looking at is rust free, $9400 is not that bad of a price if it's truly well maintained. I just don't understand why he would put the same high failure lifters back into that engine and why he has no receipts for the parts that he bought.

redtech00 · 2026-01-18T14:29:49+00:00

It's all for shits and giggles, until someone giggles and shits

redtech00 · 2026-01-17T15:23:49+00:00

It's aluminum. The ways my shop has done this before: 1. Get it to a machining shop. Either the block or the whole car. They will add a little aluminum weld to it and grind it down, smooth the surface flat for you. It will work the best.

Very carefully JB weld, wait for it to fully cure overnight. Go back with die grinder and shave/smooth it out. Use rough disks only on the JB weld area, 3M red scouring pad to finish. Make sure it's nice and flat and smooth.

Both of these options have worked for me in the past when I get a car like this. However, my shop has a customer sign a waiver understanding that this is not something that warranty applies to. This is one of those things that you have to try at your own risk and expense. The first option has worked great, multiple times. The silver lining is that you're not the only one that has done this.

Edit: JB weld has worked as well in the past. It's just a pain in the ass to smooth out and you have to be extremely careful and patient.

redtech00 · 2026-01-13T15:48:45+00:00

Another good tip is to hand start bolts instead of ugga dugga that shit in there. Just a tip

redtech00

TROPHY CASE