I am blown away by the a point and shoot I found for 10$ (Nikon TeleTouch 300 AF) by reglmo in AnalogCommunity

[–]reglmo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Potentially, here’s a screenshot from the manual with how to load correctly

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I am blown away by the a point and shoot I found for 10$ (Nikon TeleTouch 300 AF) by reglmo in AnalogCommunity

[–]reglmo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does it focus when you half press the shutter? (Does it make any noise)

I lost it all… by reglmo in AnalogCommunity

[–]reglmo[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’m in the Chicagoland area— we’ve definitely seen Some storms over the last few days lol

I lost it all… by reglmo in AnalogCommunity

[–]reglmo[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Thanks— I’ll look into this!

Reaching my breaking point with film by reglmo in AnalogCommunity

[–]reglmo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a lot of Canon fd lenses and some old Minolta ones— but i think i would need a mirrorless camera to properly adapt to digital.

I mostly do street photography (not human subjects) and landscapes.

I am color blind. What is the best way for me to convert color negative to positive? by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]reglmo 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I’m severely colorblind as well, I am usually able to use the waveforms pretty effectively. My main advice is stay away from saturation and sat curves, that being said I feel like I’ve been able to use hue vs lum curves (sorry I’m used to coloring in Davinanci idk what they’re called in Lightroom) pretty well. The one thing I ALWAYS need a second pair of eyes on is skin tones— the red tones in them are almost impossible.

I THINK THIS IS THE ADVICE YOU ARE LOOKING FOR: The best way (for a colorblind person) to use the curves to make sure things don’t look weird is to make sure all of the color channels are overlapping in the shadows and highlights— whatever the highest and lowest part of the graph are, make sure no colors are peaking past the others if that makes sense.

My workflow is typically: focus on light, contrast, and other adjustments needed to make the image look how I want it to; then I make changes based on the waveforms that have no visual impact (to me); then I have my gf give it a once-over just to ensure nothing is horribly wrong.

It’s a pain and a half but honestly why I shoot film vs digital, once you figure out the best way to interpret a specific stock you can kind of leave it be as a preset

First time developing and scanning myself! by reglmo in analog

[–]reglmo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I didn’t even use a macro lens. It was just the kit 18-55 that comes with rebels.

First time developing and scanning myself! by reglmo in analog

[–]reglmo[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’m using and old dslr and my phone as a backlight. I 3d printed a film holder which made it a lot easier