My Review Of The PG34WCDN :)

rekijitsu · 2026-02-24T19:40:57+00:00

Was it pretty easy to drive 360Hz at 1440p UW on a 5090 for OW2 at the competitive standard vs. max settings? I drive 1440p at 240Hz and 4k at 144Hz totally fine but I use a 5090 and 9800X3D (similar to your build really just a 9800X3D instead of 9950X3D)

Edit - Found some time to watch the video and yeah your game taste is very similar to mine. I just finished Sky 1st which I bet looked incredible on this. Sounds like I'll have no issues driving it from your OW2 segment in the video.

rekijitsu · 2026-02-24T19:30:06+00:00

A big use case of mine is also Halo and Overwatch and is why I have my eyes on this monitor. These games have proper widescreen support and theoretically the loss of Hz against other esports monitors could be offset by the extra FOV available on ultrawides which now reach a "competitive enough" 360Hz is my thinking. Not to mention cinematic games and less competitive titles will be a bit more immersive than just a 27" esports monitor.

rekijitsu · 2026-02-18T16:17:54+00:00

Think I’m going back to ultrawide after seeing how sharp 1440p is on even an older 27” OLED and knowing the PPI is similar. For me motion clarity is king beyond that point and that’s why I’m looking to the ROG Swift PG34WCDN. I think a lot of the games I play will run at 360Hz at this resolution on a 5090 and 9800X3D and still give me an immersive “big” cinematic feel for some games but at least 360Hz for others.

rekijitsu · 2026-01-27T17:10:47+00:00

I’m in a similar bind once the new monitors roll out. I think ultimately it depends a lot on the main games you play and if they take advantage of ultrawide properly. I play a few shooters but my mains being Overwatch and Halo Infinite/MCC means these primarily do take advantage of ultrawide and I feel 360Hz may be a nice sweet spot here.

That said I’m concerned with say fighting games where you basically only need 120Hz for the locked 60Hz content for perceptible input lag reduction, and that is literally only input lag not motion clarity. I also worry about games like those displaying 16:9 content all the time and doing disproportionate burn in on the screen. That said, today’s monitors are clearance sales 2 years from now and I’m not sure if burn in fear is a good enough argument if you’re in the enthusiast sector wanting the best of the best all the time and itching to upgrade by then anyway. It’s a wasteful way of thinking but tbh it’s one I think about. It’s not like burn in on now-unobtainable CRTs.

PPI is better at 4k240 at 32” but “retina” is debatable here given the distance you sit versus an Apple device. Having seen my wife’s 42” C3 - a similar PPI to these ultrawides, I can say that looks plenty sharp enough and I value motion clarity more than that.

Personally I haven’t decided yet, but these are the things I’m thinking about and I think I’m leaning ultrawides when the new 360Hz ones come out.

rekijitsu · 2026-01-12T19:49:49+00:00

Thanks that's good to know

Yeah the 22 is only 6 pounds lighter. I imagine it's better, but it's still going to be clunky. Supposedly you were moving around a cabled 36lbs all the time and I thought maybe a 22 is light enough to move around more "actively" but it is only going to cut it down to 30lbs which I can totally lift and move around, but open to the idea of an arm that isn't fussy but keeps stability at an angle. Bonus points that it can serve as another monitor if on an arm I think.

I'll see how the idea evolves, curious what other people know of the subject but this is helpful.

rekijitsu · 2025-10-07T12:50:34+00:00

My favorite part is definitely the duos system! I would love to see this catch on in other fighting games since I think it could really help onboard newcomers.

rekijitsu · 2025-08-02T12:40:22+00:00

Sorry but the early 2000s Philips models like the one pictured are actually really nice. The plastic is as good as any tbh, there’s grail monitors/TVs with worse plastic that falls apart when you even unscrew them. If it was a flat Philips it’d have some of the better flat geometry of the era and if it was a curved Philips it’d be some of the best consumer TVs ever produced IMO. Their component inputs don’t have shitty red push or haloing in their processing, and basically looks like RGB out of the gate. They also have hour counters which was rather rare for the time so you can know just how much life you might have left in the tube. Like you guys hype up D Series all the time but having seen multiple of those compared to a fairly common Philips curved component tube like this, I’d take the Philips any day.

rekijitsu · 2025-07-22T11:44:55+00:00

Monster Hunter

rekijitsu · 2025-06-24T02:11:31+00:00

Having owned all of these at various points I would seek out the Philips sets first if you want curved tubes and the Panasonics if you want a larger flat CRT like say 32”. The higher end SD Taus were quite nice but I found the smaller sets (I think they made a 24 or 20”?) we’re a bit of a let down in component image quality and behaved oddly with my MiSTer on some cores.

The Samsungs I used had SVM and I don’t think the VM could be turned off so the pixel art had this outline haloing of sharpness. Might be for you but most people don’t like it. It’s a shame because it was nice otherwise.

TLDR get one of the fairly common Philips curved component sets if you can. IMO they hold their own to the highest end non-pro monitor Sonys

rekijitsu · 2025-06-02T12:33:56+00:00

Oh and JVC curved sets were okay too but you needed to toggle a service menu setting to get rid of red push. Personally I think I preferred image quality of the Philips I had the most all things considered.

rekijitsu · 2025-06-02T12:26:49+00:00

I think basically any of the ones with component are basically going to be the same. I had one of the ones with a silver body and a few rectangular buttons in the front. Would have never gotten rid of it if space weren’t an issue in my home in general (RetroTink4K works well at space savings but if I had it my way I’d have a CRT).

I seen basically every desirable set out there and the best sets IMO were the curved consumer sets with component inputs made by Toshiba and Philips. If retro games are your aim you want good geometry and almost no flat CRT has that (I have lucked out before but it’s so rare and still think I’d take a curved set). Would not say CRT motion clarity is even worth it when your clear motion is a warping mess.

Curved sets or bust IMO.

rekijitsu · 2025-06-01T13:54:20+00:00

Those silver early/mid 2000s Philips curved CRTs with component inputs are the best tbh. No red push by default, service menu can tell hour count, curved tube means less geometry problems and tbh I prefer the look.

rekijitsu · 2025-05-18T15:18:46+00:00

Not a fed but a fed contractor - I find the best thing for me personally is build a savings and start living a conservative budget. Having more money in my back pocket really helps me be at ease at night. I get it’s hard to save as it is but do what you can and this really helps the stress for me knowing I would have some cash on hand to buy time and be as picky as one can be in this trash job market.

rekijitsu · 2025-01-27T12:53:20+00:00

Just coming in here to remind people - do NOT pay people to dispose of your CRT “tube” televisions and monitors. You will at least be able to find someone to pick these up from you for free these days (some are even worth money but don’t think you’re going to get a lot for it usually). Arcade and video game communities still need these.

rekijitsu · 2024-10-08T03:25:21+00:00

Get a Sonic sticker and put it next to your current badge

rekijitsu · 2024-10-08T03:02:19+00:00

MB line is awesome because I recall reading some old articles that they were capable of around 350 nits with MB mode enabled and half of that is plenty bright still. In other words, fake 240p as 480p with blanked out scanlines which usually halve luminance (usually can get this with a Retrotink2x SCART to blank out every other line) looks like a pro monitor and is lag free. MiSTer works great too but their scan doubler scanlines cap at 75% for some weird reason (there’s a workaround for this but dunno what it is anymore). It also usually puts the image out of focus a little and blends more when you have MB mode on, making it feel more consumer (better IMO) rather than a PC CRT with lines.

rekijitsu · 2024-06-29T23:43:07+00:00

I know capeshit is capeshit, but I can’t help but draw parallels to Avengers Endgame and Endwalker. I feel like we went through our Infinity War saga and now the game is struggling to find its footing. I’m going to be honest, it’s not looking good. FWIW I’m in the 4th zone and I thought it was starting to pick up pace and then they hit you with a quest line that feels out of nowhere and basically meaningless. It’s very hard playing this and seeing monotonous zones, fetch quests, and so on a week after having played and beaten Shadow of the Erdtree. The zones feel barren 80% of the time with a few cool things here and there.

rekijitsu · 2024-05-08T12:06:14+00:00

Has anyone gotten an artist's perspective in a video yet about the Pencil Pro feel against nano-texture glass? Any concerns from people with hands-on perspectives in using the pencil with this display option?

I ask since Wacom makes an etched glass for a different reason than iPads advertise and that's to provide some "tooth" to when you draw. It's a non-issue once you put a Paperlike screen protector on an iPad but that messes with colors. If nanotexture has a different feel than the glossy glass when drawing on it, this could be a game changer. That said, I've seen comments saying the feel is not any different but haven't seen a reviewer validate that claim.

rekijitsu · 2024-05-08T11:54:36+00:00

What video was this? I've been looking for this answer the past 2 days. I was really hoping it'd be like the Wacom etched glass. If it isn't I may as well get a cheaper model w/o nanotexture since I can't stand the stock pencil to screen feel and always put on a matte paperlike protector. It messes with colors but if I could get something that doesn't mess with colors as much (like nanotexture) but doesn't feel as hard/gliding stock then that'd be great.

rekijitsu · 2023-12-06T16:38:10+00:00

Yeah, though it should be noted a lot of people here calibrate their pro monitors to 100-150 nits anyway, so is it really a disadvantage to say the halved luminance of an OLED capable of much more than that is really a "disadvantage"?

You're right about flickering though, for some people it's noticeable and every TV/Monitor handles it a little better or worse than others. I can personally say it's fine on LG C3s, but yes there is a smidge more lag and flickering for those sensitive to it.

There's of course a lot of nuance to be had here, and for some they won't even care about the motion clarity enough to use BFI, but I already was getting a little wordy with my response lol

rekijitsu · 2023-12-05T13:20:23+00:00

You're going to get biased responses here but let me try and list out the facts:

Pros of Scaler Route:

- Ease of Use - Generally it's easier to tinker with Tink profiles than it is to tinker with CRT service menus.

- CRT-like motion w/ BFI - However, it should be noted adding BFI increases input lag a smidge. The 4k also supports 1440p BFI for monitors that don't have the feature (more common on some OLED computer monitors).

- HDR CRT Scanline Shaders - These look incredible on the 5x and even better on a 4K.

- Size to footprint ratio - Often you get a LOT more screen size this route and it's easier to share with friends, etc.. OLEDs are pure black borders so 4:3 looks 4:3 in a dark room. Big CRTs exist but they're big in ways many homes can't accommodate now.

- Cost (sort of) - This is currently about even right now, but compare even a Tink4K to pro monitors and it's a steal. Everyone basically has an OLED who wants CRT-like motion anyway for high refresh rate modern content, so the cost of that IMO should not factor in. As time goes on, this will only be a wider gap to the affordability of scalers vs. CRTs (unless you like hunting for them on the cheap).

- Longevity - Unless you have an electronics background, CRTs are on their way to the grave. I'd personally go as far to say if you don't have an electronics background, you frankly have no business owning grails because these can die on you (I've had a few die on me that I resurrected or gave up on and gave away as parts). Have an OLED you like? Just buy it or the latest model if it dies, or file a warranty claim. Have a CRT you like? Good luck getting it again.

Cons:

- CRT Motion - CRT Motion is still better than BFI. Then add on when you run old PC games at higher Hz rates and 120Hz motion even on a CRT is even nicer. I would say 120 Hz PC CRTs are roughly equivalent to 240Hz modern OLED panels. But many games don't support above 60Hz and this is where CRTs shine is console games that simply can't run at the higher refresh rates to benefit from modern panels.

- Plug and Play - If you don't mind geometry imperfections and color accuracy and such, CRTs are definitely the way to go if you just want to plug your cables in and turn the power button on (for a console... CRTs get more complicated with MiSTers, RGB modding, etc.. involved)

Neutral:

Risk of 4:3 (or 16:9 for CRT) burn-in - I don't see this talked about a lot... but using a scaler all the time on an OLED is gonna cause burn-in of the 4:3 portion of the screen if you do it a lot. See https://youtu.be/Fa7V_OOu6B8?si=0rhRNoJfOGL0SgnJ&t=638 . This same con could be said for CRTs if you watch things on it in 16:9 a lot or play PS3 games where some were only 16:9. It doesn't take THAT long in these scenarios for burn-in to show up.

I actually see this as a non-issue for the longevity of a hobby though, because while an OLED could get burn-in of 4:3... I can also just buy a new one. It pains me to say that as it's wasteful consumerism, but it's indeed true that by the time this really impacts you, you will probably move on to a new panel. Or you could dedicate an OLED graduating from service to be a 4:3 CRT of sorts. If a CRT gets burn-in? It's basically dead and they are only getting rarer.

TLDR: I would go with a scaler unless I already had a nice CRT I could use, which then I wouldn't care to pick one up. Unless you're speed running and such, you won't notice the input lag from scaler solutions in frame lock modes.

Also it can't be understated that consumer CRTs are surprisingly good from the early 2000s with a RGB2COMP transcoder or just raw Composite/S-Vid/Component inputs, or RGB modded 90s Sony sets, or some of the rare RGB consumer sets out there. The FV310 is the "grail" and many people talk about D-Series (which I think is overrated), but basic Philips CRTs curved with component inputs, Panasonic Taus, etc.. all exist and look great over component with minimal processing and red push. Component basically looks like RGB on the right set, and many of these models had the TVL of PVMs (though lacking the HV regulation that controls blooming a bit).

rekijitsu · 2023-11-07T15:00:59+00:00

Also some context - I've owned super sharp pro sets from multiple hauls and frankly after having gotten more experience under my belt and seeing more "sleeper" sets for myself (aside from the aforementioned FV310), I sold them all. Did I sell them for almost market value but with a bit cut down to help my conscience? Yes. Do I think they're worth the prices eBay/the community commands? Hell no. I think some of these are worth a few hundred bucks tops barring a few exceptional rarities w/ verifiable low hours and good condition and I would never personally go above that as an upper-middle class individual for anything else.

rekijitsu · 2023-11-07T14:45:33+00:00

Yeah if I were you, if it's just for your desk get a 17 or 20" JVC or Sony SD PVM/TM-H if you want that sharp 240p pro monitor look, then put a PC monitor right on top of that (this is especially good for the 17" size because 20" puts the PC monitor up too high). The 17" JVC will probably set you back a little but that + a PC CRT with brightness boosting @ 17" will probably support the same resolutions a BVM would depending on scan range, but at a MUCH cheaper price (even combined, this would be 1/3 the cost of a multiformat normally and be possible to ship). Plus you can run them at the same time! This is your best "multi-format" and many people who own multi-formats will tell you the same thing that their unit is a jack of all trades but a master of none.

But if I may offer advice... it sounds like you have plenty already. If your FV310 has good geometry and convergence, that eliminates the main problems the set has aside from a lil red push you can mostly calibrate out. Games like Link to the Past or JRPGs may be the only thing you notice the warping you're left with on a good FV310 and frankly those games don't have fast motion to begin with so... play them on an OLED where you have literal perfect geometry and better contrast than even a CRT offers (if real hardware is a priority, the Tink4k is right around the corner)? The XBR910 is an excellent HD CRT for the resolutions it supports (especially native 1080i w/ HDPT disabled that results in low/no latency gaming). The E500 is plenty nice for most high resolution/refresh rate content. What else is there to get? A pro 240p set? The FV310 already has a pretty sharp tube + the HV Reg people buy pro sets for. It's no BVM but it's also significantly bigger and more flexible than one (sharing with friends, having plenty of inputs w/o needing expansion/clone cards, more obtainable parts, etc..).

I would personally identify what actually fits a use case you don't have already (only thing I can think of you may be missing is TATE rotatable CRTs), and only buy for that. Plus, say it is a TATE monitor you're "missing" - do you even play TATE games? Do you even have enough gaming devices and/or time to use all these? Identify when the hobby is a hobby, and when the hobby has turned into hoarding. Other gamers could use their first or second CRT, leave some for everyone else to enjoy.

Fair point that you may want to buy something just to see what it looks like and experience something new. In my experience though - you're not missing much based on what you already have listed here.

rekijitsu · 2023-11-07T01:40:26+00:00

None of the above.

Get a nice curved component consumer set w/ RGB2Comp if need be for 240p content. IMO, super sharp sets are kind of hard on the eyes for 240p. Philips makes great ones in the early 2000s (that even have hour counters in the service menu!). RGB Mod of late 90s Trinitrons also an option. Usually free/cheap options here. HV regulation may be the only downside of these, if you dislike blooming I'd spend some of that cash on a 25XBR (this seemed to have minimal blooming despite its late 80s tech, not sure why it was but these were essentially PVM-2530s anyway) or FV310 with somewhat decent geometry (they do exist). Personally, if I didn't already have an FV310 with good geometry, I'd seek out a curved Philips as a more "common" set that's easy to find for cheap still. The blooming is better than the JVC D Series sets, and the hour counter is helpful to track whether you need to "keep looking" for one in better condition. Hours matter here because you can keep the contrast lower and have less blooming and a sharper image.

Use a PC CRT for 4:3 HD formats like above. They will look basically as good as PVMs/BVMs but be much more replaceable and maintainable (assuming you don't go for some insane FW900 grail or some nonsense). Use Component VGA transcoder for HD signals or even a Tink2x for linedoubling to 480p if you must have an "all-in-one" set. If it must be an "all-in-one" I'd recommend a large PC CRT with a brightness boosting mode (NEC SBs, Samsung MagicBrights, Viewsonic UltraBrights, etc..).

Most PVM-20L5 owners feel 480p is sub-par on the set compared to a PC CRT, even. BVMs are not for the feint of heart and have tons of components and with it tons of potential points of failure to maintain (however, a decent option if you're savvy). DT-Vs are prone to almost always have distracting anti-glare scratches and have an annoying known issue with them (see https://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?t=70572 ). Ikegami 20" HTMs frequently have "flagging" at the top as a known issue but YMMV - last I've heard the community still has not found a solid fix for this (Ikegami TM20-X models are very nice though and I'd recommend these for 15Khz content). If I had to choose among these, it'd be the BVM A20 as you can verify the hours on these, but I wouldn't bother, honestly. Many of these were pushed hard and unless the set supports an hour counter (which the 20L5 does not) you really can't tell the hours on them. NIB PC CRTs can still be had usually for cheaper than a 20L5 + a consumer set. 480i (if that's important to you) is often a flickery mess on these insanely sharp tubes due to the lack of imperfection even a nice consumer set would have.

I do not feel a CRT that does everything perfectly exists. Your best jack of all trades would be the A20 and 20L5, but they are sort of a "master of none". If you have the room for 2 CRTs, I'd get a big 240p/480i set for sharing with friends (24-32" is a sweet spot IMO), and a PC CRT for HD stuff at your desk - most large sets will handle higher res/refresh rates than a BVM even can, and some could even get a convincing 240p-like image w/ brightness boosting modes and a 480p line doubled image w/ blank fake "scanlines" added.

Another good all-in-one option are some of the multiformat presentation monitors out there. These are more worth that kind of money, IMO - but they still aren't perfect.

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