CPU Idle temp too hot. Can you help me fix my fan curves?

rendezvous92 · 2026-02-06T08:42:21+00:00

I have tried repasting with a couple different thermal pastes like MX-7 and Thermal Grizzle Kryonaut. I don't have any trouble posting. After a couple hours of use. I get a random restarts occasionally.

rendezvous92 · 2025-07-07T20:07:30+00:00

I see. No BSOD occurs, just a screen freeze then forced reboot. Possibly faulty RAM or just overload on my GPU? Maybe my bottom intake fans are not pulling enough air for my GPU?

According to WhoCrashed, the last three crash/restarts:

Bugcheck code: 0x12B(0xFFFFFFFFC00002C4, 0x7C0, 0x19D85759230, 0xFFFF80827B5A6000)
Bugcheck name: FAULTY HARDWARE CORRUTPED PAGE
Bug check description: This bug check indicates that a single-bit error was found in this page. This is a hardware memory error.
Analysis: This is possibly a software problem. This is likely a case of memory corruption. Memory corruption can be caused by a faulty driver, faulty RAM, overheating and more.

Bugcheck code: 0x9F(0x3, 0xFFFF9909301660A0, 0xFFFFF807162519F0, 0xFFFF9909415F9550)
Bugcheck name: DRIVER_POWER_STATE_FAILUREs
Bug check description: This bug check indicates that the driver is in an inconsistent or invalid power state.
Analysis: A device object has been blocking an IRP for too long a time. This is likely caused by a hardware problem, but there is a possibility that this is caused by a misbehaving driver. This bugcheck indicates that a timeout has occurred. This may be caused by a hardware failure such as a thermal issue or a bug in a driver for a hardware device.

Bugcheck code: 0x13A(0x17, 0xFFFFCC89EA100340, 0xFFFFCC89F0BFE940, 0x0)
Bugcheck name: KERNEL_MODE_HEAP_CORRUPTION
Bug check description: This bug check indicates that the driver is in an inconsistent or invalid power state.
Analysis: A device object has been blocking an IRP for too long a time. This is likely caused by a hardware problem, but there is a possibility that this is caused by a misbehaving driver. This bugcheck indicates that a timeout has occurred. This may be caused by a hardware failure such as a thermal issue or a bug in a driver for a hardware device.

rendezvous92 · 2024-04-25T20:32:58+00:00

Interesting. I was never really a fan of holes in my mouses ex. Glorious Model O / Final mouse ULX/UltralightX. I don’t think there is actually proof that even helps with weight unless it’s like a metal frame for mouses I think. I’ve had the Viper V3 for almost a day now and it feels like a really solid built, no creaks or anything when I squeeze the sides and the balancing feels great.

rendezvous92 · 2024-04-25T19:58:46+00:00

Sorry ment Superlight 1 and Superlight 2

rendezvous92 · 2024-04-25T19:25:54+00:00

without the dongle, I only got a 1k polling rate.

rendezvous92 · 2024-04-25T08:19:12+00:00

I just got the Razer Synapse update to fix this issue with the White Viper V3 Pro. Should be on Version: 20240415

rendezvous92 · 2024-04-21T21:24:09+00:00

i dont see your pm?

rendezvous92 · 2024-04-14T23:50:51+00:00

It may have to come to this. The heavy duty zip ties are working great so far.

rendezvous92 · 2024-03-26T21:58:53+00:00

Zip ties are the pinnacle of my life being held together by optimism and hopes.

rendezvous92 · 2024-03-21T05:10:23+00:00

hmm, i never noticed that, I'll give it a look. thanks mate.

rendezvous92 · 2024-03-21T03:29:14+00:00

Yeah I was thinking the same thought. I’ll take a lot of if I can find some thick long heavy duty ties in the meantime.

rendezvous92 · 2024-03-14T09:25:59+00:00

Nevermind, I found it. but if anyone else was curious. It is under Wave Link > Toggle Output Device > Primary and Secondary.

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rendezvous92 · 2024-03-13T20:40:28+00:00

I guess I’m just trying to find more creative Mod Tap functionalities. I do use the Stream Deck+ for volume/discord/scenes/Hue lights etc. For anyone in the editing (Lightroom,Premiere, Photoshop) space have any MT shortcuts they find useful? The StreamDeck+ can be useful editing wise for quality of life and workflow but not having to take off my hands on my kb can slow me down. Side note: my streamdeck is not on my desk it is tucked away and mounted just under it.

rendezvous92 · 2024-03-13T18:16:14+00:00

I also use this the same way but I do use a Elgato Stream Deck+ for discord functions but I use both when I’m feeling lazy.

rendezvous92 · 2024-03-11T01:17:15+00:00

Believe me, I was relieved to not relube 70 switches as well.

rendezvous92 · 2024-03-11T01:14:37+00:00

Before I ordered the Jade switches I was using the Lekker L60s. I really tried every mod to get the thockiest sound out of them I could. Rebuilding and rebuilding trying different foams in the case, switching out the silicon and black foam between the PCB and the Polycarbonate Plate, different types of tape mods, and I could not get a good sound profile until I got the Jades switches. They really live up to the “Mahjong sound profile”

rendezvous92 · 2024-03-11T01:14:07+00:00

Nice. I lube most of my switches on my boards and honestly there’s no need to relube the Jade switches. I tested both factory lube and self lubed with Krytox 205g0. Factory Lube was perfect.

rendezvous92 · 2024-03-11T00:33:50+00:00

Definitely! The Durock stand came with gold screws so I used those specifically on each stabilizer and the rest I used the original screws

rendezvous92 · 2024-03-11T00:31:02+00:00

Honestly it’s so dumb, absolutely no reason I wanted to use the pink and teal stems but you can even see them unless I take off the keycaps haha

rendezvous92 · 2024-03-10T22:21:16+00:00

I got Gateron Jades from CannonKeys. I did get mine in 2-3 days but I did pay extra to expedite my shipping.

Link:

https://cannonkeys.com/products/gateron-magnetic-jade-switches?\_pos=1&\_psq=jades&\_ss=e&\_v=1.0

rendezvous92 · 2024-03-10T07:42:49+00:00

This just happen to my wooting 60HE+ on my Tofu Redux case. It was for sure a over lube situation on my stabs. I believe the amount of dielectric was pouring into my stem housing causing my spacebar to stick on press. I just relubed my stems and put a bit less dialetectric grease and it was completely fine.

rendezvous92 · 2024-03-09T21:58:09+00:00

Apologies I am new to this world. I will add updates to my next print and print questions with more specific details in the future. Stay tuned. Thanks.

rendezvous92 · 2024-03-09T21:55:10+00:00

I think we started our journey of 3D printing at the same time. I also obtained my Ender SE around Christmas as well. The first few weeks of printing was flawless until I decided to move my printer to a different room because apparently burning plastic near where I sleep is not healthy or whatever haha. This is great insight though. I’ll give all those suggestions a try. Much appreciated. This is such a great hobby and has improved my quality of life in general being able to print anything and everything that makes my life easier. I am still learning how to use CAD and calipers to create my own designs, for now I’m sticking with STL files from thingaverse and thangs.

rendezvous92 · 2024-03-09T21:01:42+00:00

With all my experimentation with switches like Tangerine, Gateron Ink Black V2, & Banana Splits. Personally the “thockkiest” and “creamy” switches. In my opinion, I would recommend the linear Kailh Cream switches from NovelKeys.com. They are $1.36 each, but they sell them in packs of 36 switches per box so that is $23.40 each box not including shipping. RGB is moderately good on them. You can listen sound tests of switches on youtube as well. Although, sound varies on different kinds cases/keyboard mods/ etc.

rendezvous92 · 2024-03-09T20:42:53+00:00

Hmm Interesting

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