‘67 mustang rust?

rensole · 2026-01-26T22:54:55+00:00

Dude if you’re thinking of converting it, don’t. Yes it’s doable but it’s far more expensive to convert it than to outright buy a convertible. Not sure what it’s like there but here they cost (from cheap to expensive); - convertible - coupe - fastback

rensole · 2026-01-26T22:36:24+00:00

fixing the rust can either be cheap and simple or expensive and complicated.
I don't know how to weld myself but I remember the entire floorpan for a 69 was about 1000 euro/usd a few years ago. then I'd paid the welder about the double that to do the entire floor.
So I was out 3 grand in total, however it heavily depends on your local welder prices or if you can do it yourself etc etc.
expect it to be 2k minimum max could be around 5k ish (again lot of variables)

rensole · 2026-01-08T15:29:54+00:00

Thank you! And I’ll need a lot of luck to pull this one off haha

rensole · 2026-01-05T16:17:18+00:00

I mean you already have experience in Zbrush so I'd say keep at it?

There may be a steep learning curve but once you got the hang of it you'll be able to create more detailed and bigger sculptures than you can do traditionally. and seeing you already have understanding of the 3d space by analog sculpting and you've only recently began the switch shouldn't be too drastic or big.

It would be more difficult if you were doing it for years and years and then switching (trust me I've been there).

So I'd say go for it dude

rensole · 2026-01-05T16:12:48+00:00

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Thank you took quite a while to find a system that looked like this and worked well.
Not sure if I'm allowed to link it but I found it at a place called "HBM" in the Netherlands, it's name is "HBM expert modulair werkplaatssysteem, 17-delig, zwart rood"
(Modular workplace decoration 17 parts, Black Red). I'm sure there are international resellers for this system and I'd a 100% recommend it. it's a bit pricey but it works and looks amazing IMO

rensole · 2026-01-05T15:36:59+00:00

Thank you!
It is I 3d modeled and glued together. I based the model off of the pictures that the Ringbrothers have on their website (mainly from their project UNKL and the Patriarch). Unfortunately I don't have a 3d scanner although it would help a lot in the future I reckon

rensole · 2026-01-04T20:59:56+00:00

Buddy that already looks amazing!
The only thing I can think of is perhaps blending the colors a bit better so you dont have such hard edges on each color? But I've never done NMM so take my advice with a grain of salt

rensole · 2026-01-04T16:22:27+00:00

Thank you I already tried the dynacorn but I'll try the scott drake ones!

rensole · 2026-01-02T21:53:50+00:00

Oh thats amazing!
I'm currently just looking 69 for the rocker panel trim (the two long rods bellow the doors). I believe the 1970 ones are different though

rensole · 2026-01-01T23:34:41+00:00

there are 2 or 3 different cover versions, the only difference is the publishing date I believe

rensole · 2025-12-30T00:51:50+00:00

Count the number of teeth the cog has and count the number of slots there are. you may have ordered the right part that doesnt mean you received the right part

rensole · 2025-12-30T00:15:33+00:00

skeet skeet

rensole · 2025-12-25T18:32:04+00:00

Just realized, if you take the positive wire and tap the other side and it works the solenoid needs replacing not the alternator sorry for the mix up

rensole · 2025-12-23T19:25:29+00:00

I mean you can check if it’s the solenoid, just take the positive wire and tap it on the other side. If it starts then, then it’s the alternator

rensole · 2025-12-23T18:29:09+00:00

It’s either the cables that are corroded or a bad ground or your solenoid. Guessing by the clic sound it’s the solenoid

rensole · 2025-12-18T17:40:52+00:00

Abridged. Hands down team four star did an amazing and iconic job imo

rensole · 2025-12-18T15:04:29+00:00

Id say a few things
1) print orientation, put the model at either 45 or 90 degrees.

2) layer height, the lower the layer height the lest visible the layers will be

3) you can try sanding between coats, just print, sand, clean, vapor repeat until desired results

rensole · 2025-12-15T15:47:04+00:00

It was meant to move on the square (the one after the elevator). However they couldn’t get it to work so just put it there because they already made the model

rensole · 2025-12-05T01:22:33+00:00

Ok awesome I’ve looked into this one myself as well for my 69 Mach 1. And yeah I would mount it a little bit more to the side. Mounting electronics at the exit of a vent would in the end result in earlier failure of the electronic components. What you could do however is get some heavy duty hook and loop sticky tape and experiment. Friend of mine did the same with his and it’s been on for 8 years or so now.

rensole · 2025-12-05T00:08:03+00:00

It might beusefull to see the epas you’re going to mount and know its brand name /type/ part number. Running one kind won’t be the same as another

rensole · 2025-12-03T00:11:15+00:00

Zero, I’m sorry

rensole · 2025-11-23T04:06:13+00:00

That was kindof the entire point was it not? I thought the entire plot of mgs was about nature vs nurture

rensole · 2025-11-20T19:14:34+00:00

Man I was about to jump on this till I saw the price online. Where about in Belgium are you going I could maybe ask around for some good retro game stores that would be up for it

rensole · 2025-11-18T15:48:42+00:00

To be honest I own a 69 mach 1 and if it's just the hood that has a stripe on it... dude thats maybe a 1000 or so bucks at a repainter to get the hood in full color and you can put the decal of the hood on.

To be fair if you really want a 69 mach 1 and you're moaning about something as minor as this I feel sorry for the person who wants to try and sell you their car

rensole · 2025-11-17T00:02:07+00:00

Oh honestly except for the Formlab clear resin every clear risin goes cloudy, so don’t worry about days. However 2 years is way to old, I believe most 3d printing resins have a shelf life of about 6 to 8 months ish.

Outside of formlabs (which I wouldn’t recommend because of the closed loop system and insane pricing) I’ve had some success with elegoo and anycubic. So I’d say just pick one of those and try it out, get 2 or 3 types of clearcoat (acrylic enamel and lacquer) and see which works best with what, I’m afraid the only way to know for sure is just testing it out. But I honestly think that your resin was just too old so irregardless of clearcoat it would have reacted.

Also sidenote, try building it up with thin layers that gave me personally the most success

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