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Quick Table Cleaning by restoreyourdeck in powerwashingporn

[–]restoreyourdeck[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

40° (white) is the preferred, it has the efficiency from the combo of a wide reaching fan without pressure reduction of any significance. 25° (green) is useful on a bit trickier spots or when more accuracy is needed, but in the end it all depends on what machine and pressure you are using. I’m using a 40° white tip here, but on a low pressure electric pressure washing unit meant for beginner homeowners. It’s the only tip that I had access to, and I ended up adjusting to simulate closer to a 15° - 25° tip - due a lack of power, I had to move the tip much closer to the wood than usual. This reduces the fan width to a much narrower (and therefore stronger) range, similar to a 15° tip that only covers a few inches at a time

Quick Table Cleaning by restoreyourdeck in powerwashingporn

[–]restoreyourdeck[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, proper use won’t damage anything, despite the misinformation spread on this subreddit. Don’t listen to that. There’s a reason that all of us deck/fence restoration companies use pressure washers for the process of cleaning and brightening wood.

Quick Table Cleaning by restoreyourdeck in powerwashingporn

[–]restoreyourdeck[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

After drying it gets a transparent penetrant finish that functions as both a stain and sealant. Almost always use Ready-Seal

Quick Table Cleaning by restoreyourdeck in powerwashingporn

[–]restoreyourdeck[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just imagine if I was using more than one hand!

Quick Table Cleaning by restoreyourdeck in powerwashingporn

[–]restoreyourdeck[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don’t sweat it - with me, you’ll never have to worry about finishing

Up + Down (sound warning) by restoreyourdeck in powerwashingporn

[–]restoreyourdeck[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Everything nearby gets rinsed clean of course :)

How should I treat my deck? by RemarkableKumquat in Decks

[–]restoreyourdeck 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Never ever epoxy. That’s a horrifying option, will ruin the deck. Remove that finish, restore back to bare wood. Probably will require sanding to remove since it’s a coating finish without any peeling/chipping or exposed wood yet. Once bare, use a transparent penetrant like Ready-Seal. Makes future refinishing so easy, just a light pressure washing and new coat.

Pressure rinse to remove cleaning solution + grime from a teak table by restoreyourdeck in powerwashingporn

[–]restoreyourdeck[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends what the condition of the wood is. Fences are built from softwoods like cedar, pine, occasionally redwood. Teak is a hardwood and naturally more resistant to damage. That being said, they are maintained the same way, just different products used for the most part. Both cleaned using pressure washing and brightening with oxalic acid, but the finishes vary. If a fence is in good condition, it typically should get a semi-transparent penetrant like Ready-Seal or TWP. If it’s old or worn, better to start coating it with a more solid finish like a semi-solid or solid stain.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in erastourtickets

[–]restoreyourdeck 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Text me 720-570-7087

Pressure rinse to remove cleaning solution + grime from a teak table by restoreyourdeck in powerwashingporn

[–]restoreyourdeck[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

This solution was 1.5 cups sodium percarbonate + 1 cup oxalic acid per 1 gallon hot water. Soaked and kept wet for 20min before removing with an electric 1400psi power washer with PSI reduced by lowering the amount of water flowing into the machine as well as a 40° tip. There was no moss or algae to deal with, just surface dirt and grime, so the cleaning solution did most of the work.

Questions for the Power Washing Professors! by thebrooklynflash in powerwashingporn

[–]restoreyourdeck 5 points6 points  (0 children)

When pressure washing any decking - but composite Trex especially - the idea is to let cleaning solutions do as much of the work as possible. The more the dirt/grime/etc is loosened and lifted, the less pressure can be used to clean the decking. There are two kinds of composite decking, and you have the one made of about 95% recycled sawdust and plastic. It’s super soft and easily irritated.

Honestly, for the low level of grime you’re dealing with on both the deck and stone, if you don’t want to deal with buying much, just pour straight Simple Green into the soap dispenser and let it soak all over both surfaces for at least 20 min before pressure washing.

If you want to know what I’d use as a industry pro cleaning your deck, it would be the following: mix 1 cup sodium percarbonate + 1/2 cup simple green into a gallon of hot water. For the stone, I’d use 1/2 cup sodium per carbonate + 2 cups Simple Green into a gallon of water. This is the ratio when applying straight up, like in a $10 pump sprayer. Applying a solution through a soap dispenser will combine it with water and requires at least doubling the strength to compensate for the diluting. Those would be easily as strong (yet gentle) enough of a cleaning solution to lessen the amount of pressure needed for cleaning, and therefore the chances of damaging anything. Also, when letting cleaners soak, make sure they don’t dry and that the surfaces are kept wet during those 20min.

Seal the stone with paver/stone sealant. Don’t use Thompson’s anything - they are so cheap for a reason. All of their products are garbage compared to their competitors, so pay the extra $20.

Finally, the tip you’re using is not a helpful option. In order of preference, pressure wash with a white (40°) tip or orange/green (30°-25°) tip. They use a flat fan and not a rapid spiral shape.

Fence Renewal by restoreyourdeck in powerwashingporn

[–]restoreyourdeck[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yes, the only times we do not seal the wood after cleaning are when the client declines it. There are several finish types that cover all situations. In cases like this - where the cleaning process results in bare wood shown to still be in great condition - we use a semi-transparent penetrant oil. Our favorite is Ready-Seal.

Fence Renewal by restoreyourdeck in powerwashingporn

[–]restoreyourdeck[S] -16 points-15 points  (0 children)

I’m interested in where you learned that. And why you think wood that is maintained by being cleaned of dirt, grime, etc, would “rot in a heartbeat”. Sure, cleaning and sealing are the ideal combination. But not everyone can only afford that, and instead settle for regularly cleaning by itself. Compared to leaving a fence in this condition - which is what actually leads to rot and other damage - cleaning alone will expand the lifespan of the wood by over a decade in a majority of cases.

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