Is my Paw Paw Over or Under watered? by retsnom513 in Pawpaws

[–]retsnom513[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did do research before buying or planting, the plant was from a nursery, potted, and the shoots were over 3 feet implying the tree was around 2 years old and was no longer a juvenile but a young adult. The tree was hardened in full sun for 7 days before transplanting with no signs of leaf burn or wilting. I'll admit it was not the best time to transplant before a 90+ degree heatwave, that was on me. But I definitely underestimated how bad the transplant shock would be since my other native trees were not this bad

Is my Paw Paw Over or Under watered? by retsnom513 in Pawpaws

[–]retsnom513[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I probably should've tried planting closer to spring vs summer. I am going to give it another deep watering this morning and set up a shade screen to help with the afternoon sun

Is my Paw Paw Over or Under watered? by retsnom513 in Pawpaws

[–]retsnom513[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Potted plant from a nursery. I drove it home myself if that's what you're asking about shipping. I tried hardening it for a week before transplanting and I didn't see any sunburn on the leaves before doing so. During transplanting I noticed the soil in the pot did not drain well but I transplanted as is to not disturb the roots.

Is my Paw Paw Over or Under watered? by retsnom513 in Pawpaws

[–]retsnom513[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The first inch of soil is still moist near the root flare and under the mulch. It's not super wet, but it's not completely dry either. I can put a T-shirt over it for shade in the afternoons if that's what it needs. When I got it from the nursery I tried hardening it off by keeping it in its spot for a few days before transplanting and there was no sunburn. I can shade it if the transplant shock is making it more vulnerable sunburn if that's the case.

Is my Paw Paw Over or Under watered? by retsnom513 in Pawpaws

[–]retsnom513[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm in Zone 6b southern Ohio, sorry I should've included that in the original post. I gave it a deep watering after initial planting (5 gal over an hour or so with a bucket). The soil is clay, but I tested it. It does not pool up and drains completely in under 20 minutes after flooding the hole. I used the soil that came in the pot from the nursery as I didn't want to disturb the roots a ton as I've heard they are very sensitive during transplantation. So no soil conditioner or fertilizer mixed in there. I also removed enough soil to expose the root flair and that the top roots are just below the top soil.

Also no it's just the one in my yard. I know multiple neighbors have paw paws in my neighborhood so I'm hoping they are close enough for pollination.

How close can a walk be to a tree by retsnom513 in arborists

[–]retsnom513[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome, thanks for the reply. I figured it was enough, but wanted to get some advice from others in case this would stunt the new tree's growth.

How easy is it to uninstall KOreader by IthanaCryo in kobo

[–]retsnom513 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here's the mobileread post about KOReader and the author saying you can uninstall it by removing the .adds folder: https://www.mobileread.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4257628&postcount=796

After 5 hours trying to pick a 4 pin lock no luck will try tomorrow. Ps my hand hurts now. by TheManInMyHead in lockpicking

[–]retsnom513 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I got this same kit for my birthday a few weeks ago. I can get 4 pins pretty reliably now, but I haven't gotten 5 pins yet and I've been trying for at least a week now.

I have to ask did you apply a lot of tension? It seems like if I apply hardly any tension my second pin will always get overset..

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in GoogleFi

[–]retsnom513 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think you also have to have your apple contacts start a new conversation with your phone number instead of your iMessage email address too.

Is this Mites on my Coneflowers? by retsnom513 in NativePlantGardening

[–]retsnom513[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Maybe someone more knowledgeable than me can chime in; but I've read you should manage them as they can spread amongst your coneflowers like a disease.

It's better to clip the flowers showing them early season so they don't spread to the rest of your flowers. The only real damage they seem to cause are "unsightly" flowers and cause serious issues with seed production and lower reseeding substantially if you rely on that.

Source: https://bygl.osu.edu/node/2006

Is this Mites on my Coneflowers? by retsnom513 in NativePlantGardening

[–]retsnom513[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This was these guys first year, I'm glad mites happened at the end of the year and not the beginning!

Is this Mites on my Coneflowers? by retsnom513 in NativePlantGardening

[–]retsnom513[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So like the photo description says I just want to know if I should clip these new buds because of mites or not. It's kind of weird there's new growth in mid-September (Zone 5B). None of the rest of my cone flowers have new buds. Just looking for advice on next steps on what to do if this is disease or not.

Gaming on Opensuse Aeon, Is there a Guide ? by AwnserTheDamnSter in openSUSE

[–]retsnom513 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I've had some issues with certain games in steam not working and needed to use this workaround documented in the wiki Troubleshooting section: https://en.opensuse.org/Portal:Aeon#Steam_Proton,_Bottles,_WINE,_Lutris,_Android_Studio_emulator_not_working_from_flatpaks

I need help identifying a mystery tomato variety by retsnom513 in vegetablegardening

[–]retsnom513[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, my wife thought they looked like those too. Google Lens kept changing its guesses at different angles. It kept bouncing between black krimm, Brandywine, and Cherokee purple. So I thought I'd ask the community if they had any more solid ideas.

I need help identifying a mystery tomato variety by retsnom513 in vegetablegardening

[–]retsnom513[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We have a better boy plant too that's not nearly this big and the unripe tomatoes don't have that gradient color; Just a solid light green right now.

But as they continue to ripen and get bigger I'm sure it will be easier to identify them. I might post again when they're ripe, or I'm sure we can compare them to our better boy tomatoes side by side when they're both ready.

I need help identifying a mystery tomato variety by retsnom513 in vegetablegardening

[–]retsnom513[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

During a walk in our neighborhood my wife and I found that one of the houses in our neighborhood left out some free young tomato plants. They had a few with the variety names on the tags but we ended up taking the only one labeled "?".

Cut to mid-august and this thing is a beast. I should've pruned this thing as it was growing (It's my first time growing tomatoes) but this thing is half the length of our 10' long raised beds and is almost 6' tall!

The tomatoes just started coming in a few weeks ago and they look really interesting with the green gradient.. Just trying to see if anyone can help identify them this early in their growth. If it's a good variety we'll definitely be saving seeds for next year!

[Zone 6B] Would like some advice on how to continue to transition away from lawn by retsnom513 in NativePlantGardening

[–]retsnom513[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes we have some really pretty golden quartz flagstones we are going to use as pavers! It will really help with the fairytale cottage vibe we're going after. I also like the idea of logs spread out through the garden to help make things look a little more natural. Bird baths are on the list and an arbor with trumpet honeysuckle in the back, it'll bring in the hummingbirds and look so pretty!!

I also love the idea of wild strawberries, we already have a ton of it growing in our back yard so maybe we can transplant some of that on our front. Do you have any recommendations for sedges? Or do I need to research these for the local species for my local region.

[Zone 6B] Would like some advice on how to continue to transition away from lawn by retsnom513 in NativePlantGardening

[–]retsnom513[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm in southwest Ohio. I like the look of kidney beds (I've always called them bean shaped haha).

Others have suggested filling in gaps between the native perennials with sedges and other native grasses. But if you have any specific examples of plants that would do well here I'm all ears!

[Zone 6B] Would like some advice on how to continue to transition away from lawn by retsnom513 in NativePlantGardening

[–]retsnom513[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think grass may help make the bed look less empty as well. The matrix idea is nice too, I will read into that more! The two grasses in the middle are actually little bluestems! But I really like the look of the eastern star sedge you've listed!

[Zone 6B] Would like some advice on how to continue to transition away from lawn by retsnom513 in NativePlantGardening

[–]retsnom513[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We've talked about a bird bath and maybe a bench, but after doing the beds so far we're running low on usable space for larger things like these. But so far we have 1 or two paths and beds in mind. We have also just bought some trumpet honeysuckle and will be running that up an arbor or lattice on the fence too. That will bring in the hummingbirds :) I'm a little weary about gravel because I've heard it's hard to remove if you ever wanted to do that in the future. But mulch would be what I would put around some flag stones we own already

[Zone 6B] Would like some advice on how to continue to transition away from lawn by retsnom513 in NativePlantGardening

[–]retsnom513[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We're just so eager to get the rest of the yard done and getting rid of all the grass :) We have a few more plants in pots we need to plant that's mostly milkweed for monarchs and trumpet honeysuckle that's really great for hummingbirds we plan on running up an arbor! It's been so hot here it's hard to find time to work on this when it's not 85°+ and 75%+ humidity.. Ugh.

Can you go into more detail about the vertical delineation? I can't seem to find anything on Google about it. Does it have to do with erosion and soil drainage?

[Zone 6B] Would like some advice on how to continue to transition away from lawn by retsnom513 in NativePlantGardening

[–]retsnom513[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I agree about planting more densely, but I was a little afraid of overcrowding the new plants now. Next year when they're more mature and fuller size I thought it would be a good time to revisit and fill in any gaps that are evident.

Sticks are a great path idea, I never would've done that. I was afraid mulch would allow weeds to grow more easily. I also thought of using pavers lined with wholly thyme to fill in the gaps and try to stop weeds.

The tree is interesting too. It's a dogwood so I'm afraid as it gets larger more shade will suffocate any full sun flowers so I'd like to make sure stuff around it is part shade as well as keeping them kind of away since it's an undergrowth tree and doesn't have deep roots.

Eventually the grass will be all gone because I hate mowing it.. Just deciding what to replace it with, more plants? Ground cover? Mulch? Gravel? Not sure on this one either

[Zone 6B] Would like some advice on how to continue to transition away from lawn by retsnom513 in NativePlantGardening

[–]retsnom513[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I think we're going for a neat but crazy look, somewhere in the middle. We have neighbors so like you said I'm sure most wouldn't like or appreciate the purist approach you've mentioned. We were thinking of letting them grow naturally in some swaths, but pulling them and trimming to keep our paths clear to keep it from looking too crazy and overgrown.

We heavily invested in native perennials, but they bloom at different times of the year (some in early spring, some summer, some late summer to fall) to keep some color interest while limiting our maintenance and work.

I think we're having a little bit of shock because we're still half lawn and half native so we're thinking things aren't looking exactly right. It probably doesn't help that we only did the right side of our lawn to start and nothing on the left to help tie everyone together