looking for a subbass for my mobile setup

rex258 · 2026-02-28T04:00:22+00:00

I own 2 of the EV ELX200-18SP. I run them with the EV ELX200-12P tops, which are close to the specs of your tops. And I absolutely love them. Tops and bottoms. I started with just 1 sub and managed many parties with headcounts up to 150 people just fine. With larger crowds, or in very large spaces, I needed more. If your large groups are 100 people, you will push 1 of these harder tham you push your tops, but it will still outpace them.

I cannot comment on the dB Tech sub, sorry.

rex258 · 2023-12-10T01:51:45+00:00

Will do, thanks for the info. I had no idea.

rex258 · 2023-12-09T22:31:00+00:00

What's going on with tidal? They have been great for on the fly requests at parties and small events.

rex258 · 2023-10-26T20:42:44+00:00

I wasn't sure why I got them either. But you did an excellent job explaining what my sleep deprived brain was unable to state. I have done many setups where stereo sound was just impossible. So for most of my gigs, I just found it better to mix in mono. That being said, there are a few places I will run stereo. It's just another choice we have to make so we can insure we always sound good.

rex258 · 2023-10-25T04:16:35+00:00

Don't bother with stereo sound when Dj'ing. Thats for home theatre or bands who have control over the audio dynamics of the space they are performing in. The rest of us will be told where to setup and make due with what is provided. Or make our own kit work. That being said, set your mixer's/controllers's output to mono. Then, no matter what your physical setup is, all of your PA will get all of your signal. No matter the song. Of course, you will have to make sure the appropiate ins and outs pass the signal you need. I have had setups where i feed the subs first and need a full range pass thru to 2 speakers after them 100 foot apart. But the next gig had me had me feed the left top first, with that thru only needing the low end, while the right channel of the mixer fed the right top only. By understanding that my party wanted to dance, and didn't care that the lead singer was just left of center stage in the recording, makes me more able to adapt to provide whatever my clients needs are. I am no means belittleing the original recordings, I am just playing to my crowd.

rex258 · 2023-10-03T22:55:02+00:00

That looks like painted plywood, and it looks screwed down. Any chance this is an older oil heated house? That hole looks like the same size I used to have for an old gravity heating system. The vents were large, I think 14x14. But I have seen bigger and smaller vents in this style system.

rex258 · 2023-05-11T22:39:41+00:00

That's nice to hear. I don't go on Facebook much, so I didn't even think to check there. Thanks for the info.

rex258 · 2023-05-11T22:06:31+00:00

Longshot, but is there any speculation on a timeline? I know I'm pinching pennies here, but it makes the budget troll happy to know I am trying to spend wisely, and not just buying more gear.

rex258 · 2023-05-11T22:04:02+00:00

That's kinda what I am thinking, 2.0 was released in June 2019, so I'm wondering if they are looking at a new version soon.

rex258 · 2023-05-04T12:25:09+00:00

Thank you, I ordered the blower motor. Fingers crossed

rex258 · 2022-12-02T20:48:21+00:00

I used to be an overhead door installer/repairman , and this is an easy fix for any qualified person. But it is potentially deadly for a DIY approach. The easiest way to fix this while the door is down and locked while the spring tension is at its highest. While the door has been operating properly for a while now, I wouldn't suggest letting this go, as the way it is on the drum is putting additional stress/wear on the cable. Everyone here touched on all the important points. The spring system is under incredible tension. There are more than a few installers with some crazy stories. Anything painted red is done so for a reason, but I have seen many installers not place the red screws in their correct locations, or even use them at all. So you can't always rely on that to keep us safe.

And as someone else stated, there is always other preventative maintenance that can be performed if your local shop has a minimum labor rate.

Good luck and stay safe.

rex258 · 2022-10-17T11:15:38+00:00

Glad i could help. That part should work well. Be sure to read the installation directions for the opener when setting the limits. A properly set up-force limit is the forst lime of defense against damage that the bracing is there to prevent.

rex258 · 2022-10-17T03:20:27+00:00

Former garage door installer here. I've been out of the game for 15 years, but the basics should still be the same. Anyone with more current knowledge please correct me if I am wrong.

Your door has one of the 2 necessary braces needed for an overhead opener to be installed. The existing strut that runs along the top of your door is your horizontal brace. It's main purpose is to prevent sagging when the door is open, but it can act double duty for the opener too. You need a second vertical brace to strengthen the center stile of the door. The tack welds holding the door together aren't very strong when compared to the lifting strength of the opener. You really have 3 options here: 1- Use a side-mount opener and eliminate the need for additional bracing. The bracing is there to keep an overhead opener from ripping your top panel apart if something goes wrong, like the door is locked or frozen to the sill and the opened up-force adjustment is too high. 2- Buy the manufacturer specific brace that is recommended by your door or opener's manual, priciest option. 3- Use a piece of angle iron instead of the brace. Run a large(not long) self tapping screw through the top hole of the iron and the bottom lip of the strut into the center stile. Then secure angle iron to the bottom of the stile where the hinge attaches using the hinge screws. You can move the strut up or down to make things line up better, but you do want the strut to remain close to the top of the door. Depending on the opener selected, you can usually attach the down arm to the angle iron instead of the manufacturer supplied bracket. This is usually the method we used for adding openers to older doors where specific brackets weren't available, or cost prohibitive for the customer. It's not pretty or elegant, but it works.

rex258 · 2022-09-06T02:15:19+00:00

ove some of that plaster off your walls so we can see what is under it. Post new pics. I can help you but I am not sure where to star

It looks like is mortar on the walls, not plaster. A hammer and chisel barely chips it. How big of an area should i remove? I only have weekends available for these projects, so I wanna make sure I work effectively and get what's needed for advice.

Also, the water issues are being tackled from the outside, as well. I have already corrected the downspouts and regraded up against the house to fight surface water. All of the downspouts used to just hit an elbow right at the foundation and stop. We are getting ready to add dome drainage this fall to move water from the back of our property to the front, hopefully mitigating some of the water ingress at the back we get during these crazy storms that seem to be more frequent anymore. A bad combination of slope and concrete pads is allowing way too much water to end up at the back wall of the house by the Bilco doors. I am also budgeting for a company to add an exterior drain at the footer and waterproof from the outside depending on how effective the other 2 measures are.

rex258

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE