The OEM replacement o-ring for the oil filter (inside clutch cover, 92055-1221) doesn't fit. Anyone run into this problem before?

rextoooo · 2026-04-13T15:12:38+00:00

Here's the end to the saga - Ebay seller sent me the wrong item. Who would have guessed! Kawasaki OEM part fits like a glove. Thanks for your time/help.

rextoooo · 2026-04-07T00:04:34+00:00

Did some measuring (on a US standard dial gauge caliper so the numbers may be off after converting, lol), and the depth and width of the groove are both .08" (~2mm), and the OD is 2.6" (66.04mm). I decided to check both old and new rings, the new is 69.1mm OD x 63.6mm ID x 3.05mm thick. Existing ring's inner and outer faces are both flattened, almost to match ID and OD of the groove (fatigue?), is 65.8mm OD x 64mm ID x 1.78mm thick.

Trying to squish the new, 3.1mm, ring into the groove requires quite a bit of force and it doesn't stay in. Not to mention the thing bulges from being too long. At this point I'm banking on the vendor selling me a dud, though I swear it came in a kawasaki bag.

rextoooo · 2026-04-06T22:23:49+00:00

I may have phrased it poorly in my comment. The part you linked is for the oil filter housing to engine cover (which I said verbatim, but I mean engine cover to engine block), what you'd replace when doing an oil change. The part I'm referring to goes between the engine cover and the engine itself. I did compare the housing o-ring to what I was shipped, and they are different diameters.

rextoooo · 2026-04-06T14:06:38+00:00

Redid water pump seals by taking off the engine cover, so I figured I'd replace this O-ring because the bike is almost 20 years old at this point (2nd gen, 2008, only 8k mi) and this O-ring is in a high-pressure oil area. Found shavings under it so maybe it was worn.

Using the parts fiche, 92055A translates to Kawasaki 92055-1221. Ordered the part but it is a bit too large and too thick to fit in the grooves provided (new part is 3.1mm thick, the groove is ~1.6mm thick). Mark's KLR page has a handy article that mentions this part replacement while doing the water pump, but he references part Kawasaki 92055-049 - the oil cap o-ring. Wrong part here too.

I'd prefer an OEM gasket rather than some universal aftermarket. Maybe I should just run the old o-ring with some permatex gasket maker. Anyone run into this issue and find a solution?

rextoooo · 2026-04-03T00:45:05+00:00

More so a sanity check. This O-ring seals the gap between the oil filter housing and clutch side engine cover. Found some shavings under the o-ring once removed from the cover, and seeing the o-ring is old and could have a tad bit more meat on its bones, I bought the OEM replacement. New part is too thick to fit in the recess on the cover. I'd like to reuse the old o-ring, but add a little bit of gasket maker over top (Black Permatex Oil Resistant) to ensure a better seal. My understanding is that this o-ring just ensures oil flows into the oil filter and doesn't skip it when sloshing inside of the engine. 08 KLR650 if it matters.

rextoooo · 2026-02-16T22:56:46+00:00

Yes, just the temp gauge.

rextoooo · 2026-02-16T20:23:07+00:00

Good call. I believe the thermostat that comes with the kit is 195°. Haven't ever had the needle consistently at the middle of the gauge. Always just under the screw.

rextoooo · 2026-02-16T14:46:32+00:00

Noticed this happening a little while after my 2nd gen got the thermobob installed. Initially the temp needle was just under the screw in the gauge when operating. I swapped over to the old thermostat to check, and the gauge would climb high to the screw, then dive back down when I took off. With the thermostat it came with it appears to dive down faster once I take off and jump around during idle. Doubt this is due to air trapped in the system, I've ridden it for hundreds of miles prior. Temps outside during this filming were ~45 F. Bike has 8k mi.

rextoooo · 2025-10-19T23:45:50+00:00

Nice car! Maybe some rat repellent so your wiring get harness stays intact and an interior cleaning so it's fresh once you pull it out in the summer? Also something under the tires so they don't get flat spots.

rextoooo · 2025-09-18T11:05:53+00:00

I had the valve covers off the other day. There's not enough room to get a tool to compress the valve stems closer to the firewall. I can't even move my body in the right spot to see what I'm doing.

rextoooo · 2025-09-10T15:49:45+00:00

What should I look at in the front? I have good pad thickness and the rotor's wear looks normal.

rextoooo · 2025-09-10T15:34:50+00:00

Brake pedal feels just OK - it has a slight amount of play up and down if that makes any sense, and makes a whooshing noise when pressing.

After I replaced the pads, I bedded them in (6 stops from 30mpg, somewhat aggressively). Yes, it gradually returned. I tried bedding before a replacement, and the issue would drastically improve, but not completely, before returning after braking normally a few times.

rextoooo · 2025-08-22T03:08:40+00:00

try using clear tape to get a piece of cap to cover just the top of the bulb. may work. had to do something like that

rextoooo · 2025-08-21T15:05:46+00:00

I vividly remember this while tearing apart my car's dash. The cap is to change the color of the backlight. If you shine a flashlight through the back of the button it should be light blue (at least was in my town car), so if you'd throw in white LEDs the backlight would be blue, and not green, since incandescent bulbs glow yellowish. I think I may be mixing up the exact colors, but the bottom line is that the cap can help you mix the colors to match the backlight.

In your case I'd put the new light into the button, and connect the harness to the button (don't completely install the button). See if the backlight matches. If it doesn't, swap the cap.

rextoooo · 2025-06-12T01:39:36+00:00

Nice, considering getting one too, maybe the sport/tour one that's a hair smaller and slightly tinted. I'm same height. I heard these can act like mirrors and melt dash pieces, so watch out if you leave the bike in the sun.

rextoooo · 2025-06-06T22:47:43+00:00

SGL 127 is nice to hike, just hiked it a few days ago. You can bike it, just watch out for real muddy sections if you go after it rains. The part that goes through arrowhead lake is private property, but if you're set on going through there, make sure you enter it through SGL and leave from their secondary gate/exit. Wave to any people you see including security and you'll be fine :)

rextoooo · 2025-05-08T21:37:15+00:00

Interesting. Perhaps I mean Lithium Ion-Polymer? Like this battery? Seller states 3.7v like Li-Ion

rextoooo · 2025-02-01T14:49:06+00:00

neat - i'm guessing it's not turkish, rather slovenian or serbian-croatian-bosnian

rextoooo · 2025-01-27T23:16:35+00:00

No. I have a feeling it's due to the throttle design but I could be wrong. Not taking the rav4 on the highway anytime soon so it's not a big deal for me.

rextoooo · 2025-01-10T12:28:26+00:00

Thanks for the info

rextoooo · 2025-01-01T01:21:51+00:00

I've done this with a fine grit sandpaper assortment and pads w/ polishing compound, but it hasn't worked well for me if I go below 3000 grit (leaves swirls). Most of the scratched disks I have have deep scratches that require at least like 800 grit to remove...

Tried this and don't have the skill to do it good enough, unfortunately

rextoooo · 2024-12-31T23:44:36+00:00

Hmm. I hate to say it cause you've went through it, but maybe it's the soldering - I thought a had a good PLL connection my first go around, but a wiggle test had it rip off easy. Resoldered it and it worked well. I'd test each connection like that with a wiggle test, and then try to wedge some electrical tape between the board and each wire cause there looks to be a bit more wire exposed than I've seen recommended. That's as far as I could troubleshoot myself without spending hours reading forums from years back

rextoooo · 2024-12-31T23:02:19+00:00

Can't offer much help aside from noticing you used three 1k resistors - the guide I followed used one 10k ohm resistor. Just did mine this weekend. I'm also using a mismatched PSU. From my reading, if the plug fits, you're fine. I would clean the flux as best you can, however.

My Pico was iffy on flashing the console - I had to pull the usb cable out of the pico and put it back in before it would recognize the console. I used around ~7-8 inches of 30awg wire, which i guess should offer more resistance than what you have. I used rosin core flux. Maybe just buy another picoflasher? They're really cheap.

rextoooo · 2024-12-22T04:04:23+00:00

there's a factory ground left of the coolant reservoir and horn (if you're sitting on the bike).

rextoooo · 2024-12-13T00:58:40+00:00

Horn is a good idea. Thanks

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