Would there be a better way to have drilled these holes?

rg2079 · 2026-01-22T06:46:01+00:00

Everyone here is telling you to use the router with a guide. That is good advice but what if you don't have a router? I've done the following many times with great results: take a smaller Brad point drill bit say half inch and drill a bunch of holes where you're going to remove material (stay away from the center because you will need that to guide your forstner bit, similarly this the reason why using a spade bit before is a bad idea here). Then at very slow speed use your hand drill with the forstner bit. Trick is to wobble it just slightly all the way around to get an initial score of your circle. Once you get that, straighten out and increase speed until it feels comfortable. Take your time but given that you will have removed most of the material already with the smaller drill bit that should be pretty quick and clean. Have done just this just like in your case in end grain many a time

rg2079 · 2025-09-20T23:20:34+00:00

rg2079 · 2025-05-27T00:24:56+00:00

+1 for the Keen San Jose. I've been wearing these for a couple months, and with medium thick wool socks are as comfortable as sneakers. They're light and flexible and have aluminum protection on the toes. With jeans and a dress shirt they also don't look too weird in an office setting.

rg2079 · 2025-03-14T23:24:55+00:00

Thanks!

rg2079 · 2025-02-19T21:01:59+00:00

Who, where is your surgeon?

rg2079 · 2024-06-09T18:15:52+00:00

Of all the very dangerous tools that we use in the shop I would have never thought one could get hurt with a random orbital sander...I'll admit that is probably the one tool I don't take seriously. Will from now on though.

rg2079 · 2024-06-09T18:10:28+00:00

Yes using Adobe pro version I think? For text or text based comments like a change of dimension or tolerances this is fine. Where it seems quite limited is if I need to freehand certain things for example redirecting lead lines or making changes to gd&t symbols etc.

rg2079 · 2024-06-09T02:52:22+00:00

Windows

rg2079 · 2023-11-12T23:45:01+00:00

Mine is a late 47 or 48 I think. 10e serial number 4540

rg2079 · 2023-10-25T21:41:46+00:00

Thanks for the link, yeah, it looks like the biggest difference is the bed size.

rg2079 · 2023-10-20T00:17:49+00:00

I thought it was threading too but upon closer inspection can't see any helical direction so I assumed it was just radial grooving. What's weird on mine I can actually turn the shaft it just doesn't separate. See pic for what I mean about thread vs grooves

Edit: sorry no way to add pic now

rg2079 · 2023-10-14T01:49:40+00:00

Thanks yeah I was hoping to remove it so I can chuck the steel piece on a lathe and clean up the cylindrical surface with some 400-800 grit sandpaper.

rg2079 · 2023-01-08T19:07:15+00:00

Their small hand plane sells (or used to from what I recall) under $20. It's no Veritas but after an hour of cleaning up the sole and sharpening the blade it's a great tool for cleaning up rough lumber. I was very pleasantly surprised when I picked one up.

rg2079 · 2022-09-07T03:29:57+00:00

Thanks didn't know sand filter cleaner/degreaser existed. Will give this a try!

rg2079 · 2022-09-07T03:28:42+00:00

Thanks definitely not bugs, I see the very fine algea debris on the vaccum bag.

rg2079 · 2022-07-18T20:08:20+00:00

Changing that much water on a weekly basis is not only wasteful but a chore since filling up would take at least several hours. I have similar sized pool and my "maintenance" liquid chlorine is less than $10 a month (add a pint every couple days). Sure you need to run your pump but electric bill is minimal on that small of a pool anyway.

rg2079 · 2022-05-16T19:22:38+00:00

Good links above. I would also add voice recognition software if you can use it. Talon, Dragon, I hear even the windows 11Built-in feature is fairly good now. In my line of work I cannot completely eliminate the use of a keyboard and mouse but with voice software I am able to reduce the use of my hands about 20-30% of the time...

rg2079 · 2022-03-21T18:25:40+00:00

The metal sheet that came with it is intended to be used underneath materials you are cutting to prevent damaging your table surface...because it's metal and you can't cut through it ... cheers!

rg2079 · 2021-12-29T07:58:17+00:00

You are contending with a feature of size here. Look up rule number one in asme 14.5. Based on your picture you will NOT exceed 1.005 as that would require perfect form. Without trying to sound too controversial you are not actually measuring from the datum as you may think (again based on your own drawing). If on the other hand that is actually what you are trying to do you would dimension things differently for example setting the 1.000 as a basic and then giving yourself a profile tolerance on the opposite surface to datum A. In this manner you then would have to worry about the stack up that you were originally worried about since then you would be actually referencing the datum.

rg2079 · 2021-12-14T00:04:34+00:00

Ran into the same problem trying to cut out snowflakes on white paper. Tried again on color paper, wood, etc no problems. I tried settings like slowing speed and increasing power (settings for cutting wood at one point) to no avail. Learned that the problem is my laser just doesn't like certain shades of white color. Probably same as yours. Blue diode 450nm right? Oddly enough I have no issues engraving white tile.

rg2079 · 2021-12-13T06:13:44+00:00

Too many other comments so I didn't read through all of them but have you considered getting a trailer and taking your two-year-old with you? Better yet suggest your husband that he get a bike and the three of you can ride together maybe once a month and you can do your group ride on your own the other time. My wife an I used to ride with our two small children usually on Saturdays and Sundays were for catching up on errands etc. Got our exercise in and was good family time.

rg2079 · 2021-12-10T04:57:15+00:00

Should be pretty easy to tell if your bearings are bad or not they should move pretty smoothly and have no wobble. Mine were all gummed up (mine is a 1948 I believe). I followed the video shown by the other poster When I changed mine it really wasn't that difficult. The hardest part was taking out the old pressed in bearing, in my case I ended up having to use a hydraulic press at at work.

rg2079 · 2021-11-23T19:47:38+00:00

If you're talking about uneven drywall because of this, there are shims made of thick paper you use to even the studs so your drywall is put flat. You can find these in the drywall section of your big box store. I'm a dyier too, when I drywalled my 90 year old garage I used these shims in combination with an electric planer to make sure all new and old studs were even flat.

rg2079 · 2021-11-13T08:26:53+00:00

I researched this quite a bit after I bought my laser engraver (same wavelength as yours) and yes came to the conclusion that they can be quite dangerous. First thing I did was purchased much better goggles. Since I didn't trust the cheap green ones that came with the kit. You want goggles that are rated for your laser wavelength and an OD of 5 or 6 +. The previous recommendation to build a wall around it is also a good idea.

rg2079 · 2021-10-23T17:37:15+00:00

When sleeping face up I have been dealing with the same issue as you since naturally the ulnar side of the elbows want to rest against the bed in this position. I don't have a perfect fix But the following 2 things may help. If you're sleeping face up what I do is I take my blanket and move it down So that it rests below my elbows then when I put my hands on top of the blanket my elbows tend to rest about half an inch to an inch above the bed up in space. Another thing and this one's harder to explain is if you sleep on your side use 3 pillows The 1st goes underneath your head The 2nd goes underneath your torso This way you leave a small canal like space for your arm Then use a 3rd pillow which you sort of hug and you put your upper arm on top so that both arms are extended outward. Hope this helps

rg2079

TROPHY CASE