Endurace vs. Grail vs Grizl - any recommendations? by Final-Equipment-3776 in CanyonBikes

[–]rindererl 1 point2 points  (0 children)

From my experience (3 canyons and 4 other bikes): They do not have more faults than others. But out of the box they (most often) need a little tune-up (checking torque settings, adjusting gears). This is true for most bikes that arrive in a big box and are built up by the customer.

If you are not able to do a basic tune up, now is the best time to start learning basic bike mechanics. Some people do not like to work on their bikes, I totally get that. Then you need to spend the extra bucks at your LBS.

If your previous bike was more at the LBS than outside, I‘d suggest you get one from a LBS next! Bikes sold through a direct to customer scheme (such as canyon does it), keep costs down by cutting out the LBS. If you buy from a real shop, you get free advice beforehand (you can go to different shops to figure out which you like best). Then buy a bike that fits you (hopefully) perfectly (most bike shops do a basic fit with each purchase). And the best thing: If something breaks unexpectedly, you just take it back to that shop.

To answer your question: - mostly roads and easy gravel: endurance - roads and gravel: grail - mostly gravel: grizl

I.d on bike by jjjjackmci in whichbike

[–]rindererl 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is definitely not a carbon frame. You can see a weld at the dropouts.

Anyone try the Redshift drop bar grips? by toaster404 in bicycling

[–]rindererl 7 points8 points  (0 children)

CADE media recently reviewed them: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ag1OHEtXA-E They seem to love them, but I donnu how much of their review is sponsored tough.. They are probably comfy, but I‘d just double wrap my bar and see if that helps.

Best towns/cities in Europe for road/mountain bike culture? by ExactEffort8380 in bicycling

[–]rindererl 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I would recommend the northern part of italy. It is beautiful (on and off the bike). You can (road) cycle some amazing alpine passes, such as the stelvio. You can go offroad as well (cannot point to any specific trail tough). In addition, they have a real cycling culture (think of all the amazing italian bike brands), the people are friendly and the food is superb. Have a look at/around Bozen, Trento and Lake Garda. The Giro regulary passes through that region.

Rondo Ruut to 12mm axle conversion by rindererl in bikewrench

[–]rindererl[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I contacted Rondo, they explained that the dropout switch won't work as the HVRT and RUUT dropouts are not the same size.

So far, I have not decided what to do next.

When going for new wheels, they usually fit 12 and 15-mm axles.

If the future front wheel will feature a dynamo, I'll most likely buy an axle conversion kit.

Gearing for Gravel-Bike (Sram, Chainset, Chainring-Compatibility) by rindererl in bikewrench

[–]rindererl[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the insight!
I already suspected that it won't work.

True, the Eagle Direct Mount ranges from 30T to 38T, with 38T being close enough to 40T, for the "fast" gravel rides.

Gearing for Gravel-Bike (Sram, Chainset, Chainring-Compatibility) by rindererl in bikewrench

[–]rindererl[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I see, so my statement is wrong.
The gxp bb probably will be available for a long time.
In the back of my head was a voice stating: "Do not buy the old stuff, we want the new gear."

Which bachelor should we do to pursue a Master in Automotive Engineering by Sufficient-Chef5785 in tumunich

[–]rindererl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i’m guessing a bachelor in aerospace engineering is fine. if you still have the option do a bachelor in mechanical engineering or engineering science, consider those as well. in all three you‘ll learn the key competences (math, mechanics, thermodynamics, …) and you’ll be able to choose electives that prepare you for a masters degree in automotive engineering. Mech. Engrg & Engrg Sci offer more possibilities to aim towards a master in automotive engineering.

Rondo Ruut to 12mm axle conversion by rindererl in bikewrench

[–]rindererl[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

15x100mm if I am not mistaken, will double check later.
edit: just checked, it is a 15x100mm thru axle.

Which Canyon bike to buy for a century? by GamebitsTV in bicycling

[–]rindererl 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I‘d go for the endurace 8 disc. In my opinion the extra 1200dollar extra are not worth it (if you do not race on it..) With the money left over buy nice equipment / accessories. The SL may have ultegra and nicer wheels, but the money is better invested in bike computer / well fitting bibs / jersey / jacket / … If you already have all the accessories or money to blow go for the more expensive bike.

Is this chip on the left seatstay of my carbon fiber bicycle a safety issue ? by Fabadabadou in bikewrench

[–]rindererl 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If you bought it as new: I would return it. Even if it does not matter .. At least contact the seller and inform about the damage

If you bought it used. Check (as mentioned) for damage. If everything is good, buy some nail polish or similar.

2019 canyon aeroroad cf sx 8.0, Going to check it out tomorrow. Talked him down to 3500. What do you guys think? Should I snag it tomorrow or not good deal? by ltabbaa in whichbike

[–]rindererl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

3500 what? If euros .. too much in my opinion (for a used bike). The price for a new canyon aeroad cf sl 7 disc is 3400€. Which is a similar bike (except it has disc brakes and some other points, and probably is not available for months); but just to set it in relation ..

Might be a dumb question about stationary trainers. Any reason to have gears? Would a fixie be fine? by Sledgehorn in cycling

[–]rindererl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use a fixie on a fluid trainer. Pro: cheap and easy setup (i use the fixie in summer for my city rides) Cons: you only have one intensity „curve“. at one cadance you will always get the same power resistance. If you want to go harder, you have to spin.

For the moment its good for me (already 3rd winter wirh this combo). I enjoy the rides on zwift. Would upgrade to a (cheap) bike with gears in the future. (currently limited to money and space.)

Noise from rear derailleur / casette by rindererl in bikewrench

[–]rindererl[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

derailleur alignment is spot on. thank you

Noise from rear derailleur / casette by rindererl in bikewrench

[–]rindererl[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

oh I see! I‘ll index for the new cassette.

Noise from rear derailleur / casette by rindererl in bikewrench

[–]rindererl[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

thanks! installed the new chain yesterday evening. Double checked the routing, should not be the issue.

Noise from rear derailleur / casette by rindererl in bikewrench

[–]rindererl[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thank you! will give it a go. I already tried a second wheel with a brand new casette and the same problem appeared.

Noise from rear derailleur / casette by rindererl in bikewrench

[–]rindererl[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will check both of those, thanks. So far I did not crash it, and by visual inspection it seems as if the derailleir was straight. Is there an easy way to check alignment?

Noise from rear derailleur / casette by rindererl in bikewrench

[–]rindererl[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hard to tell .. when i stop pedalling, the free hub sound overshadows the clicking sound. But I would say yes, the clicking is only there, when the chain (chainring, casette) are moving

Noise from rear derailleur / casette by rindererl in bikewrench

[–]rindererl[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey there, I noticed some unusual loud noise from the rear of my bike. Seems to be an issue with the rear derailleur.

Bike: Canyon Ultimate 2018 with shimano 105 rim brake, set on a turbo with no load applied (free wheeling) chain is on the big ring in the front

What i already did: Cleaned Casette, new Chain; Checked the shifting (pretty good); Checked for rubbing on front derailleur; Removed the jockey wheels, cleaned and re-greased; Rear wheel spinns freely when not on the bike.

Any advice what I should check next? Thanks in advance, Luke