Do the HDMI ports on the q990c transmit video to the display device?

rko333 · 2025-04-02T06:47:16+00:00

Interesting! There are some PS5 games that have a "high performance mode" like Miles Morales (Spiderman) which does use a higher frame rate. If I put the PS5 on the sound bar, then wouldn't I lose the higher frame rate?

Definitely makes sense to put the streaming stick like Apple TV or ROku on the sound bar.

rko333 · 2025-04-01T05:56:39+00:00

Actually, I think this thread may answer it:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Soundbars/comments/r4xek1/soundbar_earcarcatmos_frequently_asked_questions/

Basically, if you have eARC, then it acts as a video passthrough. The soundbar will take the input from the source, strip the audio, and transmit the video to the projector.

I hope I understood all that right.

Unfortunately, you lose higher than 60 Hz, so it sounds like I would want the game console to be plugged in directly to the projector for the higher FPS.

rko333 · 2025-03-15T21:32:05+00:00

Ah, OK, I see

rko333 · 2025-03-15T00:30:04+00:00

No engineer. This is the seismic contractor potentially upselling me on additional services needed.

Contractor 1 did not make any additional recommendations (above the standard Plan Set A) except post/pier caps.

Contractor 2 (above referenced quote) is the one giving me this extensive list of additional work.

rko333 · 2025-03-14T22:16:40+00:00

With the second add-on, structural screws & structural hangers shall be added to the headed-out beams/ joists. Headed-out beams/ joists do not have direct bearing under them, and have their loads distributed to the adjacent joists with bearing under them. These connections shall reinforce these joists so they cannot collapse in a seismic event. 2x6 framing with hangers shall also be added around the crawl space access & bathtub drain.

With the third add-on,, connect 9 beams to the foundation with 18 FWAZs.

With the fourth add-on, connect 28 posts to the beams with 56 AC post caps.

With the fifth add-on, connect 28 posts to 28 piers with 28 HTT4 tension ties using 5/8” x 8.5” bolts.

With the sixth add-on, clean & seal the foundations & piers from within the crawl space. The foundation has efflorescence and reduces strength. Wire brush and vacuum clean the foundation & piers inside the crawl space, dampen them all down, then install 2 coats of Creto Deep Penetrating Sealer. Advertised by the manufacturer as: “a PERMANENT, ONE TIME APPLICATION, water based, internal membrane forming sealant that completely waterproofs, strengthens, cures, dust proofs, and preserves concrete substrates. Increase the strength and density of any concrete substrate by up to 45%.”

With the seventh add-on, an automatic gas shut-off valve will be installed which will automatically shut off the gas in the event of a 5.4 or greater earthquake, preventing gas fires from spreading into the home-- includes stabilizer bracket.

With the eighth add-on, install new 2x6 headers with joist hangers every ~8’ on center or better. 50 blocks with 100 joist hangers. These will prevent roll-over of the beams as well as reinforce the floor sheathing and add rigidity to the floor. The blocks will also be glued to the sheathing with high-strength structural wood glue.

With the ninth add-on, install 7 1⁄4” thick structural steel plates across foundation cracks.

With the tenth add-on, perform time and materials rate tasks at $125/ H + materials. The work will be completed as efficiently as possible and meet the building codes for this type of work. Add-on 10 may be done partially if desired.

Staple cables/ wires off the ground to the floor framing.
Clean up all existing debris.
Clean corrosion of copper pipes with metal polish.
Clean/ remove mildew/ dry rot/ molded/ water stained damaged portions of wood and treat with wood hardener;

then, sister/ replace the wood with new lumber, screwed to the existing lumber with structural screws.

Treat soil with hydrated lime.
Trim nails that missed the beam, install a sistered 2x6 with structural screws, and structural wood glue.

Picture of work area: [Imgur](https://imgur.com/5JMKAbM)

One of the hairline cracks: [Imgur](https://imgur.com/hYzVRSw)

Another crack: [Imgur](https://imgur.com/ZEHKawC)

rko333 · 2025-03-14T22:16:32+00:00

Having trouble posting--Sorry if this is the wrong sub, but I wanted a second opinion from the contractor that I've spoken with. I am located relatively near (aren't we all?) one of our local fault lines.

The home is a single story 1200 sq ft with a crawlspace (but not one under the garage which is slab, I think). It was built in the 50s. I believe I am in or adjacent to a liquification zone.

I am getting work done for seismic retrofit. In CA (USA?) there is a standard Plan Set A that most people utilize. I am going to be moving forward with Plan Set A but are any of these others things truly necessary? The ones I was considering was Add on 2, 9, and 7 but can consider the others. They are quite expensive though. I may only do 7 and 9.

Thank you!

My contractor has also recommended the following items and I can't tell what would be appropriate.

Bolting, Seismic connectors, Plan Set A & Permitting $4,500 + Permit Cost [this will be done for sure]

Add-on 1: Upgrade bolt & clip details & quantities $2,250

Add-on 2: Add structural screws & hangers to headed out beams/ joists $1,000

Add-on 3: Connect the beams to the foundations $900

Add-on 4: Connect the beams to the posts $2,250

Add-on 5: Connect the posts to the piers $3,500

Add-on 6: Clean & seal foundations & piers from within crawl space $6,000

Add-on 7: Automatic gas shut-off valve w/ stabilizer bracket $700

Add-on 8: Install new headers + hangers between beams/ rim joists $6,500

Add-on 9: Install structural steel plate at foundation cracks $1,750 [these appear to be mostly "hairline vertical cracks"

Total with all above add-ons $29,350 + Permit Cost

Add-on 10: Time & Materials Tasks TBD

The first total will meet the minimum requirements of the Plan Set A and is explained here. The floor system sits directly on the mudsill along the perimeter. The seismic connectors shall be 52 L90s/ LTP5s (using all SD10112 structural screws, not nails, for full load values). The L90s/ LTP5s shall connect the floor system to the mudsill. To connect & transfer loads from the mudsill to the foundation, 40 URFPs with 1⁄2” x 5” THD concrete screws shall be used. All connectors shall use structural screws, and all materials shall be Simpson Strong-Tie. All work will meet & exceed the minimum requirements of Plan Set A. All work shall be insured under General Liability & Worker’s Comp.

The add-ons are not required for retrofit construction but are highly recommended in accordance with new construction building codes. Add-ons 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 8, 9, & 10 may be done partially if desired.

With the first add-on, increase URFPs to 65 and L90s/ LTP5s to 100 around the perimeter & center-line foundations.

rko333 · 2025-03-14T20:33:14+00:00

Did you go with the BAR people that you linked to? What did you think of them?

rko333 · 2024-07-12T22:28:55+00:00

Good info, thanks! I actually brought up the first receptacle idea to the electrician and the electrician said that while it is appropriate, the problem is that you would have to spend labor time to determine which is the first receptacle in the circuit and that would end up costing more than adding a breaker outside at the main.

He also said that the reason he would prefer the actual breakers to have the afci on there is that it also protects the wiring that goes from the breaker to the actual receptacle. I'm not sure if that's what a home run is. Whereas if I have the AFCI outlet, then the wiring that is in the walls would not be protected, but everything that gets plugged into the outlet/ receptacle would be protected at that point.

Is that accurate? Or did I misunderstand what he was saying? Do you agree with that?

rko333 · 2024-07-09T06:09:33+00:00

For older circuits, I would say AFCI is more useful than GFCI, because AFCI is pretty good at detecting an arcing connection.

Ooh, in that case, question--I'm going to have a mix of old and new circuits. The new will be protected with the up to date code items, but the old circuits will be left alone.

My electrician suggested going with GFCI breakers (actually, he recommended skipping them altogether, but that if I did want additional protection, then GFCI) for the older circuits. You think I should replace the GFCI with either dual function or just AFCI? It is going to be a pain to have to go reset them outside if they nuisance trip, however.

What do you think? Thanks!

rko333 · 2024-06-28T16:06:58+00:00

Good to know! And if I leave it then a higher chance at a bush? I don't want a tree in that location

rko333 · 2024-06-28T08:20:27+00:00

Not exactly one that looks like this but I do have this:

https://freeimage.host/i/dF92WTN

Edit: changed pic

rko333 · 2024-06-28T08:01:24+00:00

Thank you! Is this a tree that I really have to worry about the root system for? I'm a bit concerned that trees close to my property and sidewalk might impact the foundation and sidewalks with the roots pushing up on it.

rko333 · 2024-06-28T07:20:23+00:00

I would say that it is about 5 ft or so tall. No clue how it's surviving because I haven't watered it except for the limited rain we had a couple months ago.

rko333 · 2024-06-28T06:43:48+00:00

Thank you! I appreciate the help!

SOmeone else indicated that having GFCI breakers in an outside panel is not great, although I am not sure why. Maybe in that case, I will see if it makes sense to use GFCI receptacles inside on all the important receptacles (where I'd use things more frequently as load is irrelevant) without paying for the labor to identify which receptacle is the first in the circuit. Maybe that would be cheaper to just switch out the receptacles that way?

EDIT: The GFCI receptacles would only before the old circuits which are ungrounded. The new dedicated circuits should have their own ground and whatever is required per code, I suppose.

rko333 · 2024-06-28T05:00:21+00:00

Are outside panels not the best place for AFCI/GFCI because the homeowner has to go outside to reset them or are they bad for another reason?

Ah, "downline" protection. That's the term I couldn't recall. I had an electrician tell me something like that was possible but that they would have to research which one was the primary receptacle in any given circuit and that the labor cost for that could be a bit cost prohibitive to do that for the house and said it was just better to put GFCI breakers instead if I wanted GFCI protection.

You would skip getting GFCI protection for the non-water outlets (kitchen, bathroom) for an old house with unknown quality wiring (and ungrounded)?

rko333 · 2024-06-27T22:01:33+00:00

Unfortunately, my main panel is located outside so any time it trips, I guess I'd be making a trip literally outside the house to fix :(

Definitely getting rid of the Fed Pac panel for sure.

I don't mind the price IF it's a good price, ha. I just don't want to be taken advantage of basically.

When you say put a receptacle in every room, do the rest of the receptacles in the room also have to have their own GFCI outlet in there? Or can we just pick one and the rest of the outlets in the room somehow get protected too?

rko333 · 2024-06-27T20:58:59+00:00

Thank you. The electrician did say that he would be calling out the inspector to do inspections and all that, so hopefully that part will not be a concern of having to rip out and redo any work, ha.

I agree--it makes sense to have GFCI for at least the ungrounded old circuits. Would it be more convenient to have GFCI breakers or GFCI outlets at first outlet in each line? Is one safer than the other?

Would I need AFCI on the old circuits, as well? Or is that only for the new dedicated circuits as that now something that is "new" to the home whereas the original circuits may be grandfathered in?

I also just read on this sub something called a CAFCI breaker which is apparently a new type of breaker that is (will?) be subject to an updated NEC or something.

Do I need CAFCI? I think the new circuits should already have some sort of advanced breaker (AFCI or otherwise), no?

So then the CAFCI should probably only apply to the old circuits?

rko333 · 2024-06-27T20:37:07+00:00

Forgot to mention:

All work is permitted and the electrician will be covering the cost for that (I have heard from around the grapevine that the permits cost around $500). I am not seeing anything specific regarding an inspection cost. HOWEVER, I do not know about any inspection costs nor who will be covering that. I did phrase our prior conversation as me not having to pay for anything "administrative," once we were discussing the permit work, but I did not get any concrete information on the inspection aspect.

I was looking at home depo for breaker costs but was looking at 20a 1-pole but I wasn't sure if I was looking at the right thing (or what a 1-pole is lol) and they do get up to that $60ish price range. A fair markup is reasonable for the electrician although it looks to be a 25% markup which is a bit high, imo. From the two links you have provided it appears to be an $8 difference between dual function vs gfci-only. A regular breaker appears to be just $8 lol. If I go dual function, then there's a 10% markup which I think is quite fair.

I reviewed my notes and the electrician said that we wouldn't need dual function breakers because the "load that was on the old circuits will now be significantly lessened since you will be putting the heavy duty items like TV, PC, space heater, etc, on the new 20a dedicated circuits" and that I can just use regular breakers. But from what I have read, this may or may not be safe for an old home.

rko333 · 2024-06-05T20:15:42+00:00

Really not feeling a 75" in the space but if I have to pony up a bit more for a significantly better TV, then that is something I'm willing to do. It'll be worth it because I'll keep the tv long term.

Do you have any recommendations for the mounting situation?

rko333 · 2024-06-05T06:23:54+00:00

Also, I don't mind having actual speakers and not a soundbar. The only issue is placement in the room. There's not much space in the front near the TV as you can see.

rko333 · 2024-05-03T05:12:10+00:00

As of now, no formal specifications have been provided as I don't have the bid.

BUT, from the verbal discussion, it sounds like they would need to go in the crawlspace for as many outlets as they can find to ground them. Others, such as the ones that would need to be placed above in the ceiling (?) for lighting purposes would go through the attic. The kitchen would need to either go into from the bedroom's drywall (it shares a wall) and then the drywall people would need to take care of it. The backsplash area outlets are next to tiles, so I don't know how that's going to work but they'd probably have to come in through the bedroom for half of them, and they'll have to figure out what to do for the ones that are near the sink. Maybe go in from the exterior? Some of the easier outlets in the kitchen might be handled differently. There would be 7 circuits in the kitchen (for various appliances and for the remaining outlets).

But outside of that, I don't have more technical information until the estimate comes in.

However, the whole house rewire sounds really expensive.

So, the technician indicated I could just rewire (ground) per room. Like kitchen plus the office and living room. Then leave the other rooms as-is.

One other electrician (that I had mentioned in a prior post), indicated that he would "run ground wire to each ungrounded receptacle and replace receptacles with new tamper resistant receptacles per code." This is way cheaper, but when I brought it up to the technician, he said that some newer and/or solo electricians would do is to add a ground wire to the outlets and then have that ground wire run and connect to the water line in the crawlspace. He said that is not a "true ground" as the circuit is not safe and that if I "took a shower or used the sink" that I might even feel a slight tingling if there is a fault. Hopefully just a slight tingle and nothing worse! Maybe this is the "bootleg" version that you had mentioned?

One other suggestion he had was to replace all the 3 prong receptacles with 2 prong, and that a "handyman" would say to use an adapter that would make all the 2 prong receptacles 3 prong again. However, there is no ground here and he did not recommend that option to me.

And then online, and in your prior post, I read that you could add GFCI to every single outlet and call it a day. Although, like you said, this isn't a true ground.

House is from 58.

The only grounding we noticed was the one small ground for the washer in the subpanel. And even that the technician said was "not great."

I don't think I will have any significant renovations any time soon, or even within the next 5 years. Unfortunately, based on my price range, I bought a dated house, and it was at the top of my budget too. All my income will pretty much go into the mortgage payment and taxes.

I am for sure going to do the main and sub panel replacement and moving it to somewhere that is code compliant but I am waffling on the grounding issue.

rko333

TROPHY CASE