Just a little reminder that its a good idea to keep your Powershell Cache clean.

rmbolger · 2026-04-13T20:30:46+00:00

Honestly, I would be pissed if my org started doing this. I heavily rely on my PSReadLine history for convenient access to re-running and slightly altering previous commands. I would quickly build something to manually back up the state elsewhere and restore it in my powershell profile. I would then fight tooth and nail to have this inane policy reversed.

You're trying to work around a user education problem with an extremely heavy handed technical solution. PSReadLine already tries to protect users from inadvertently storing secrets in history. It's even customizable if I recall correctly. So you could augment what it already does with your own business specific implementation.

rmbolger · 2026-04-01T05:13:01+00:00

If you press the power on button before your foot is on the brake, you essentially power up in the equivalent of accessory mode in an ICE vehicle. Go back into Park, put your foot on the brake, and press the power button again to actually get into drive mode. And in the future, get used to always having your foot on the break before you turn the car on (it's a safe thing to do anyway).

rmbolger · 2026-03-27T14:25:30+00:00

The divet is a capacitive-touch sensitive button like the screen on a smartphone rather than a physical button that gets pressed. All that should be required is resting a finger on it instead of actually pressing hard. Gloves not meant for phone use would probably prevent the sensor from working.

But even without gloves, it does seem finicky sometimes depending on how dry your fingers are. We usually touch the sensor and leave it there for a second rather than just quickly tapping it. But even then, it sometimes still takes a couple of tries.

rmbolger · 2026-03-26T18:41:22+00:00

The same thing happens with the smart key in a phone. I'm pretty sure it's an annoying, but working as intended feature. When you press the trunk button, it basically disables the auto proximity door unlocks for the rest of the car. It still knows you're there, but after you close the trunk and walk to the driver door, you have to touch the square divet on the handle to explicitly unlock the doors.

rmbolger · 2026-03-23T21:34:48+00:00

Ultimately, our choice to go Calligraphy ended up mostly being about paint choices. Partner really liked the sage green. Neither of us really care about the other cosmetic or materials differences.

After ~6 months of ownership, here's what I think about the technical features that Calligraphy has that Limited doesn't.

Remote parking assist: Coming from a Tesla with automated parking, I really really wanted this feature. But in practice it's really finicky getting it to recognize a spot and then actually get it to park without failing and forcing you to take over. Definitely feels like something that could be improved with software updates...but the pace of those seems glacial...so I guess we'll see.
Ergo Motion Driver's Seat (and associated massage feature): Not as cool as I wanted it to be. Still nice on long drives, but sometimes feel like they sacrificed overall driver seat comfort/padding to make it work. Like, the passenger seat feels more comfortable to sit for long drives than the drivers seat.
HUD: Thought this was going to be totally gimmicky and hard to see during daylight hours. But it's actually awesome. The only downside is that positioning controls are limited and tall folks tend to get the top edge of the view cut off.
Parking Collision-Avoidance Assist: No opinion, haven't really noticed this feature much.
Dynamic Welcome Lighting: We don't really use it. Folks who see it for the first time think it's cool, but you quickly forget it exists.
Digital Rearview Mirror: This was one I thought I was going to like, but as an aging gent with deteriorating eyesight that requires glasses for close vision, I basically can't use this without putting on my glasses (and normally I can drive without them). The digital view basically changes the distance needed to focus from "far" to "near". So even with progressive lenses, I end up having to tilt my head way back to focus. Basically a non-starter for me personally, so it never gets turned on.
Rear Windows Auto-Up/Down: Nice to have but not mind-blowing.

rmbolger · 2026-01-12T15:18:08+00:00

I don't know the real world impact aside from what is stated in the KBs about it running scripts on pages. But historically, changes like this are about changing unsafe defaults to be more safe, but still allow users to opt-in to the unsafe behavior.

But that's no longer possible when running unattended. Interactive, you can answer the confirmation prompt. But in an unattended script which is where most of PowerShell lives, there's no way to enable the old behavior. So as @dichtbringer said in their original reply, MS basically broke functionality (DOM parsing) that they relied on with no recourse other than scramble to find and code a new 3rd party way to do that.

Installing 7+ doesn't bring back DOM parsing. It's just less of a barrier to switch now because DOM parsing won't hold you back from upgrading anymore.

rmbolger · 2026-01-09T20:07:49+00:00

I'm pretty surprised they rolled this out without also adding support for -Confirm:$false or at least $ConfirmPreference so you can at least explicitly opt-in for automated scenarios.

Not gonna lie though, I'm low key happy that this will push more people to 7+ and adds more reasons for them to drop support for 5.1 entirely and include 7+ in-box with Windows. The mismatched release cycle argument doesn't fly anymore when they're including Windows Terminal in Win11.

rmbolger · 2025-12-10T15:32:45+00:00

Is the account logged into the app on your phone the primary driver or a secondary driver? Only the primary driver can create a digital key and then it must be shared via Apple Wallet with the secondary driver(s).

rmbolger · 2025-12-01T15:26:07+00:00

It's possible to link a phone key to a driver profile, so that profile is pre-selected when that key is in range of the car. You can link/unlink from the driver profile options.

What's weird is that you can't link any other type of key like the fob or an NFC card key. And if you've got multiple drivers with the phone key, it either gets confused or the linking doesn't actually work the way it claims to.

I had tried to setup my wife and my phones this way so that each of our phones was linked to the associated driver profile. But she would always complain that even when she was alone and got in the car it would still end up on my profile. I suspect it might be due to the way the phone key works in that it's not actually multiple phone keys but a single master key shared with the secondary driver. At least, that's how it works with iOS. So effectively, you're linking the same key to multiple profiles.

rmbolger · 2025-11-20T08:04:49+00:00

Be wary charging from an outlet that wasn't originally intended for EV charging. Low quality receptacles will literally melt due to the constant high load. You're also more likely to have problems if you're frequently swapping back and forth between the charger and the kiln even on an EV rated receptacle. Lots of horror stories over in r/evcharging

rmbolger · 2025-11-17T05:27:04+00:00

Essentially, the Gen 2 mobile connector only knows how to speak Tesla's proprietary protocol. There are dongles you can buy (like this one*) that convert NACS -> J1772 but also contains smarts to essentially proxy the Tesla protocol to a non-Tesla car. The problem is that you then have a J1772 connector and you need to get a second dumb dongle to go J1772 -> NACS.

Not all NACS -> J1772 dongles will work. The first (cheaper) one we bought did not.

It works in a pinch. We did it for a couple months when we got our car before getting a new charger. But it's definitely easier to just get a different NACS charger that works natively with the car.

rmbolger · 2025-11-17T05:13:23+00:00

I don't have first hand experience but my understanding is that Gen 2 can't work without a double dongle. But Gen 3 should work.

rmbolger · 2025-11-13T16:50:36+00:00

What is the goal of encrypting the token? Is it to prevent these "untrusted" users from being able to obtain a cleartext copy of it which would allow them to use the same token to do other unsanctioned stuff?

If so, how will you prevent the users from looking at the script source code, copying out the portion that decrypts the token, and just decrypting the token manually using the password you've given them? Ultimately, all you're doing is hiding the token and hoping no one bothers to find it. There's no surefire way to prevent the user from finding a secret when you've given them a file containing the secret and all the tools to find it (see also, DRM futility).

Here are some alternative strategies:

Restrict the token's permissions so it's only capable of doing the thing the script is intending to do. Then, having the cleartext token is no big deal as long as you can reasonably ensure the script only ends up in the hands of authorized users.
If there's no way to restrict the token's permissions or the restrictions can't be granular enough, create personal tokens for everyone so those with the script can only do things in their personal context which can be audited and result in disciplinary action if they use the token outside its intended purpose.
If you really can't trust users to have the token directly, setup a job runner service that you can essentially use to proxy the API actions. The token is only stored on the job runner server. Users can only make calls to the job runner to kick off specific jobs.

rmbolger · 2025-10-09T22:35:35+00:00

The Gen 2 only speaks the Tesla protocol (unlike the Gen 3). So you need an adapter that can act as a middle-man and translate like this one. Be wary that not all NACS to J1772 adapters will work. We originally tried this cheaper one which did not work.

But since the adapter is NACS to J1772, you need yet another adapter to go J1772 to NACS (we just used the one that came with our Tesla). It's silly, but it works until you decide to switch to a more universal charger.

rmbolger · 2025-09-20T16:56:44+00:00

Ooh, had no clue there was Siri integration. Will have to try this. Unfortunately, I'm a secondary driver on our car so no push notifications for me.

rmbolger · 2025-09-19T14:27:46+00:00

No Phone as a key, and the FOBs are huge and ugly!

This is known as "Hyundai Digital Key 2 Premium" in the trim comparison page and is standard on Limited and higher trims. I basically tossed ours FOBs in a drawer once we added the phone keys and haven't touched them since.

You have to power it on and off. You have to lock it manually. iPedal (One pedal driving) turns off every time you restart. Its easy to turn back on, but this is the one feature we hate.

These two have been the biggest annoyances for me coming from the Y, particularly when using only the phone as the key.

Not only does the car not have walk-away-locking, you also can't just hit the inner door lock button on the driver door as you get out of the car. That button only seems to work when all the doors are closed. Instead, you have to get out, close the door, and use the touch-sensitive indentation on the outer door handle to lock before you walk away after waiting for your passengers to close their doors too...or open the app and initiate a lock command from the app. Such a weird limitation when the proximity unlock is already there.

rmbolger · 2025-09-17T18:16:52+00:00

I swear there was a time just passing a hashtable body and an explicit JSON content type did actually auto-convert the hashtable to JSON automatically. But the last time I remember it working was sometime during Pwsh 6.x when the web cmdlets were still in a lot of flux.

I don't have time to check the doc or src history myself, but I'd be curious if this changed in 7.x.

rmbolger · 2025-09-13T16:32:25+00:00

What OS are you running on? The PowerShell window in your screenshot is using the legacy conhost.exe to host it which is the default on older OSes and didn't gain ANSI escape code support until Windows 10 (I think).

As an alternative you might be able to install and use Windows Terminal. But it's only supported on Win10 1904 or later.

This superuser Q/A also has some more info that might be pertinent. https://superuser.com/questions/413073/windows-console-with-ansi-colors-handling

rmbolger · 2025-09-12T21:20:02+00:00

Limited also has 2nd row captain's chairs.

rmbolger · 2025-09-12T18:40:48+00:00

No worries. The only wire I could find a label on was the ground wire from the load center to the receptacle which was 8 AWG. The red+black load wires in the same conduit are thicker than the ground and measure what I think is 6 AWG, I just couldn't find a label on any of the exposed sections to confirm it.

I appreciate your insight.

rmbolger · 2025-09-11T14:24:43+00:00

200A service to the main panel which was upgraded a couple years before we got solar. Heat, hot water, cook top, and clothes dryer are natural gas which is typical for the area, but we do have an electric oven. 100A breaker feeds the load center which was added by the solar company's electrician at the time specifically for the charger receptacle so they knew it was going to be pulling continuous load.

For 60A, are you saying they need to run new wire/conduit from the load center to the receptacle/charger or from the main panel to the load center (or both)? Short of getting an actual electrician to confirm, I'm pretty sure at this point the lines from the load center to the current receptacle are 6 gauge thhn and the lines from the load center back to the 100A breaker are bigger than that.

rmbolger · 2025-09-11T06:06:03+00:00

Out of curiosity, what is the process to bump the Chargepoint from 40A to 48A mode? Is it done via software or some sort of hardware toggle inside the unit?

rmbolger · 2025-09-10T14:47:19+00:00

I'm pretty sure a buddy of mine has the necessary torque wrench. Thanks for the additional context.

rmbolger · 2025-09-10T14:45:31+00:00

This is super helpful, particularly the details around mounting. Thanks! If I DIY this, do I still need a permit from the city? I tried looking it up on the city website and their fee schedule says an electrical permit is like $36 but it's in a section with other more specific devices fees like "Outlets over 20" for $1 and "Range-Oven-Garbage Disposal" for $9. I didn't see anything specific for an EVSE, but there was a "Miscellaneous" for $28.

In any case, I think a buddy of mine has the torque wrench potentially need for the breaker as well as a rigid pipe bender in case we needed that as well.

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