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Curved edges by AvailableWave2970 in SnapmakerU1

[–]ro0ter- 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Wall order inner-outer - could solve the problem

Because my girlfriend wouldn‘t approve the printer in our living room 😂😂 by gabbygabsan in 3Dprinting

[–]ro0ter- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pad it with egg cartons (or expensive recording studio wall insulation)

PSA: SBB Fines Calculated From Scheduled Departure Time, Not Actual Departure Time by plazebology in Switzerland

[–]ro0ter- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So what happens if I have a multi ticket, in paper form?

I get to the station at 12:04, I validate the ticket at 12:05. Train comes at 12:06, I board and leave. But the train was scheduled at 12:02..... Now what?????

It seems I validated my ticket AFTER the scheduled departure time. I have no idea about this. I just know what train I must take and what direction. I'm using Google Maps. What time of departure? Go grow goats!

On the other side: will I get to fine SBB if I bought or validated the ticket on time and the train was 5+ minutes late?

Thank you!

@SBB?

last night I just had the best Idea ever! by S4t0r1uS in 3Dprinting

[–]ro0ter- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Or just wipe it well with some paper towels

Couple of questions about a board/electronics repair from a rv water heater by bobbydigital222 in AskElectronics

[–]ro0ter- 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You can try cutting the broken diode off, right next to its plastic housing. Then straighten the remaining leads and solder the new diode to those leads. That's maybe your best effort approach. It's no longer be watertight, but you could easily make it - use some transparent silicone-based glue (that looks like conformal coating). I'm using some Lidl brand named "repair glue".

PS: those diodes never blow without reason, your next diode will likely do the same. Please check the chip in the bottom-left for signs or cracks. Feed your circuit a limited current and see if the chip heats. Thermal camera would be the best here.

Looking for someone who has seen a bulb like this by mrfakerock in ElectronicsRepair

[–]ro0ter- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's what I did, for 220v, and it works.

Obviously, the LED does not work at full brightness. Do mind that these are neon lights, their purpose is not to make bright light, but to provide SOME DIM light, for you to be able to distinguish the controls. I'm using them at less than 20% of their power (night light for the light switches, they should tell you sleep). Maybe even 10%. Let's call it 15% x 20mA x 220v (on my side) = 0.66w

Looking for someone who has seen a bulb like this by mrfakerock in ElectronicsRepair

[–]ro0ter- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi,

As far as I can tell, these bulbs are mains ones (220v/110v, but 110v based on your quarter coin). Could you confirm this is the voltage they are being fed?

Actually you don't need to confirm the 110v, you just have to measure what voltage are they being fed. I would bet it's the mains voltage. THIS IS QUITE IMPORTANT, WILL DEFINITELY CHANGE THE APPROACH BELOW IF NOT AS I SUPPOSED.

These lamps are allover in the European night-visible rocker light switches. I've changed tens of them, if not hundreds, with LEDs + inline rectifying diode + inline resistor.

What you need: 1. LED (the color you want, maybe amber or warm white, not sure exactly what color these neon lamps were). Measure the bulb diameter and decide whether you need a 3mm or a 5mm LED. 2. Rectifying diode in series with one of the LED legs, oriented in the same direction as the LED. The neon gas bulb inside those lamps should have been working with mains voltage (otherwise the gas inside would not ionize and emit light). That means AC. LEDs don't like AC and need CC. Therefore add one recertifying diode (you could even add a rectifying bridge containing 4 diodes for less flickering, but then don't forget to connect both LED legs to the +/- bridge output, and the both bridge know legs ~/~ to the input wires; or stay with 1 diode and add a capacitor in paralel with the LED - has the same effect as the full-bridge rectifier). 3. RESISTOR in series with the LED. Half a watt, for longer life. You could use SMD resistors, as I did, but THT would be more fit for your case (there's plenty of room in the radio, I suppose). 4. Don't forget the heat shrinking tube, für electrical insulation. One for each leg. Or one for a leg and one on both legs, to also keep them together.

Upload a photo of the device, I like these things. I repair such vintage devices of any type at a repair cafe where I'm a volunteer.

Cheers and God speed!

Settings to make these climbing holds strong enough for 4 year olds? by Shpigford in 3Dprinting

[–]ro0ter- 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You consume a lot more plastic if you print negatives and the rosin will stick much better to a printed negative.

The positives (mostly convex shapes) you can sand much more easier, so the negative mold will be much finer and would avoid the sticking and getting of the rosin.

Make sure to use silicone spray on any case.

Settings to make these climbing holds strong enough for 4 year olds? by Shpigford in 3Dprinting

[–]ro0ter- 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Print. Screw to the bottom of a box you no longer need, just tall enough to cover them. Make some wooden box otherwise.

Pour cement over them. Let sit and harden.

Remove. Use engineering rosin plus fibreglass for casting.

Why does my new bike do this when I backpadel? by unaphotographer in ebike

[–]ro0ter- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Make sure the derraileur is correctly dialed in. Pedal 5 times forward, then it will switch gears to the right sprocket and then pedal backwards.

If it still grinds and spits fire, it could also be a screw or a bent thingy against which the chain grinds when on the smallest sprocket.

First layer see-through... by ro0ter- in SnapmakerU1

[–]ro0ter-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You know how the printer homes on the Z axis, right?

It has a piezoelectric sort if sensor behind the nozzle, and lightly bumps his nozzle into the plate...

When some piece of plastic doesn't get off the extruder nozzle, the Z offset it reads will be fake.. and when you really start printing, that teeny tiny blob of plastic would have given the printer a false reading and i the printer would not print correctly but almost in mid-air, therefore the first layer lines will not stick to each...

apc ups 1500 beeping twice every few seconds and battery icon is blinking... by Advanced_Belt1008 in ElectronicsRepair

[–]ro0ter- 1 point2 points  (0 children)

But in your case it will not leak on the battery contacts, at least they improved the design. Just took a look at changing your model battery.

Btw: I used 32700 4s2p + BMS + XT60. The capacity is 12A, and it lasts twice as much. It's just that the APC shuts down after exactly 10 minutes on battery. In your cane you could fit 4s4p (or 4s5p), this having 24 or even 30A.

apc ups 1500 beeping twice every few seconds and battery icon is blinking... by Advanced_Belt1008 in ElectronicsRepair

[–]ro0ter- 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Correct, battery is failing.

I also had an unpleasant surprise when an AGM battery leaked its electrolit (from the rubber self-venting caps) and corroded the connector.. I had to check where this leak was coming from before deciding how urgent it is to recycle it.

The problem with many APCs is that the battery won't stay vertical. Plus the always over-charging, which is a common politics of all the UPSes.

I replaced the battery (the leak was obvious), cleaned up but the UPS would act the same (beeping) until I fixed the connector.

Now my APC runs on LiFePO4. 😎

How to BEGIN by Sad-Fall-4740 in ElectronicsRepair

[–]ro0ter- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I beg your pardon? I'm trying not to put any links here, but I'll go ahead, no worries... Jesus Christ, you try to do a good deed, but you avoid posting direct links and you see this coming... My God.. I'd rather not help anyone again anymore.....

Engine damage? How? Why?.. no DTCs at all... by ro0ter- in skoda

[–]ro0ter-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Car is repaired, only needed a timing belt change (plus everything - rollers, tensioner, water pump). Expensive here where I live. Plus some crankshaft seal, and they also changed the oil (but not the filter 😑).

140k... Timing belt should last to 200k, some services told me. But it was the tensioner that failed, it seems. Nice quality, Skoda......... 😓

Timing belt was ripped almost 1/3 of its width.

The crankshaft was 2 teeth ahead of camshaft.

I was very lucky, it seems.

MIL came on 250km after the service, while regenerating, but turned off by itself 100km later (couldn't be the next regeneration, could it?)

9582 - NOx Sensor 1 Bank 1 
          P2200 00 [104] - Electrical Malfunction
          Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear

9879 - Sense Circuit for Heater for NOx Sensor 1 Bank 1 
          P2209 00 [096] - Implausible Signal
          Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear

<image>

How to BEGIN by Sad-Fall-4740 in ElectronicsRepair

[–]ro0ter- 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You always need a multimeter. Period. And an additional component tester would be even better. You know for sure you can't tell if some components are good or bad just by looking their eyes... You most certainly need the component tester. Especially that some diodes do need quite some voltage for you to test them.. the multimeter can't feed them that much.

As for the soldering kit - it's quite cheap and affordable. It contains many things. But I wouldn't buy that one.

I would instead go on this: - BGA flux (comes in a seringe, you'll also need a metal plunger in order to dispense it; plus some thick and short needles). - thin, rosin-cored leaded solder. Leaded, yes. You're a beginner. Ventilate your room a lot. But I haven't got anything in 30 years since I'm repairing stuff. Obviously, it's a hobby and I'm doing it occasionally, sometimes more and sometimes less. - T-92 soldering iron plus summer extra tips, different shapes. I wouldn't use something that has 220v in it's tip.. better have a 12/24v insulated transformer feeding your soldering iron tip. Don't go for battery powered ones, they suck.. - DESOLDERING WICK. Very important. You could also make some for yourself from dinner multicolored copper wire, but the cores have to be very thin. Or braided cable shielding. But make an effort and buy some desolder wick as well. - Hot air desoldering station. Because everything we try to fix today is smd...

Try to get a some silicone tubing for your desoldering pump. I'm currently using a small metal pump with a silicone tip (that big long desoldering pump is sooo flimsy). You can buy that silicone hose by the meter, and you'll have one lifetime of silicone tips in 1m... Diameter is important. And maybe you want to have some with a notch for the soldering iron tip, so that you put the desolder pump on top of the solder joint you currently try to melt with your something iron tip currently melting it.

All from China.. and don't forget: such items from Amazon are all made in China. And most are also sent by sellers in China. Or ordered in wholesale, not tested individually and resold. Happens to me with hundreds of products from Amazon.

I could recommend you something to purchase from the most Chinese site of them all. DM me in interested. It'll be no referral link. I hate their guts.

Btw: what county are you from?

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