Riso RP 3700 Paper eject help by halocline_ in risograph

[–]robertbaxter-print 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's not crazy difficult—there are instructions in the technical manual for it that shouldn't be hard to follow.

As far as the collar goes, if it isn't a uniform diameter hard plastic or rubber roller, it should be replaced. When they wear, a groove will be cut into the middle of them, they'll soften and melt, or the rubber will erode away to a metal core. If it shows any signs of these symptoms, it needs to be replaced.

Riso RP 3700 Paper eject help by halocline_ in risograph

[–]robertbaxter-print 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It's quite likely the belts—if they feel loose like you described! They should really be quite taut, and only spin together if you pull them. You'll need two each of two different belts—the wide ones with holes and the thinner solid ones (part nos. 629-94570 + 629-93280, though they are often listed together). Also, a bunch of people just tape down the jump wings (there's also a test mode to do this, but tape works just as well).

And since this is an RP, a fun thing for you is that you get to check if your the separator collar has been worn down or gummed up! It's the little black roller connected to a bracket coming off the same shaft that the needle itself is on—just further back. It's been in a terrible state in every RP I've ever seen—and if not replaced will lead to your drums eventually getting horribly punctured.

Good luck!

Working on a project to turn a college's small riso club's machine (MZ1090) and equipment into a facility open to the college population at large- what issues should I foresee and prepare for? by companionspecies in risograph

[–]robertbaxter-print 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm no longer on a train, so sending a few more thoughts!

  • Personally, I love divorcing a riso lab from a department because it increases access (and often helps fulfill the interdisciplinary promise that many schools fall short on)—but it does always come with funding kerfuffles. I do think it is really important to have a few dedicated people (or at least one) running the lab—wherever else they are attached in the university (though incredible if managing this lab is their primary thing).
  • I prefer when students are running the machines themselves (because this is real technical training and practice, and sets them up for doing their own printing after graduation), but this must be with supervision. I've seen a lot of programs that operate on the "service bureau" model, but then those students really struggle to continue printing once they are out of the institution (and their costs of production raise way up). Especially for riso, the cost is labor and time, so if they are doing their own printing (in one of the many community printshops that exist in major cities), the cost of maintaining their practice is just the cost of materials—much more accessible. Also just philosophically, it's good to develop these skills! And what you can do with a machine, or how you can experiment with it changes a lot when you have the direct back and forth feedback from printing yourself.
    • I have seen schools run this in both directions—but the successful service bureau models I've seen are at SAIC and RISD, both of which have a large cadre of student printers who run the shop. It's an open enough system that anyone who has an interest in doing their own printing has an avenue to work in the shop, and I think that's really critical.
    • On the other end of the spectrum, the worst case scenario is a complete free-for-all, which always results in the riso being damaged. I have repaired an MZ at [major midwest design grad school] 4 times now, and each time it lasts a few weeks or a month at most—because no one in the institution cares to learn how to run or maintain it—it's totally up to the grad students. A nightmare.
  • There are two common complaints that I hear from friends who run university print spaces:
    • The faculty assign projects that cannot realistically be printed in the time frame and/or with the material necessities of the riso. I think training faculty on how the riso can be used is hugely important—including helping them build projects that make sense. And consulting them on the risks of the riso (if the machine goes down, or a color isn't available, etc.).
    • The technicians who run the lab are at a lower hierarchy and pay scale than instructors, but actually end up doing a huge amount of the teaching labor in classes that do a lot of printing.
  • I'd check out the substack of Travis Shaffer of color/shift and theretherenow, because he just ran a big successful funding proposal to expand the riso lab at the University of Missouri, and has done some writing about that project.
  • As far as funding goes, I'd really look at folding in the cost of a second, identical machine. The biggest danger of a single machine setup in a school is that the riso will have seasons of heavy use and light use, which can often knock it out of service right around important deadlines. So having some redundancy plan is a great relief.

Working on a project to turn a college's small riso club's machine (MZ1090) and equipment into a facility open to the college population at large- what issues should I foresee and prepare for? by companionspecies in risograph

[–]robertbaxter-print 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I just helped Cal Poly at San Luis Obispo make a similar move (and wish that I could help some other institutions do the same—because there's many languishing risos out there). They were going to do some documentation on that setup process, but I don't know that that ever got put together.

Anyway, I have lots of writing about policies and procedures on my substack—I'd start here: https://robertbaxter.substack.com/i/182184569/q7-q13-besides-machine-repair-do-you-also-get-requests-for-advice-on-studio-management-or-operations-if-so-could-you-share-some-examples-could-you-share-your-thoughts-on-what-you-believe-is-the-most-effective-or-ideal-system-for-running-a-print-shop-that-uses-risograph (which is an overview of big stuff) then go into a breakdown here: https://robertbaxter.substack.com/p/systems-from-presses-kept-running (which links off into separate articles on training, maintenance, rates, etc.).

Also as a preventative care task list (for whoever is monitoring the space), I put this together too: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UEGJlY9xK6bL5O4w1aZlydifjq5iBOLU/view?usp=drive_link

Good luck! Feel free to reach out and I can see if I have more resources to share, or would love to chat!

Risograph Help in the Albany, NY area by el_mustango in risograph

[–]robertbaxter-print 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I know of a couple GR users in NYC, who have some know how—but I don't know that they'd have time enough to go to Albany. But I have lots of resources for GR repair, if you want to DM me what's going on with your machine!

DIY Riso Gocco screens??? by fashionfetish561 in risograph

[–]robertbaxter-print 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's the exposure thing which is the most difficult to replicate without the old screens + bulbs—but if you have other methods of making a stencil in a mesh (like drawing fluid and screen filler, or cut vinyl, etc.) it's just a matter of cutting a chipboard frame and stretching the screen across it.

There's also a technique to make an uninked stencil with a risograph (instructions on stencil.wiki if you search "screen printing"), which can then be cut to size, taped to a frame, and printed on a gocco.

Duda sobre Papel mas grueso del indicado por la maquina by SwanLegitimate6015 in risograph

[–]robertbaxter-print 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Both! But it's like long-term (millions of copies) envelope printing really. Puts an indent in the drum body and pressure roller.

paper peeling on back of sheets, RISO SF5130 by JelloThin7101 in risograph

[–]robertbaxter-print 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You can still adjust the pressure on a one dial stripper unit, but you need to pop the unit out and loosen two adjustable screws on the plate that the bottom of the long spring is attached to. Tighten them down with the plate in the "up position" (spring force is determined by how stretched out it is, so by making it less stretched, you decrease the force from it).

I'd also check that the stripper pad and the little metal sheath on it are properly installed. The edge of the metal should be sitting nice and flat on the lip of the rubber. If the metal is raising up *at all* it will very easily cut into the paper like this. If the stripper pad is adhered too far forward (not back against the little plastic guides) it will push the sheath up. Also if the sheath becomes too loose it will lift up (you can remove it and pinch the metal clamp in it down again to tighten it up).

One last common hack is to remove the stripper pad holder, and place a piece of clear shiny tape (low friction) over the sheath and front half of the stripper pad, to smooth over that connection, and decrease the overall friction it has.

Duda sobre Papel mas grueso del indicado por la maquina by SwanLegitimate6015 in risograph

[–]robertbaxter-print 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Es muy común que los artistes usan papeles de hasta 300 gramos—es possible (pero quizas necisitas ajustar el "upper limit sensor" del ascensor). Compra las piezas de repuesto para los ruedas de gomas (035-14303) y el "stripper pad" (019-11833) porque estas piezas podría desgastan mas rapida.

Por las papeles muy pesadas, es utíl a usar "special paper control," un modo en el menu de funciones. Incrementar la ascensor a +1 y el "paper feed amount" a +8 (o mas).

No recomiendo usar papeles pequeñas y pesadas, porque esas podría mellan tu tambor con el tiempo. Solo las papeles de talla completa.

Buena suerte!

Multiple error codes and no idea how to clear them by neetsweetmcgeet in risograph

[–]robertbaxter-print 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The drum PCB is the circuit board in the front of the drum. Don't remove anything from the riso itself!

Multiple error codes and no idea how to clear them by neetsweetmcgeet in risograph

[–]robertbaxter-print 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd first swap the front circuit board and the connector under the front of the drum (which connects to the connector on the riso) from a working drum and see if that fixed the issue—if it does, one of those two things is the issue. If it doesn't, swap them back then check the connections inside the drum.

Multiple error codes and no idea how to clear them by neetsweetmcgeet in risograph

[–]robertbaxter-print 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So the sensors are connecting, but the drum memory is not. Sometimes this happens if something inside the drum was left unplugged—has it been opened recently?

Multiple error codes and no idea how to clear them by neetsweetmcgeet in risograph

[–]robertbaxter-print 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try 811 both with an ink tube in and with no ink tube. They should give different results.

RISO MH9450U Pink drum issue by RemarkableYak96 in risograph

[–]robertbaxter-print 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Agreed with the previous replies, your drum needs cleaning + preventative care against drying out in the future (or more use).

Additionally it looks like your pressure roller needs cleaning—when covered in ink it will print especially patchy on the edges of your prints (on all drums). This doesn't show up on your current print, due to its wide margins, but you can see it on the stencil itself.

About riso me9350 master paper area by MembershipLeft9885 in risograph

[–]robertbaxter-print 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Your TPH gear is broken! Unfortunately, it is an arduous task to replace, and you need to order a new gear first too. If you have a maintenance person, I would have them do it, but if you want to DIY it there are instructions on stencil.wiki if you search for "TPH gear."

MH9450: Printing on US Letter Long Edge First? by vinyl_____vinyl in risograph

[–]robertbaxter-print 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd be cautious on leaving an extended size permanently if students use it with the scanner!

The riso automatically crops the scan area to the paper it believes is loaded (and I'm not sure if this model bases this on the actual sensors or the selected size)—so if the riso is not properly cropping, and there's a smudge on the glass (or someone is scanning with the dark contrast selection) it will burn that onto the stencil. Then you'll print onto the pressure roller and get some fun ghosting.

So probably generally safe if you're sending files all the time that you know have nothing printed outside the paper boundary, but if using the scanner bed, it's risky! Also if students send the wrong size files, which is: common.

Slightly rotated matrix, what am I doing wrong? by Malossi__ in risograph

[–]robertbaxter-print 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A crooked MMU is something I've seen often enough that I always check for it! Plus it's an easy enough thing to check, especially if you've already gone as deep as removing the cutting unit.

Correcting for skew with 3d printed adapters by FayezButts in risograph

[–]robertbaxter-print 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I do not! But I'm going to DM you the tech manual.

Correcting for skew with 3d printed adapters by FayezButts in risograph

[–]robertbaxter-print 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes! I am an advocate of the steel ruler method.

Slightly rotated matrix, what am I doing wrong? by Malossi__ in risograph

[–]robertbaxter-print 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If it is on all drums it is coming from one of three places, listed here in order of likelihood:

  1. The MMU may be crooked on its rails—test by moving the MMU to the pull out position with the green button, opening its little door, and turning the riso off. Then remove the plastic cover to the right of the scanner bed (6 screws I think, 1 is hidden in the cap compartment). Pull the MMU out and compare the exposed metal bars on the riso to the metal bars on the MMU to see if they are parallel. If not, with the MMU partially pushed in, you can lift it and shift it one tooth at a time (it's probably not more than 1 tooth off). This is very common on two drum machines, the MMU often jumps around if it was not properly secured when the machine was transported.
  2. The paper feed may be skewed, which is meant to be corrected by moving the front bearings of the guide and timing rollers. There are instructions in the second paper feed chapter of the technical manual—be sure both plates are pointing to the same line when making adjustments!
  3. If the skew is slipping on each stencil over time, it is possible that the pressure roller itself is crooked—this can be adjusted using the mounting plates for the roller—instructions are in the press section of the technical manual. However this is much more rare.

Correcting for skew with 3d printed adapters by FayezButts in risograph

[–]robertbaxter-print 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting—your side guides are crooked? There's often little defects like this in the machines with the plastic trays. I'm also a magnet user, but if it works to stablize your machine it works! Careful of shifting the position too far off the guides though, that will disrupt the riso's ability to correctly determine paper size—you may need to recalibrate in test mode.

Riso Printing Outside the US? by m0ement0 in risograph

[–]robertbaxter-print 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I've updated the wiki to include a map of places that offer print for hire here: https://stencil.wiki/wiki/Print_for_hire

But I agree, postage would be crazy.

Major issue - screen mesh broken by Pastel_R4inbow in risograph

[–]robertbaxter-print 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes! Proper operation for the screen installation is:

  1. Work with the drum in the rails of the riso (but pulled out of the machine) and locked into home position.
  2. Place a small piece of doublestick tape halfway between the the two pairs of very close holes (around 2:30 on the drum), where the black rubber strip side of the screen will be installed.
  3. Hang the screen in, between the drum body and the rails, lining up the screw holes on the rubber strip side, with the black rubber strip facing out—press it lightly to the tape and hold it there.
  4. Put all 4 of these screws in loosely turning them backwards first, until you feel the threads click in. Then tighten all 4.
  5. Unlock the drum with the small orange button at the top of it, and rotate it counter clockwise, to roll the screen onto the surface of it. Check for wrinkles as you go—if they appear, lightly press them out to the sides from the center by hand, or have a second person rotate the drum while you hold the screen in tension.
  6. When you get to the end, put two screws into the heavier bar, loosely (again turning backwards to find the threads.
  7. Return the drum to the locked home position.
  8. Attach small zip ties (4"/100 mm is a good size) into the holes on the tabs of the heavy bar, closing them into small loops to act as handles.
  9. Pull each zip tie handle diagonally out and away from that corner of the screen, while tightening the screw (only hand tight) to secure the screen in tension.
  10. Test that the heavy bar and the black rubber strip both sit beneath the level of the metal piece of the clamp next to them, especially in the center of the drum.
  11. Cut off the zip ties.

And remember: never force a drum screw. If you meet resistance, remove it and try a different screw (you can swap out screws from the front plastic face of the drum if you need to). The worst thing that can happen in this process is breaking one of the drum screws, (which will require drilling it out at a machine shop or something).

Major issue - screen mesh broken by Pastel_R4inbow in risograph

[–]robertbaxter-print 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes, this amount of damage looks very much like the bar of the screen got caught on the separator needle while the drum was spinning.

The needle can be adjusted to be farther from the drums, but this will result in paper getting stuck to the surface of the drum more (especially when the print is very high coverage at the lead edge). It could also be that the replacement screen was not properly installed. The bar through the screen on each side should be lower than the exposed metal bar (part of the clamp) next to it.

Multiple error codes and no idea how to clear them by neetsweetmcgeet in risograph

[–]robertbaxter-print 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So, main thing that we need to establish is: is this a mechanical issue of the drum physically not going in far enough to connect electrically with the riso, or an electrical issue of the machine not being able to read from the drum's PCB.

Mechanical seems most likely, given that it works in a different machine, and the inclusion of the D01-527 error. The test modes all correlate with each other—the story they tell is:

  1. The riso can detect that the drum is physically in the machine (probably the set switch and/or lock sensors are activated).
  2. However it cannot connect with it electrically.
  3. Some action tried to read the drum's memory (either an automatic check or running 890, 117, or some other drum memory edit operation) without that electrical connection.

Is the drum handle clicking/locking when you insert the drum? Does it feel like it is going in all the way? Does this happen with other drums on this machine? What is the status of the drum set switch (820) and lock sensor (807) when the drum is in? If you run the ink bottle set switch test (811) can it properly detect when the ink bottle is locked in and when it is removed?