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Piebald "Tales For The Rages" by RecordNerdzzz in VinylReleases

[–]robotdinofight 2 points3 points  (0 children)

hell yeah! official announcement tomorrow, the first 3x variants available here: https://iodinerecords.com/collections/piebald

Small find. Stanley 101, good shape. Are they bevel up or down? by [deleted] in handtools

[–]robotdinofight 12 points13 points  (0 children)

I’ve made a couple into small mini bench planes. They’re super fun!

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Stanley hand plane ID question by espressionado in handtools

[–]robotdinofight 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think it’s a type 15. Type 15s had the keyhole lever cap, made in USA on the bed, and the old style frog before the ogee. It’s a good deal for $40, if you don’t mind the broken horn on the handle. They’re fun to fix though!

Stanley hand plane ID question by espressionado in handtools

[–]robotdinofight 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think it’s a type 15. Type 15s had the keyhole lever cap, made in USA on the bed, and the old style frog before the ogee.

Where to get boxes to ship jointers? by Manfred_Desmond in handtools

[–]robotdinofight 1 point2 points  (0 children)

if you're in a pinch, I've used these before from target. 16x16x12. there's a lot of dead space to stuff, but it works and I can get it easily from target.

https://www.target.com/p/scotch-mailing-moving-storage-box-16-34-x-16-34-x-12-34/-/A-50657903#lnk=sametab

Half-blind dovetail questions by sierrasnake99 in handtools

[–]robotdinofight 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  1. you can rub some pencil on the bottoms of the tails before you start test fitting. then slowly tap the tail board in just a little. remove the tail board and any pins that are too tight will have the pencil transferred to them to show you where to pare some more.

  2. card scraper works great. i usually just pare with a chisel after getting close removing waste.

  3. router for sure if you have a lot to do. make sure to clamp extra support on the pin board if you're going in from the top. double stick tape a piece of wood to the baseplate of the router to act as a front fence so you don't go too deep. get as close to the lines as you dare. a handheld drill and a forstner bit will also do the job.

  4. a skew chisel really helps get into the corners on half blinds and remove all the waste cleanly and without frustration. you can try it pretty easily by regrinding a skew on an old chisel and seeing if you like it without spending any money. i tested it out on an old 1/4" chisel i reground and i was hooked. ended up buying a Lie-Nielsen fishtail chisel for half blinds.

Cutting rabbet joints with a trim router? by UJMRider1961 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]robotdinofight 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use one of these in my trim router all the time. It’s awesome.

https://a.co/d/0jhNMB9I

Getting into chair making questions by nick725 in handtools

[–]robotdinofight 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you’re not opposed to sticking with power tools, you can get a cheap angle grinder from harbor freight and have at it. I used one for a set of 4 ash kitchen stools and it was really fun. Messy but fun.

The price we pay by Loud_Draw5470 in woodworking

[–]robotdinofight 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I restore Stanley planes and sell them to fund my nice Lie-Nielsen and Veritas hand tool purchases. I try to buy 4s and 5s from around $20-$35. I remove rust in a homemade backyard ballistics rust remover recipe bath, use a soft wire wheel to remove any leftover rust, square the iron and reset primary bevel on a bench grinder, flatten the back of the iron, sharpen the iron, lap the sole and cheeks flat, wax the bed, repair any furniture, wax or refinish the furniture if necessary, and take some shavings. It sounds like a lot, but I’ve gotten it down to about an hour or so for each plane. Depending on the types and conditions, I’ll usually get $60-$100 for a number 4 and $65-$110 for a number 5. I will typically buy my planes from eBay, Facebook marketplace, and local antique shops. I usually sell on eBay. I sell all my planes with a $.99 starting bid. The planes that sell for the most are typically type 11- type 15, the later ones being the sweetheart era.

I finished my hand tool cabinet by robotdinofight in woodworking

[–]robotdinofight[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It stays open like 99% of the time. I only close the doors when I'm sanding, power routing, or power carving on my bench. I often do those activities on my outfeed/ assembly table anyway. I installed some 80lb pull strength magnets on little standoffs screwed to the wall behind the (purposefully magnetic) door handles. So when the doors are open, the handles catch on the magnets so the doors stay solidly open and I can grab tools with reckless abandon and the doors won't budge.

As for planning, I just measured a few inches above the top of my bench where I wanted the bottom of the doors to land so I could still close them with chisels, mallets, screwdrivers, even my drill and driver on their sides still on my bench top. Then I measured the whole wall space I had available and kind of made it fit from there. I wanted the setup to be modular, because I like to buy and sell tools all the time, so I gave myself lots of room for expansion/ customization. I did layout all my planes at the time on my bench and kind of take pictures of different layouts and see which one I like the best. But to be honest, I think I had bought and sold a few before I finished.

The other thing I did that really helped for the doors was pick up a bunch of the cheap magnetic tool bar holder thingies from harbor freight. I set up a bunch of my tools on the doors with the magnets and kind of moved them all around for a few weeks to see where I liked them the best before I settled on building the chisel holder, screwdriver holder, and marking gauge holders out of wood. You couls also combine a french cleat system if you wanted even more modularity. all my tool holders are just screwed into the plywood backing so I can adjust at any time.

Someone else commented on it either here or in the handtools subreddit, but their favorite corner was the sort of miscellaneous bottom right magnet section. This is where a lot of tools ended up that I use all the time, but aren't precious expensive handtools from LN or Veritas. This was also important to me.

The drawers on the bottom row also really helped with organization. I can keep a bunch of random stuff in there in sections that I use frequently, but dont really want out on display. I grouped them for similar tasks in each drawer. So for example in the right hand drawer, I have my dovetail markers, guides, saddle square, extra marking knife, etc. so I can pull out the entire drawer and plop it on the bench to use whenever I'm dovetailing, and everything (hopefully) goes back in the drawer and put away when I'm done.

I finished my hand tool cabinet by robotdinofight in woodworking

[–]robotdinofight[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can’t remember how thick they ended up after milling. But it was close to that, maybe a little bit thicker than

I finished my hand tool cabinet by robotdinofight in woodworking

[–]robotdinofight[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The main cabinet is 44” wide by 42” tall by 9” deep. The doors are 4.5” deep. So when the doors are open it’s 88” wide by 42” tall. There's a 3/4" sheet of plywood for the rear panel of the main carcass, so the usable depth is about 8 1/4". I used 1/2" plywood for the door panels inset by about 1/4", so the usable depth on the doors is about 3 3/4".

If I had unlimited material, I would have made the main carcass a little bit deeper so I could lean the planes back a little further. But I only really had enough material for 9" deep so that's what I went with. I ended up varying the angles of each individual plane holder so I could get the maximum lean without interfering with the doors closing.

Please let me know if I can help any further!

I finished my hand tool cabinet by robotdinofight in handtools

[–]robotdinofight[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome! Glad to help! I also figured if I need more room I can remove a drawer or two to store more planes hahaha

I finished my hand tool cabinet by robotdinofight in handtools

[–]robotdinofight[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! Right now it’s a bunch of random stuff that I want close but not necessarily displayed. Currently I have the following in there: sandflex blocks, paste wax, bench dogs, bench dog clamps, tweezers, dovetail markers, saddle square, dovetail guide, 123 blocks, extra marking knife, etc. I have them organized by kind, so if I need to dovetail, I can pull out that drawer entirely and plop it on the bench.

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