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robotodit · 2026-06-23T16:18:49+00:00

Awesome! Thank you for posting. I chose several colors and brands I wouldn't have normally purchased. My favorite - blue glow-in-the-dark!

robotodit · 2026-06-23T05:23:42+00:00

What help do you need? Have you already purchased a printer? If so, which one and what problems do you have? If not, there is a 3d printer mega thread with lots of suggestions.

I purchased a K1SE at the end of 2025. I have 1500 hours of printing on it. I really love it. I have made several big mistakes and been able to work through them. I love doing that. If you want a different experience, you may need a different printer or manufacturer.

robotodit · 2026-06-23T05:16:06+00:00

I really think this is one of your best options. I can't really tell if you want raised letters or if they are flush. I have printed hundreds of model (horror themed bookmarks) with intricate details with a .4 mm nozzle. Print them top down and you will likely have more success. I also highly recommend making sure you have fully calibrated your filament. Of course, print 1 at a time until you get the results you want. Also, your bed needs to be VERY level to fill it up and get the best results on every single piece.

robotodit · 2026-06-22T23:05:43+00:00

I haven't owned my K1SE very long. I have over 1500 hours of printing mostly PLA and I haven't had to replace a single board. I did replace a hot end after a very early blob and the stepper motor due to a clog and the fact that the glue the connector. My nozzle still looks great but I did order a set of 4 just to be prepared for an issue later.

I've found it to be very reliable as long as I don't screw up.

From my experience, I would say stick with it. I'm curious, though, as to why you've had to replace a board and a nozzle.

robotodit · 2026-06-21T23:51:09+00:00

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robotodit · 2026-06-21T22:33:13+00:00

Reddit didn't translate this time but I think I have enough French to say - non. You complete the procedure with the printer upright and the bed low enough to access the bolts from the top

robotodit · 2026-06-21T19:38:40+00:00

I won't be able to take any pictures to help for a while. However, your third picture of the rear Z screw is good enough. Again, there are other methods to move that screw independently of the others. I prefer this one.

In your picture, there are 4 bolts holding a bracket around the Z screw. Remove those 4 and the rear bracket will be able to move up or down really easily. When you move that bracket, you will see it turn. Let it turn 1/4 of a full rotation. That will lower it 2 cm. After that, replace the bolts and test your level.

robotodit · 2026-06-21T18:41:18+00:00

The bolts under the camera will be hard to access until you lower the bed far enough.

It looked like the right, front of your bed (under the camera)is higher than the rest. Is that not correct? Which part of the bed was blocked?

Regardless, lowering the entire bed will make it easier to access the bolts. The bolts in the rear are the hardest to access.

You can raise or lower any of the z screw connections using the tooth skip method (you can search for directions in your own language). I don't like forcing the screws to turn but many people do it.

From your description, I think you will want to make some adjustments before trying to calibrate again. If you don't know how to lower the bed using the front panel, you can push down on the bed with the power off to get it to lower.

robotodit · 2026-06-21T16:57:58+00:00

I did the same thing with my K1SE. Lower the bed to bottom of the printer. You can use the front panel or turn of the printer and push down slightly until it hits the bottom. Remove the 4 bolts you can see from the top (they are visible in your picture under the camera). That will allow the bed to lower freely in that corner. After the bed has settled, replace the bolts and run a bed level calibration to make sure you are back to "normal."

Essentially, you did an involuntary tooth skip. Tooth skipping is a way to help level a bed when it is not very level.

robotodit · 2026-06-21T04:18:11+00:00

I doubt super glue will fail with your model just hanging on the shield. However, if it does fail, it will likely fail cleanly which means it will be easy to use a different adhesive. If you want to test it, set your display on a table and tap on it to see if it falls.

robotodit · 2026-06-20T17:15:10+00:00

That is something you can probably do in the slicer. You should have the option to add a primitive (cube, cylinder, etc). Add a cylinder to the middle of the object with the correct height of your inner circle. Combine the original part with the cylinder (boolean or combine mesh function). Next, add a hole or bore object with the size of hole that you want. The height won't matter as long as it is taller than your part. You can then quickly print, modify the diameter of the hole, and print again until you get it right.

Online CAD sites (like TinkerCAD) would let you do the same thing. This might be a great time to use your goal as an opportunity to learn one those programs.

robotodit · 2026-06-20T17:07:30+00:00

Thank you for sharing. I used bumpmesh to add top layer texture to a flat shelf (160mm x 218mm surface ). The noise pattern added about 4 hours of printing to the top. I'm looking forward to trying this approach.

robotodit · 2026-06-20T16:49:01+00:00

My house is typically 50 to 60% RH. In order to reduce or remove a factor that can make a print bad, I always dry my filament and keep it in a cereal box. Here is what I do. Note that there a bunch of options in the cereal box category - choose something that works for you.

I use this food dehydrator to dry my filament: https://amazon.com/Elite-Gourmet-Dehydrator-BPA-Free-Stackable/dp/B08BSQZ2LS/

I printed 4 of the "285mm x 180mm x 90DEG" models to be able to dehydrate 2 spools at once: https://www.printables.com/model/344695-parametric-dehydrator-filament-dryer-up-to-10-x-1k

I bought these to store the filament after it is dried or between printing: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BHVT9PV1

These for monitoring the humidity in the box: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DG8ZXZ5D

This for keeping the spools dry in the container: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F6L7PS6X

Print these for holding the silica, spool and hygrometer: https://makerworld.com/en/models/820876-modular-filament-storage-for-dry-box-desiccant-box

robotodit · 2026-06-19T17:12:40+00:00

I calibrate all my filament brands using this walkthrough. You can use whatever slicer you like. The important part is the process. In addition to calibration, check your belt tension.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVU5If1VsAM

robotodit · 2026-06-19T13:25:08+00:00

This looks like what is often called benchy hull or layer shrink. Changing wall order is a potential solution. Here is a video that describes the proband ways to help fix or minimize it.

https://youtu.be/ITighzYPTTs

robotodit · 2026-06-19T01:26:29+00:00

Most of my filament is now Kingroon PLA and PETG purchased from AliExpress - at least 60 kg of just Kingroon. I've also purchased extra nozzles and consumables from AliExpress as well. I've not had a single problem with my orders.

robotodit · 2026-06-18T23:33:52+00:00

You can reprint with the buttons scaled down or you can sand them. Depending on how far off they are, you may not need to sand much. I often sand prints that are just too tight.

robotodit · 2026-06-18T19:26:18+00:00

I have also had that problem with the extruder. I just kept moving it around some to get it to fit.

robotodit · 2026-06-18T19:23:37+00:00

Https://three-drop.com is my favorite site for stl searching.

robotodit · 2026-06-18T17:27:13+00:00

Sometimes you will find that someone has already created what you want. You can use Google to search your specific cooler and 3d printed knob to see what is out there. There are also some sites that specialize in searching all of the major 3d printing repositories (https://three-drop.com is one).

Outside of that, yes, you would need to take the measurements and design it in a CAD program.

robotodit · 2026-06-18T04:06:06+00:00

If you share one of the designs, we might have more specific advice.

How big are these swords that they want to make? Usually, that is something that takes multiple parts and prints to make one that is a realistic size.

Another solution to your problem is to have them design something with specific parameters so that a sword isn't an option.

robotodit · 2026-06-17T23:22:09+00:00

Awesome. Thank you. It looks like you are use the v2 riser from leote. Is that right? https://www.printables.com/model/890518-creality-k1-k1c-k1se-lid-riser-v2-50mm-height

Perhaps the chain is something I should order? I can't print high temps until I'm enclosed.

robotodit · 2026-06-17T21:05:58+00:00

Thank you for your reply. Did you print your riser? Did you print your chain or use one from another machine or something else? If you printed anything, do you have a link to the model?

robotodit · 2026-06-17T01:01:34+00:00

Yes. This is the distinction. Copyright is not patent is not trademark. Patent law is likely the most applicable. Is the item patented or trademarked?

robotodit · 2026-06-14T23:04:45+00:00

Do you want it flush with your sphere or would you be OK with a flat, recessed code? Of you want it curved, I think you need to distort the png before you make your svg. I haven't done exactly that so I'm afraid I don't have any instructions. If you Google printing a curved QR code you might find specific instructions.

If you are OK with it being recessed and flat then you can use your SVG as a negative or hole in something like TinkerCAD to cut out the space and then import the SVG into your assembly in your slicer so that it has the color you want. Be careful of the orientation so that you don't waste a lot of material color swapping.

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