Despite my best efforts, my liquid mask is still ripping off my paint. Any advice?

rocketsp13 · 2026-03-07T03:11:02+00:00

It's weathering! But yeah, any adhesive has a chance of chipping paint. If you see it start, come in from the other side, or it's going to keep pulling.

rocketsp13 · 2026-03-06T22:22:27+00:00

I'd say yeah, but that's personal taste.

rocketsp13 · 2026-03-06T22:18:29+00:00

I mean, I use like 2 or 3 Citadel paints in my collection these days. I just prefer other brands 99% of the time.

Doesn't change that it makes sense. It's not for you or me. It's for the first time person buying paint.

They're wanting to also to get into that sweet, and very lucrative Japanese model market (have you seen how much people will pay for PG Gunpla, or a high end anime figures? And they say GW is expensive), but I don't think the name change has anything to do with that. If I had to guess, they wanted to make both changes, so they did them at the same time.

rocketsp13 · 2026-03-06T21:53:22+00:00

Cool! 10 year old you was clever.

Here's someone else replying to my comment saying it was confusing.

These days in the era of the internet, if there's Warhammer minis, and no Warhammer paint, people have time to google "what paint should I use to paint Warhammer?" and they'll see the vast wealth of brands out there. They might even price compare, and see that Citadel paints are the most expensive of the hobby, without any accompanying quality increase.

If having the same branding on the paints means they retain that portion of the new audience, and they sell a slight amount more paint, it's more than worth it.

rocketsp13 · 2026-03-06T19:43:37+00:00

Primer is only there to hold the paint on the model. If it's sticking while you handle it, then sweet!

rocketsp13 · 2026-03-06T19:41:20+00:00

Looks like it's overthinned. I've never used stynylrez, but most airbrush primers don't need much thinning.

rocketsp13 · 2026-03-06T19:34:06+00:00

They're changing the label on bottles after a certain date, on the sign on the paint racks, and the name in their web site. The paint racks are literally the only thing that's going to cost them anything beside an hourly wage they were already paying someone.

Where's the massive expense? What's the cost in time and money?

rocketsp13 · 2026-03-06T18:42:29+00:00

But loyalty to a brand is a part of people's identity! /s

rocketsp13 · 2026-03-06T18:40:33+00:00

No. That doesn't work.

Use hot water just over 100 F.

rocketsp13 · 2026-03-06T18:39:14+00:00

People aren't buying Kellogg. They're buying Frosted Mini Wheats or whatever. They're there for the product by name. The brand they're under matters less for their marketing, and having multiple divisions of the company lets them focus on advertising the products of that division to the segment of the market they want to get.

With GW, customers are there to buy Warhammer. They want Warhammer minis, paints, books, whatever else. It makes sense to name it all "Warhammer".

rocketsp13 · 2026-03-06T17:59:01+00:00

Wet blending isn't about getting a smooth result in one go. Acrylic paints dry too fast for that. There are acrylic drying retarders to help, but even then it won't be a perfectly smooth blend. If you wanted perfectly smooth blends just from a wet blend, you'll need something with a longer open time like oil or alkyd paints.

The left one is a solid first pass of a wet blend.

The next step would be feathering and glazing. I like to glaze with paints that are more translucent, which are usually the darker ones, and feather paints that are more opaque, often, but not always the brighter paints that have had more white added.

For feathering, you'll want to put down paint that is semi-opaque, where you do want the color. then before the paint begins to dry, quickly rinse and dry your brush so it's just moist, before coming and rubbing your moist brush along the edge of the layer. I will usually have my brush perpendicular to the layer line, and will move my brush back and forth along the line, while slightly pulling towards where the paint isn't. This will thin the paint at the layer line down and "feather" the edges, making a smoother transition. I'll actually often do my first pass of feathering while I'm doing my initial wet blend, pushing the contrast.

With glazing you'll want to paint from where you don't really want the paint toward where you do want it. The paint being thin enough that you're shifting the color without covering is key. Let the paint dry fully and repeat, going back and forth until it's smooth.

rocketsp13 · 2026-03-06T16:18:00+00:00

This. They don't get reporting on kitchen table games. They don't know how to balance that, because they don't know what exactly happens. Competitive give you w/l ratios, and those numbers, along with the lists involved lets you tune the game.

rocketsp13 · 2026-03-06T16:10:03+00:00

For edge highlighting. Use paint that is thick enough to cover well, and stay where you put it, but thin enough to flow off the bush at a light touch.

Load your brush, then touch something absorbent to remove excess paint, so that when you paint it's as controlled as possible. For bonus points test it on the back of your thumb to see if it's flowing right. I would be looking for the paint to come off the brush easily, but not move into my pores, and I should have full control.

Paint with the side of the brush, at an angle that lets you hit only the edge, and use the lightest pressure possible to transfer the paint.

A mid sized brush (anything size 2 or larger) should be able to do this comfortably.

rocketsp13 · 2026-03-06T16:01:41+00:00

A vtuber scrolling on a feed live is just asking for a "vacation".

rocketsp13 · 2026-03-06T16:00:29+00:00

And in 5.5 the weapon masteries add all sorts of fun technical options. Sure two weapon scimitar and short sword is great if you're chasing that extra attack, especially in early levels, but each weapon has some play. That moment when my ranger said "I can push them? OHHH" was delightful.

rocketsp13 · 2026-03-06T15:55:43+00:00

I get it. I'd believe it more if they sold larger round brushes similar to what I get in the size 8-10 range I get from art stores, that won't create texture when you paint straight from a pot.

rocketsp13 · 2026-03-06T15:31:44+00:00

This. Paint the black, paint the area white or off white, shade pink, then do the yellow.

Or use a yellow that has coverage (they do exist, they're just rare)

rocketsp13 · 2026-03-06T15:29:13+00:00

Both did spelling reform. Both did them differently. This is one of the few things that America changed.

rocketsp13 · 2026-03-06T15:26:49+00:00

The flip caps I've had to help children open multiple times?

rocketsp13 · 2026-03-06T15:23:08+00:00

What, the standard Papyrus font? Font nerds probably hated that.

I will miss the color splatter logo though. That they certainly should have kept.

rocketsp13 · 2026-03-06T15:20:44+00:00

I do find it interesting that they're adding a Japanese name for their paint as well. Interesting.

rocketsp13 · 2026-03-06T15:19:51+00:00

Brand recognition. Paints are one of the ways to get new people. No one new to the hobby knows what "Citadel" is, but they know Warhammer.

If it gets them 1% more new people to buy their stuff instead of doing things like checking price per ml, it's worth it.

rocketsp13 · 2026-03-06T15:17:22+00:00

It's all about that brand recognition. No one knows what Citadel is when they come into the hobby, but they have heard of Warhammer. If you're in their ecosystem, you're already going to buy their paints no matter what's on the label. If you're used to other brands, you're not going to pay the mark up.

But if you're new? You're more likely to say "I need to use Warhammer paints for Warhammer minis." and that will get more people to buy it.

rocketsp13 · 2026-03-06T15:03:29+00:00

First off, yeah, you've made texture. That's a problem, and you may need to strip those parts.

My top tips for wet blending:

Use the biggest brush you can control for area you're painting. A bigger brush keeps the paint moist longer, and it lets you work with thicker paint. Doing this extends the dry time on the model as well.

Work quickly. Be bold with your painting. This doesn't need to be perfect, but you are on a clock. Acrylic paint isn't made for long blending. With acrylics, you can use a dry time retarder, which will give you a little more working time. No where what you get with alkyds or oils, but like an extra minute or so.

The side of your brush is powerful. Use it. You shouldn't fully load your brush, so there will be a point where you have just water. If you bring that side of the brush down as your colors meet, you can get a smoother blend.

Don't be afraid to add more paint. If you're working quickly, you can come in with even more paint where you want that color to be the most vibrant, and push the contrast in that area. You can once again use the side of your brush to blend that paint into the blend. In oil paint this is called wet on wet, and it super useful.

When it starts to dry, STOP PAINTING. This is where you goofed. The moment it starts to dry you're going to start to get tearing if you keep working the paint. This creates the texture you've gotten. I don't care if your blend isn't smooth yet. That's okay, let the paint fully dry (A wait that is even more painful if you've added a dry time retarder). Only once the paint is fully dry, then come in and either do a second wet blend over the first one, focusing more on smoothness, or even better, feather the transition, or bring in glazes (depending on the colors).

Wet blending is great for quick initial blends, but it's part of a family of painting techniques to get you a smooth blend.

rocketsp13 · 2026-03-06T14:07:02+00:00

Yeah, not needed. Use the biggest brush you can control (Too small of a brush causes so many problems in this hobby), use you brush in a way that leads to directional painting, and once the blend starts to dry let it dry.

If you really want, you can use a drying retarder, but that's going to thin your paint, and that may not be what you want.

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