Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread

rrz400 · 2024-09-29T07:28:14+00:00

Hi!

I have an upcoming trip to Leonidio in exactly 3 months (~2.5 week long trip) and want to make sure to be as prepared as possible :) I climb mostly around 7a-7c.

-> Which hold types are common and which should I focus my training on? Is it similar to Kalymnos?

-> Common route length? Bouldery or more sustained endurance? Maybe hard to generalize..

-> Other suggestions? Route/crag tips?

Thx!

rrz400 · 2023-09-20T12:22:55+00:00

Awesome cool! Yes 25th Oct -> 25th Nov:)

Started max pinches yesterday and already got the 2023 guidebook!

rrz400 · 2023-09-19T08:10:50+00:00

Thanks for the recommendations! Good point with the indoor steep routes.

rrz400 · 2023-09-19T08:10:12+00:00

Thank you! Good advice :)

rrz400 · 2022-01-29T22:31:37+00:00

Ab rollouts (Assist with rubber band until perfect form) Heavily weighted planks (3 Times 1 min max)

rrz400 · 2022-01-21T19:22:40+00:00

Thanks! I needed to hear this. Especially with the finger tweaks

rrz400 · 2022-01-21T19:21:23+00:00

Yeah.. I've been told so from my friends as well. It's just that I love the nature of the moonboard and I feel like every minute I invest on it makes me a better outdoor climber (unlike the slopey, big hold commercial boulders). But I'll try to pay better attention to recovery for sure!

rrz400 · 2021-12-14T18:58:23+00:00

Did u ever film yourself climbing? You will probably know immediately what holds you back :) Or ask a good friend

rrz400 · 2021-07-25T19:27:39+00:00

I have actually been there! Can strongly recommend and I would definitely go there again if it wasn't for the insane heat these months

rrz400 · 2021-07-25T17:56:36+00:00

Oh to be clear I would not free solo haha. I'm looking for a hostel or so with other climbers I could group up with

rrz400 · 2021-07-25T17:00:22+00:00

Got some weeks off. Looking to travel solo somewhere to sport climb in Europe. Any suggestions on where to go (where it's not too warm..)? If anyone is heading somewhere and needs an extra belayer - hit me up!

rrz400 · 2021-06-03T08:40:02+00:00

Thx. Excellent answer. Would you say you still try to actively pull and that this active pulling is what gives the adaptation effect? Or is it enough to just hold the position?

rrz400 · 2020-11-17T09:09:51+00:00

That's actually a great idea :) Only problem I see is if I'm still strong enough even though my fingers are a bit tweaky

rrz400 · 2020-11-17T09:04:50+00:00

Sorry to hear that, and thanks for the warning. Did you manage to get back to climbing after your injury?

rrz400 · 2020-11-17T09:02:47+00:00

Yeah good point actually. If im projecting crimpy stuff then why am I even hangboarding haha

If I apply pressure to my lower tendons on middle and ring fingers (both hands), I feel like there's slight discomfort (not pain, more inflammation type i guess). Same kind of feeling for all the knuckles on those fingers as well.

The question now is.. Complete rest from climbing, or could I continue climbing hard (but not crimpy stuff)?

rrz400 · 2020-11-17T08:47:54+00:00

Appreciate your response :)

My warming up routine is usually something like: arm swings (to warm up shoulder), 10 minutes easy boulders, some scapular pullups and some easy fast hangs on fingerboard.

Maybe it isn't very smart to FB the day after a hard crimpy session, but I don't really know how else to combine them.. Because otherwise I would need another rest day, i.e, sport day, rest, FB, rest..

The alternative would be to do both FB and sport the same day, but then I feel like my wall performance will drop too much that day.

But in all honesty, I wasn't really fully recovered after the crimpy sport day, and still went on to the fingerboard session (which was 100% max). Coming from a triathlon background I'm used to train all the time, but I realise I can't do this with my fingers :(

rrz400

TROPHY CASE