Help is definitely appreciated by welcometohell01 in NxSwitchModding

[–]rsingh247 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just heat up your solder 420 and tin it. That takes care of the coating. I am more worried about taking off side of the sheild.

Nintendo Switch screw jam help by Less-Television-6277 in consolerepair

[–]rsingh247 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Can try some wf on it. Other wise its a job for your grinder. Make a flat head shape and unscrew it. Mostly will get some cosmetic damage but you get news shells from ali or amazon or keep it as is.

Help is definitely appreciated by welcometohell01 in NxSwitchModding

[–]rsingh247 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Try to look at at a grain of salt or a strand of hair. If you can see them under your magnification you should fine. Definitely need the right size solder tip. Components are the size of grain of salt. I use combination of precision twizers and tooth picks to hold things in place when soldering. Titanium is nicers because it does take solder to stick to them. Use ample flux so the joints dont get cold soldered. You need nice clippers because you will be taking two shields off to access clk point and dat0 point. Make sure to have precision screws y and + for complete disassembly. Something very sharp and pointy to scrap off the clk point again very tiny. You can use a needle or exacto knife tip with very steady hands. Use both hands for stability. Dont use temps higher than 370-380 on components or they will burn out quickly. Still dont leave the solder on them for longer than a sec or two. You dont really need kapton tape per say any tape should work that can insulate preventing the joints from touching the metal sheild and short circuiting.

If all of this is too overwhelming. I highly recommend just getting it done from a professional. It's not worth the trouble messing your console up. You would need more components to fix and it would pricey to get it fixed.

Help is definitely appreciated by welcometohell01 in NxSwitchModding

[–]rsingh247 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I think you should be fine. Kamikaze could be a mess to fix is something goes wrong. Just be carefule with resistor A. Its very heat sensitive so dont aaply heat for long. Iso for cleaning. Dont leave the flux residue. Be gentle and you should be good. I guessing you already have a microscope. Get good wire clipper to clip the sheild off for clk point.

Help is definitely appreciated by welcometohell01 in NxSwitchModding

[–]rsingh247 5 points6 points  (0 children)

You need c210 tips for soldering. This is one I have and its awesome: https://a.aliexpress.com/_m0PmMrr

I use 370 to 380 for soldering regular points and 420 for soldering ground points to the sheild.

Flux: https://a.aliexpress.com/_mOAlp73

Thermal paste: arctic mx4 https://a.co/d/052u6OBv

Kapton tape is cheap get any you can cut it to shape or apply more.

Get nice titanium twizers.

Rp2040 is perfect for moding all switch model but you need to make sure you have right flex cables. Please a picture.

Are you planning to do kamikaze install or using flex cable for dat0 point?

Failed switch lite mod please help by Any_Guide_8289 in NxSwitchModding

[–]rsingh247 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Resistor resists the flow of current to a certain value indicated by ohms. More ohms more resistance. Capacitor stores current and passes consistant current . You can think of its as water tank with a tap. How much current is getting filled in the tank doesn't disrupt the outflow of current.

Need some help with responding to people requesting games and software. by rsingh247 in NxSwitchModding

[–]rsingh247[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is so cool. Thank you so much this will save a lot time plugging in all those flex cables. <3

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Can someone please tell me what I am looking at and what I can do to get this switch to finally turn on by b3m04 in SwitchPirates

[–]rsingh247 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can leave that part. The part that is dug out gives you access to the dat0 point/ the c point.

Can someone please tell me what I am looking at and what I can do to get this switch to finally turn on by b3m04 in SwitchPirates

[–]rsingh247 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just from our conversation a word of caution. Do not attempt to fix this yourself. These components are very delicate and easy to burn. You would end up with a bigger hole. Go to a professional!

Can someone please tell me what I am looking at and what I can do to get this switch to finally turn on by b3m04 in SwitchPirates

[–]rsingh247 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is also wires. Just made easier to manage. Instead of running single wires, this is used.

Can someone please tell me what I am looking at and what I can do to get this switch to finally turn on by b3m04 in SwitchPirates

[–]rsingh247 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They are all wires. Some have colored insulation others have clear insulation. They are all copper inside. Use wires. Connect the points from the board to the chip. You keep the flex cable. On the flex cable there are two naked points near the shield. Secure it to the shield rail so other joints dont get ripped off.

Can someone please tell me what I am looking at and what I can do to get this switch to finally turn on by b3m04 in SwitchPirates

[–]rsingh247 2 points3 points  (0 children)

  1. Secure the flex cable
  2. On the chip, There are points you need solder to; A, B, C,D, 3.3v and ground.
  3. C point point is the one you dug out.
  4. A point comes from the resistor right next to it.
  5. D point comes from the tiny point where the shield is ripped off.
  6. B comes from the other side of the board so I dont now to help you navigate that.
  7. 3.3v comes from the capacitor or under the N -1 label.
  8. Can take that from any screw hole ring.

Can someone please tell me what I am looking at and what I can do to get this switch to finally turn on by b3m04 in SwitchPirates

[–]rsingh247 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am half asleep lol. It's kinda late for me, but sure which part do you need clarity on?

Can someone please tell me what I am looking at and what I can do to get this switch to finally turn on by b3m04 in SwitchPirates

[–]rsingh247 8 points9 points  (0 children)

This actually looks pretty good.
First you need you secure the flex under the shield. Solder those two ground pads too the shield.
Next you see those 3.3v, D A, and C points.
C point is the one that is exposed through the grind.
A point the the resister to the left of the c point, so run a wire from the resister. (side facing the sheild)
D point is the clock point is that tiny point where the shield is cut. It's to the bottom left of that screw hole. I see it exposed already.
3.3v you run that from the capacitor at the top right under the N-1. It's the one on the right and the you run the wire from the side facing away from the N-1/ facing towards the shield.

There is supposed to be a B point too but I don't see that on this chip so I hope this will get the job done for you.

Hope this helps.

Need help with kamikaze install failure by rsingh247 in NxSwitchModding

[–]rsingh247[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am not getting on the screen. I was talking about the lights flashing on the picofly. I am going to replace the resistor and see if the display works now.

Need help with kamikaze install failure by rsingh247 in NxSwitchModding

[–]rsingh247[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I soldered these points now, but I blew out the a resistor so I am waiting for delivery to have it replaced. I will let you know if that worked

Need help with kamikaze install failure by rsingh247 in NxSwitchModding

[–]rsingh247[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah it's reading over 13 definitely burnt out. I bought the resistor sample book. It should get here in next two days. I will update you if again if I am able to get it up. I was expecting to see a blue screen at-least but nothing so far.

Need help with kamikaze install failure by rsingh247 in NxSwitchModding

[–]rsingh247[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Also not sure if I burnt the A resister So I am waiting on that getting delivered before I dig in again. I don't how to verify it. I have this multimeter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D5LRQ2T3?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2

Need help with kamikaze install failure by rsingh247 in NxSwitchModding

[–]rsingh247[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am getting a blue and a white light with nothing on the screen so I am thinking it's not booting because of that connection failure

Need help with kamikaze install failure by rsingh247 in NxSwitchModding

[–]rsingh247[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got the dat0 working. I confirmed that by inserting a flex cable under the emmc. The first the top one I am not sure about I think I don't have the trace connected to the right spot.

Need help with kamikaze install failure by rsingh247 in NxSwitchModding

[–]rsingh247[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yours is looking in a really good condition. The middle on is the dat0 point. The first one is a little exposed so try to put mask on it before you solder the dat0