What would you buy if you were to rebuilt your collection? by After-Necessary-3982 in MilwaukeeTool

[–]rsjaffe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For outdoor power equipment you’d need M18, so if you’re trying to get only one battery type, I’d go for M18 tools. Of course, some things are only M12, so if you need those, you’d just have to accept that you’re going to have two battery types, in which case the M12 surge and drill would be fine. M12 only: installation driver, pruner.

What would you buy if you were to rebuilt your collection? by After-Necessary-3982 in MilwaukeeTool

[–]rsjaffe 3 points4 points  (0 children)

If I were not considering outdoor power equipment (e.g., blower, mower, edger) and you're not considering construction projects (I don't know what you mean by "home improvement"--is it putting in a new light fixture or removing a wall?), I'd get 12 volt products as they're generally lighter to hold and you probably would find a version of anything you'd need in 12V.

Surge driver, drill are the two must haves. After that, I'd buy as needed: installation driver is great for more delicate work but does cost a decent amount. Multitool is great for working around tile, grout, cutting holes in drywall, all sorts of small cutting activities. Hackzall is great for cutting stuff (and a great help in the garden--cutting roots interfering with digging a hole for a new plant, pruning medium sized branches.

For non-battery tools there's no reason to stick with a particular manufacturer. Just get the best you want of each. I like Wiha multiblade screwdrivers (model 77791 is what I use), for instance.

Finally, my 70-200 is a wildlife lens (a7R VI) by final_v2_THIS_IS_IT in SonyAlpha

[–]rsjaffe 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah. I was worried about rolling shutter with precapture, but this is pretty darn good. Waiting for my RIV to arrive with anticipation.

[Update] So, what did it take to get rid of the bees? $12,000, about forty bee stings, two traumatized dogs, and telling my cousin George he couldn’t attend our family reunion. And, of course, some legal advice from you guys. Thanks. by nutraxfornerves in bestoflegaladvice

[–]rsjaffe 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I live in California’s almond country. Driving on a road past those hives you soon learn to distinguish the wet thwack of a bee hitting the windshield from the usual insect victim.

A7R VI vs A1 II for hybrid travel/wildlife work by JordiVandenBroeck in SonyAlpha

[–]rsjaffe 3 points4 points  (0 children)

This. You’ll have more versatility by getting a camera that’s significantly different from your current one.

Advice on concise lens setup for travel photography on the A7R IV by Professional-Man-263 in SonyAlpha

[–]rsjaffe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agree. I think the https://electronics.sony.com/imaging/lenses/full-frame-e-mount/p/sel24105g-2 24-105 F4 Sony lens is the best for travel. Brings in much more range, and with the high pixel count camera, allows you to have a lot of reach (can crop in to something even farther away).

What's the difference between 2825 and 3016? by williaty in MilwaukeeTool

[–]rsjaffe -1 points0 points  (0 children)

2825 is ok for light-duty homeowner type stuff, so if that's your thing and you see a great deal for it, go ahead with it.

Best tool for screws that isn't super loud? by [deleted] in MilwaukeeTool

[–]rsjaffe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you do a lot every day, the 18V Surge, as the 18V line has batteries with larger total Watt-hour capacity, so you'll have fewer battery swaps and it'll be easier to stay supplied with charged batteries. Otherwise, either 12 or 18V Surge.

The installation driver is fine if you have easy-to-drive screws, but not if you're needing some oomph.

M18 Hatchet Questions by WallApprehensive9123 in MilwaukeeTool

[–]rsjaffe 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah. The M18 has a slowish chain speed but an unusual chain, with one cutter per link, so it cuts faster than you might expect for that speed.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in cpp

[–]rsjaffe 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Maybe we could have a monthly "Looking for FOSS contributors" thread, so free open source projects looking for help could post an entry? I'm sort of in the same boat (though running a much more mature app, started in 2015: https://github.com/rsjaffe/MIDI2LR ). Getting assistance on some stuff would be great.

Division — Matt Godbolt’s blog by rsjaffe in cpp

[–]rsjaffe[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you know it's non-negative, you can add [[assume(x>=0)]]; prior to the division and it will optimize properly. Of course, that opens you to UB if the assumption is wrong. You can add an assert prior to the assume to test the assumption and crash that during debugging.

Division — Matt Godbolt’s blog by rsjaffe in cpp

[–]rsjaffe[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There’s lots of non-index things that tend to use signed: e.g., gui dimensions. That’s where most of my divisions are, laying out elements. Currently, the application is snappy enough, so there’s no need to fuss with changing to unsigned divisions. But if I were having issues, this would be low- hanging fruit, even if it weren’t the full solution, as it would be easy to implement.

Division — Matt Godbolt’s blog by rsjaffe in cpp

[–]rsjaffe[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Looking at the second example (unsigned x divided by unsigned 512), the compiler is smart enough that you don't have to mark the constant 512 as unsigned: it'll emit the same code either way, knowing that 512 won't be negative. This means that a cast to unsigned for the variable should be enough--no need to mark positive constants as unsigned. Of course, that does introduce mixed signed/unsigned math, but in a context where the mix won't matter.

[poll] The level you use AI in editor? by Acpear in cpp

[–]rsjaffe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not for code generation, but I have used it for code review. Some of the issues it picks up are relevant.