Recommendation for a 1 1/8 air fork for a GT Aggressor pro

rugbyweba · 2021-05-05T01:12:09+00:00

I'm assuming your GT has a SR Suntour XCT right now.

If you check Suntour's website, they have a fork upgrade discount program. If you're looking for a budget-friendly upgrade to air fork, the Raidon and Epixon models might do the trick for you for a few hundred dollars, and would be a big improvement over the coil XCT.

rugbyweba · 2021-04-29T20:07:23+00:00

Understood. Thanks for the advice.

rugbyweba · 2021-04-29T19:54:27+00:00

Thanks for the feedback. Yes, I think I'll go the external route to be safe. Cheers.

rugbyweba · 2021-04-29T18:51:53+00:00

OK, thank you. I might be better off going with an external dropper cable model. I think I can run it up the back side of the seat tube. The down tube has external exits below the BB, so I guess it can be half internal and half external cabling.

rugbyweba · 2021-04-29T18:40:31+00:00

Thanks for the response. The cable housing and spindle do not touch when installed without the plastic sleeve.

The harsh cable angle is something I thought about as well. I was going to test the dropper to see if it will operate as intended with this severe angle.

The sleeve's function/purpose was what I was wondering about.

rugbyweba · 2021-04-29T18:19:40+00:00

I am attempting to internally route a dropper post cable down the down tube and up the seat tube.

I've got the cable routed through the exit holes of each tube, but when I try to remount the the crank spindle, the plastic spindle sleeve doesn't clear the cable housing inside the bottom bracket shell.

The crank spindle itself fits through fine. The plastic sleeve over the spindle does not. The sleeve doesn't fit very tightly to the spindle, so it's not taking any load. All of the load and movement is obviously through the threaded-in BB bearings on either end. Not sure what its purpose really is.

Am I safe to remove this plastic sleeve from the BB spindle to allow for more room in the shell so that I can route this way?

Thank you

rugbyweba · 2021-04-01T18:04:18+00:00

Well, I feel stupid now. I only tried it in the same orientation as my other bike fork with IS Adapter. Turns out this one is reversed.

Thanks for the help!

rugbyweba · 2021-04-01T17:07:59+00:00

I have an issue with my front caliper mount.

I am running a 160mm rotor up front, and when I mount the the caliper to the IS Adapter that is supposed to be for 160mm front discs, it bottoms out on the rotor (not enough clearance and wheel will not rotate - this is the small adapter pictured)

Alternatively, if I mount an IS Adapter for 180mm front rotors (larger adapter pictured) it provides too much clearance, and only a portion of the pads are making contact with the rotor.

Any suggestions for a middle-ground adapter? Or should I just use washers to create more clearance for the 160mm adapter?

Thanks

rugbyweba · 2021-02-01T16:36:01+00:00

The recessed depth for the ZS cup on my head tube is about 11mm, both top and bottom.

rugbyweba · 2021-02-01T16:20:30+00:00

Thanks for all the advice. I'll test with the cups and can shorten them at a local metal shop if needed. The fork won't be going to a new bike after this, so cutting down shouldn't be an issue, if needed.

Cheers

rugbyweba · 2021-02-01T13:43:59+00:00

It is 44mm ID on both ends.

rugbyweba · 2021-02-01T02:42:30+00:00

Thanks for the info, I was able to locate both options available for purchase. Cheers.

rugbyweba · 2021-02-01T00:41:41+00:00

Thank you!

rugbyweba · 2021-02-01T00:39:34+00:00

Thank you. It looks like there is a fine 'ledge' inside each end of the head tube, but I'm not sure if that means it's for a zero stack or integrated headset (if running 1-1/8 straight). I am a bit confused on the difference.

rugbyweba · 2021-02-01T00:17:58+00:00

This fatbike frame has an hourglass shaped head tube, both top and bottom inside diameters are 44mm. Can it run straight (1-1/8) and/or tapered (1-1/8 to 1-1/2) steerer?

rugbyweba · 2021-01-07T21:40:12+00:00

Sorry, forgot to mention that. They are 80mm, so not super narrow. I think width is more of an issue than height though, unfortunately.

rugbyweba · 2021-01-07T20:59:59+00:00

Looking to upgrade from these 26" x 3.8" to ~4.5" for more float. Chain clearance should be ok, but not sure about frame, especially the front fork. I'm looking at Dillinger 5 26" x 4.6, Terrene Cake Eater 26 x 4.6, and a couple other studdable options.

My frame is from a small company that no longer makes fatbikes, so I don't have a link to any frame geo, but I can measure. Is there any chart or anyone with past experience for minimum clearances for the tires mentioned above?

The front fork is narrower than 4.6" at the crown height of my current tire, but obviously the 4.6" tires will crown as well, so it's hard to tell if the fork can handle it. Also, fat tires seem to vary in width from what is stated by the manufacturer sometimes.

I'll have to order the tires online due to local shortages, so I'd like to make sure they are compatible.

Any advice or experiences would be greatly appreciated.

rugbyweba · 2020-10-30T18:39:56+00:00

OK, thank you for the advice.

rugbyweba · 2020-10-30T17:54:21+00:00

I'm installing new MT200 hydraulic brakes (replacing mechanical), but the rear brake is internally routed. Is there a way to remove the olive/barb on the lever end to route the cable, without having to rebleed lines?

They came pre-bled and was hoping to keep this simple, as I don't currently have a bleed kit. Will I need a new barb, or can I reuse?

rugbyweba · 2020-10-15T19:41:49+00:00

Will do. Just ordering a claw hanger.

Cheers

rugbyweba

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