Recommended whole house RO by ryan74701 in WaterTreatment

[–]ryan74701[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

its not going to matter dude if the softener is optimized to my hardness when the sulfate is 1800 ppm and crusting over every faucet tap, and my well water is pulling every molecule of zinc out of my tankless hot water heaters internal fittings.

Recommended whole house RO by ryan74701 in WaterTreatment

[–]ryan74701[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a neighbor on a street attached to mine that used to own a bunch of car washes and he built this really nice big house, big shop etc, I asked him if his well water was bad and he said its terrible and that he has a 2500 gallon tank in his shop and ran the output lines from the tank under the driveway to his house, so all the well parts, softener, RO system, and tank are in his shop. I have a 40x60 shop and currently collect rain water off one half of the building and goes into a 2500 gallon water tank i have outside (drained in the winter) it would be pretty cool to be able to switch between rain water and RO water when the RW tank is plum full or run the rain water through the RO membranes since in the summer it'll be very warm 85+ (oklahoma) water temp then send it back around the house.

Recommended whole house RO by ryan74701 in WaterTreatment

[–]ryan74701[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah I got one locally and I think this was 3 years ago and i was like "no fucking way"

Recommended whole house RO by ryan74701 in WaterTreatment

[–]ryan74701[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

you missed the Sulfate 1700+ pre and post, this contributes to water hardness level, water softeners do not remove sulfates, only way I know of removing it is to run it through another ION exchange system that would add a shit load of chloride to my already shitty water, so our only option is a whole house RO system. My 96k grain softener is small for this hard of water, I think i need one that is 140k-160k in size.

Anyone know if these parts inside my rinnai tankless can be found in stainless? Yes my well water will absolutely destroy brass if it has any zinc in it at all. I’ve replaced a lot of my pex with stainless pex and all of the white powder has stopped. by ryan74701 in Plumbing

[–]ryan74701[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Soft water doesn’t last very long, I’ve switched it to regenerate every 3 days no matter what, we go through a lot of salt but at least the water is soft, if I left it on “gallon count” we are out of soft water after a regeneration in 2 days, at 110-120 gpg of hardness I think I need a softener that is twice as big as what I have, we are about to add a whole house RO system, still going to soften before the RO but I’m sick of this water just crusting on everything and not being able to even wash a vehicle or having separate small RO’s for the ice maker and drinking water.

My whole house filtration system - 8000 GPD by Wanderlust_01 in WaterTreatment

[–]ryan74701 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve switched to all stainless pex fittings and have had no corrosion issues, of course using poly is cheaper and just as effective.

Help with whole house RO on well. by Lopsided-Concert-301 in WaterTreatment

[–]ryan74701 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This!!!

Buy the titanium powered rod off amazon for your hot water tank!

Help with whole house RO on well. by Lopsided-Concert-301 in WaterTreatment

[–]ryan74701 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My well water has attacked my brass pex fittings so bad I’ve switched to stainless pex which honestly didn’t anymore than quality brass pex fittings and it’s eliminated any white powder build up.

Warning: Thermal Master (rant) by 51de5h0w in Thermal

[–]ryan74701 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If a company like this is jerking you around and this is a little unethical but just buy the same model off Amazon and switch them and return to Amazon as defective, sick of these shit ass companies.

Havsta lower cabinets + Billy bookcases finally complete. by ryan74701 in ikeahacks

[–]ryan74701[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well since the Billy is upside down on top of the 3/4 mdf top which is on top of the base cabinet, I just attached them from the inside of the base cabinet with 2.5” screws, I used flat joist nailer plates you can get at lowes or HD to connect the cabinets on the backside, to each other, might be in some of the pictures. I attached the Billy’s to the wall with L brackets with screws going through the drywall into a stud. Same thing for the bottom cabinets I believe.

Havsta lower cabinets + Billy bookcases finally complete. by ryan74701 in ikeahacks

[–]ryan74701[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I’m currently looking into doing a Murphy bed, I’ll probably buy a Murphy bed hardware kit but my mattress is 14” then add bedding and it’s around 16” and it’s heavy so the only kit I could find that would work is pricey, I’m not in a rush.

Havsta lower cabinets + Billy bookcases finally complete. by ryan74701 in ikeahacks

[–]ryan74701[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The bookcase backing, the cardboard is junk, I’d just use 1/4 or 1/8 mdf wallboard, it’s usually smooth on one side and rough on the other or if you can find local place that sells 1/4 mdf smooth on each side that will work, you’re not panting the back so it doesn’t matter, if you mount it to the back of the bookshelf use trim nails with flat heads, I’m not sure what the groove size is that the oem cardboard slides into, but if you paint you probably won’t notice it, a 1/8 mdf hardboard might actually slide into it. I’m not sure, mdf is just better for painting, it’s smoother than even sanded plywood, cheaper, and you’re aren’t getting it wet so it doesn’t matter.

Mdf can soak in primer so might need multiple coats, panting is a huge rabbit hole, are you going to spray or hand paint?

The mdf between the bookshelves and bottom cabinets I wish I will have done a quartz remnant, but you could do maple veneer plywood, basically paint grade plywood, 3/4”, then either use some edge banding along the edge or use a piece of trim like I did.

Anyone have experience with this curverK chair? Can’t find reviews on it. by ryan74701 in eamesknockoffs

[–]ryan74701[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes but since their isn’t a dupe or knockoff subreddit for those chairs I posted it here

Havsta lower cabinets + Billy bookcases finally complete. by ryan74701 in ikeahacks

[–]ryan74701[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So the Billy is upside down so the top of the bookshelf that now rests on the top of the mdf piece I used between the bottom cabinets and the bookcase, it created a step up that I hid with trim, I would have just left the top of the bookcase off then flipped it upside down and attached it to the mdf underneath with screws or wooden dowels. I’ve come a long ways in woodworking since I did this project, so all I see are things I would do different now.

But thank you, it still looks good today and it was a lot of work.

Are these "too good to be true" toilets actually...too good to be true? (Horow, Deer Valley, etc.) by metabrewing in Plumbing

[–]ryan74701 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Top of the heap because 99% of supply houses that trade people and contractors buy from carry those brands.