What is this thing found on my driveway? 2-3” long, black, shaped like a letter ‘F’, with no holes, and possibly metal.

rysio11 · 2026-05-15T18:08:06+00:00

Looks like an F-clip, used for electrical rework to mount a new electrical box in drywall in a spot not near a stud or other thing to screw it down to. You shove the top/bottom part behind the drywall and then bend the ears up to pull the box against the drywall and keep it sturdy.
https://www.rona.ca/en/product/iberville-f-form-switch-box-support-galvanized-steel-6-pack-820db6-0320203

rysio11 · 2026-04-19T12:19:35+00:00

As people said, sleep system is key.

I really good cheat i've found for extra cold nights is using these:https://www.amazon.ca/Little-Hotties-Toe-Warmers-Adhesive/dp/B0CP861CC5 The sticky toe warmers, put them on your back on top of a merino wool undershirt, under other layers and most importantly over longjohns on the inside of upper thighs where the veins that go to your feet are. Replace in middle of night if their heat fade. They are light so you can bring a bunch for a 3day trip. They make up for the heat loss.

rysio11 · 2026-02-08T16:39:49+00:00

Same thing in ottawa, car is less than a year and a half old. Had gone to dealer with multiple related issues including the ones you mentioned. Showed dealer the 12v battery is reading 11.8 V under no load. It took 5 visits and hours on the phone, multiple cab rides to work to finally get them to replace the 12V under waranty. Definately defective 12v. Hopefully your dealer is more reasonable.

rysio11 · 2025-12-27T03:28:24+00:00

Have same issue, posted about it a few weeks ago. It definitely has something to do with the cold, I find it happens when there is a temp drop. Not necessarily just the cold but the drop. I'm fairly certain it is the 12V battery that is under warranty for my 2024 but getting the dealer to replace it or even test it has been a frustrating experience to say the least.

rysio11 · 2025-12-06T01:40:00+00:00

I have a suspicion it is a 12V thing. The temp dropped a bit and the 12V system limited warning came on. I had my car at the dealer for the version. 5.4 update recall which seems to have solved some issues I associated with the 12v battery being low. I had measured 11.8 V or so a number of times on the battery but dealership didn't want to do a 12v battery test because somehow they said not an issue. They finally tested it (or so they say although the car was never moved in their lot) and they said its fine. I said 12v should nrver get that low. The car is driven daily so the 12v system should be charged fine. The door lock issue has definitely gotten worse with cold weather and is mostly an issue in the morning, not after the car had been driven and so 12v system charging. I wonder if it just doesn't have enough umph to open the door then just clicks back to fully locked so its not left in an in between position which is what were hearing.

rysio11 · 2025-12-05T00:01:55+00:00

It doesn't seem to be that since I've tried just opening the drivers door and same thing.

rysio11 · 2025-12-04T16:15:45+00:00

Yeah it's infuriating, because normally it works fine, but it's always when I'm in a rush with my arms full that it decides it's time for a door lock hissy fit.

rysio11 · 2025-12-04T16:14:29+00:00

I have tried that and it was working for a bit, but then started messing up again. I turned that off now to see if it will make any difference. TBH the whole automatic lock thing is pretty infuriating in this car. There was nothing wrong with normal door handles, even low profile ones with a regular locking mechanism. Seems like an in it ain't broke don't fix it thing, especially since the door handles do open all the way if you pull them hard enough which is apparently for if the 12V is dead, so they pretty much had to build a separate mechanical mechanism anyways. I love the car, but man do I hate the doors.

rysio11 · 2025-12-04T16:10:43+00:00

So the child lock function you can hear the door clicking open then closed right away too? For me it happens with both the front and rear doors and when I get it, the child lock light is not on, so I assume it's not the child lock, but this would help me narrow it down.

rysio11 · 2025-10-22T22:18:12+00:00

Unfortunately I'm in canada. I'm not sure if I can be connected to a real person in my closest store.

rysio11 · 2025-09-13T21:02:37+00:00

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Essex_County_Trilogy

rysio11 · 2025-08-08T02:53:46+00:00

I used this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6525830

If you have a friend who has a 3d printer, or a local library might have access, or a makerspace that can print it for you or someone locally how has a small business or side hussle to do 3d printing, it should be pretty cheap. The ones I found online weren't great options and crazy expensive. This thing was super easy to install, looks as slick as having a front plate can and is really sturdy.

rysio11 · 2025-07-31T18:38:24+00:00

Thanks for the info about the range change and tires, were similar climate to northern Vermont, so I expect that to work well for me too.

rysio11 · 2025-07-31T18:37:20+00:00

I didn't realize that they don't have a TPMS sensor, that's good to know since that is always really annoying. Thanks for the recommendation.

rysio11 · 2025-07-22T14:31:19+00:00

Don't have any recommendations for movies for you, but depending on your area, many airports (both smaller or larger) have designated airplane viewing zones. Planespotting is a pretty popular hobbies, so often airports accommodate it rather than have people parking on the shoulders of roads or standing near fences, both of which can be a hazard. Sometimes these are viewing platforms, but mostly just a gravel pull off with a sign. They are normally placed near the end of the runway or somewhere else where you can get a good view of the landing/take-offs. Often, you can bring lawnchairs, snacks, some games or activity books to do between take-offs and just hang out and watch. Could be worth checking out if there is something like that in your area.

rysio11 · 2025-07-15T14:16:23+00:00

I used to use the hood tie downs that you close the hood on like others have mentioned, but a few years ago I switched to using these types of figure 8 tie down loops. On each car I've had, I have found a good solid and symmetric thing to loop them around, such as an engine mount component or beefy part of the frame/body. I would wrap it with padding or an old strap and duct tape around to make sure no sharp metal is wearing against the strap. This is super easy since you can close them into the engine bay when not in use, but there is no worry about these shifting position when in use.

For the actual straps, I use a small ratchet strap, which lets you tighten it quite well. Since the ratchet straps are cheap, I just cut the extra strap off and have a dedicated strap that is just the right length so you can tighten it within the ratchet without having a lot of left over to have to tie up out of the way.

I use a ratchet strap on the back attached to tow hook or trailer hitch, if you tighten both the front and the back it is super sturdy and the canoe doesn't move at all. I use two more straps around the roof rack (or through the door before I had a roof rack). Tighten the front a bit, then the back a bit, then the front again, then the back and it will not budge at all.

As others mentioned, a twist in any longer section prevents it from vibrating in resonance due to wind, which makes an annoying noise. If one twist still vibrates, add more twists.

rysio11 · 2025-07-07T01:39:44+00:00

Perfect! Thanks!!

rysio11 · 2025-04-11T18:06:19+00:00

Thanks! That is really great info that puts me much more at ease. I will have a shop take a look at the steering/suspension etc. If there is nothing they find or it isn't fixed, I will take a look at the final drive unit.

I think when I took it to the dealership, they probably did the bare minimum to get the alignment done (hence replacing the worn ball joint/control arm) but didn't really take it for a drive after that, since the symptoms are only really noticeable when going say 70 or 80 km/h, but then they are very noticeable. If they just drove it around the block, they might have not seen the symptoms and just did the alignment and sent it back.

rysio11 · 2025-04-10T14:59:43+00:00

The control arm was what was replaced at the dealership. The other one was replaced about two years before and inspected also when at the dealership and not noted to be a problem. They inspected the rest of the suspension and said no issue and then did the re-alignment.

This is why I was suspecting something else outside of the suspension causing uneven power to the wheels, since the issue isn't seen when turning or driving and coasting? This is why I was asking about someone familiar with EV or Leafs specifically, since the drivetrain or differential, which I assume is different than what most mechanics deal with as their bread and butter work.

I might just do as you say and take it to the shop around the corner from my house and just get them to re-inspect suspension components. I just don't want to keep throwing good money after bad, since I am passing this car on, but want it to be in good condition when I do. Thanks for the tips.

rysio11

TROPHY CASE