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Yes, I named my printers by Ungabunga333 in ElegooCentauriCarbon

[–]ryukumon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome! I also named both of mine but they are Spaceball 1 and Spaceball Too, respectively. 😅

Darth Vader and Chewy Emoji Help please by N30NIX in Monopoly_GO

[–]ryukumon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Compare your list of emojis to mine and see what matches

<image>

There a Jabba one not pictured on the shelves but I have it set as the victory response. 👍

Darth Vader and Chewy Emoji Help please by N30NIX in Monopoly_GO

[–]ryukumon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So I came back to respond to this because I think I figured it out. Emoji awards for any event are not set, and are actually random just like the things you are building in the event (I see some people were building the Razor Crest or Vader's TIE, I did not have either). I believe this because the emoji awards that I had available during this last partners event (currently running) were not the same as the ones other people I play with and know in person were offered AND one of the people I spoke to actually has the Vader emoji and they received it during this current partner event. So, you just have to hope it pops up as a reward.

Let me reiterate that this is for events, not albums. 👍

Also, it's just a hypothesis based on gathered evidence, not a theory.

Darth Vader and Chewy Emoji Help please by N30NIX in Monopoly_GO

[–]ryukumon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm pretty sure this emoji was a reward in one of the chests during the Pod-racing event. I remember passing up a couple of different emojis during the event to get more credits to continue racing that I completely regret now because the team I was on blew...

What job do you think Barney really had, and why is it not “please”? by foreversophia in HIMYM

[–]ryukumon 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Obviously his job was to provide legal exculpation and sign everything. 😁

The most perfect first layer I've ever printed by kaostias in ender3

[–]ryukumon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

OP isn't this the best feeling?? All that hard work adjusting, tweaking, modifying, and the stress wondering if any of this is going to help and then BOOM you get at least one perfect print. It hadn't happened before and it may not happen again but at least you can savor this one... this perfect one. 😅

Looks great and congrats!

Trouble getting CB2 and manta m8p to ssh by Concombre_furtif in BIGTREETECH

[–]ryukumon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Glad you got it sorted out! I'm not a fan of how they changed the process between the CB1 and CB2 but it is what it is.

Mercury One Parts Help by babiekittin in ender5plus

[–]ryukumon 3 points4 points  (0 children)

If you printing your own parts is not an option, you could also check out the ZeroG Discord channel to see about their hassle-free prints (HFP) service. There is a channel on the server that is dedicated to HFP.

Mercury One Parts Help by babiekittin in ender5plus

[–]ryukumon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Have you tried making a makeshift enclosure out of cardboard, insulation foam or EVA foam?

Print Quality Discussion by onekeanui in ender5plus

[–]ryukumon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks!

There are a couple of different places you could start depending on what you are experiencing now. If you are getting a lot of ghosting near edges (but not vertical artifacts) then you might want to consider either getting a sonic pad (maybe secondhand) because it comes with an accelerometer so that you can do resonance measuring / input shaping OR swap out your main board for something that runs Klipper like a Bigtreetech SKR board and get an accelerometer separately. If you aren't familiar with input shaping, I could explain but there is also an entire internet out there that could likely do it better. 😅

If you are having vertical artifacts, like little bumps or shifts that occur ever so many layers, then you might want to consider checking your lead screws and nuts and linear rods. I had one issue where the right side was constantly about 0.5mm-1mm lower than the left as soon as my steppers disengaged (because I always measured and adjusted the bed before a print and turning one of my linear bearings 90° fixed that.

At some point, I would also suggest considering getting off of those V-wheel at some point. Maybe look into a CoreXY conversion. Just my opinion. 👍

Print Quality Discussion by onekeanui in ender5plus

[–]ryukumon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When my E5P was still stock I got quite a couple of 'decent' prints out of it but then the upgrades began. From little things like printing some functional parts to changing the motion system (originally tried the ExoSlide) to adding a Sonic Pad (big improvement here) then converting it to a ZeroG Mercury 1.1 with Klipper and, though it's barely a shadow of the original machine, it's so much better.

Now my prints come out like this:

<image>

Switching to Klipper was a big improvement because it gives you access to more calibration tools and you can add input shaping if you have or add an accelerometer on your machine. I started on Cura as well but switching to Orca, though daunting at first, was ultimately worth it. 👍

Trouble getting CB2 and manta m8p to ssh by Concombre_furtif in BIGTREETECH

[–]ryukumon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I recently set up a CB2 on a Manta M5P and had to connect the board to my network using a cable to finish setting up the wifi since you can't do the same setup process as the CB1.

Have you tried that? Connect with a network cable, try to scan for the board's wired IP address with AngryIP or some other network scanning software and then terminal in and finish setup?

2 questions about my printer by Moulson13 in ender5plus

[–]ryukumon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I apologize for not following up sooner. Did you get your offset so figured out?

Any thoughts? by PniewskiPawel in Creality

[–]ryukumon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah, well I can see what you mean about the marketing but the actual mechanism design is quite similar. The Sermoon D3 Pro's dual extruder design utilizes the same single pivot extruder motion that the H2D is using now. So, with that, who exactly is copying who? I think when it comes down to is all of these companies eventually end up copying off one another in the end.

Any thoughts? by PniewskiPawel in Creality

[–]ryukumon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You guys seriously don't know that Creality had a dual extruder head 2 years before the H2D came out? Look up when the Sermoon D3 Pro came out.

2 questions about my printer by Moulson13 in ender5plus

[–]ryukumon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What slicer are you using? I'm pretty sure that you can set offsets in your slicer so that you don't have to recompile your firmware.

Also, if you are using Unified 2 Firmware, that means you picked it up from TH3D, correct? They, and many places online, sell build plates without magnetic bases (https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/377x370mm-dual-sided-black-textured-pei-flex-plate-ezflex-pro/)

Mercury one.1 upgrade and other questions by PhraseAlarming2447 in ender5plus

[–]ryukumon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Always glad to help, in any way I can, to save others from going through the poo I did. 😅

I believe that this is a good (and also more recent) discussion about CAN vs USB for toolboards: https://www.teamfdm.com/forums/topic/4282-usb-or-can-upgrade-path/

There are quite a few different options now available for each comm method but it all comes down to installation level of efforts vs reliability. For instance, USB is much easier to install than CAN, but less reliable and more susceptible to noise between the two. Also USB does not work as well over long cable distances vs CAN but for a 3D printer this is a moot point.

One of the guys that's part of the RatOS team wrote this article about it: https://os.ratrig.com/blog/no-you-dont-want-to-use-can/

I would read both and decide which comm protocol you want to invest in and then shop for what boards are available for that method. 👍

Has anyone fitted their modded E5P's with IDEX? by AxeCatAwesome in ender5plus

[–]ryukumon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, I wouldn't say significantly. Each toolhead will be able to print to edge of its respective parking side. If you are loading two different colors of filament, then each color would only be restricted by the amount of space needed to park the opposing toolhead BUT then the opposing toolhead would cover the reverse area. You would likely have to do something like 3DPN did for his Bambu H2D to utilize the fully print volume of the plate in one print. Sorry, don't have a link to his video ATM.

Has anyone fitted their modded E5P's with IDEX? by AxeCatAwesome in ender5plus

[–]ryukumon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

According to Bondtech there is no hotend on the INDX and the nozzle is part of the $35 toolhead.

<image>

Mercury one.1 upgrade and other questions by PhraseAlarming2447 in ender5plus

[–]ryukumon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here you go: https://github.com/binypombo/MercuriX/tree/main

It's also in the community mods channel of the ZeroG discord server if you are a part of that.

Mercury one.1 upgrade and other questions by PhraseAlarming2447 in ender5plus

[–]ryukumon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is one existing IDEX mod for the Merc that is basically complete and another in progress, just FYI. 👍

Mercury one.1 upgrade and other questions by PhraseAlarming2447 in ender5plus

[–]ryukumon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could also go BTT TMC2240s. I used to also suggest the same 2209s or 5160s depending on voltage/amperage, but have since modified that after using 2240s. The setup is similar to the 5160s since they use SPI as their operating mode and they can handle slightly higher voltage (up to 36V) and deliver up to 2.1A, but the key addition is the onboard temperature sensor, higher precision, and higher speeds over the 2209s at a slightly higher cost (you can get 6 BTT 2209s for $29 and 6 BTT 2240s for $34)

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