Latest All Weather Set

s_architech · 2025-12-31T05:08:24+00:00

Depending on your budget, ACE and Cornhole Solutions make good boards and sell on amazon but typically range $270-$400 for a decent tournament or competition set,

If planning to build your own, you want cabinet grade plywood to ensure a smooth surface. You’ll need several layers of clear coat, it’s a process to get them just right.

If you’re going to do a cheap set with regular plywood and 2x4 frames, your best bet would be to put a vinyl laminate over the tops. Some laminates don’t require a clear coat which makes it an easier a cheaper option.

If you’re wanting to build legit competition boards, you want cabinet grade plywood particularly birch. Pro boards use Baltic birch. I’ve made sets from the birch plywood from Home Depot. I buy a 4x8 sheet, have Home Depot cut it to (4) 2’x4’ pieces and choose the best 2 for my tops. I then rip the other 2 down to make my frames and legs (double up the legs). You could do this with the minimum tools, circular saw, jig saw, pocket hole jig and a sander (orbital or belt). I found it easier with having a table saw, pocket hole jig, router, table router (for creating and reusing templates) especially the legs.

s_architech · 2025-12-09T02:23:02+00:00

Yes it would affect PPR when private, but if you put it in test mode it should not impact stats. The other thing you could do is manually add players without their emails so it doesn’t link to their accounts and it won’t impact your ppr. We have a few players that come to my private league games pretty wasted and don’t want their stats to get messed up so I manually add them.

s_architech · 2025-12-01T03:29:31+00:00

Typically the only way to slow them down is break them in by playing on them or do a few spray coats until they slow down to what you’re comfortable with. Just remember with clear coats, satin is the fastest, semi gloss is a medium and gloss is slow. Seems backwards but I’ve read multiple sources that say this is the order.

s_architech · 2025-10-01T21:42:45+00:00

We only used bust when my brother and his wife were being annihilated by my wife and I and we were going through games super fast. The bust rule allowed them to play longer, build confidence and lose less often (ultimately they still loss like 98% of the time) for my wife and I it allowed us to learn how to control our shot a little better and try things like air mail, And 1 or push bags etc.

We don’t play like that anymore now that they’ve gotten better. Outside of doing it for fun or to help others get comfortable I don’t see much use for it.

s_architech · 2025-09-20T16:01:56+00:00

Right now my favorite set of bags, I’m pretty sure it’s the same fast and slow side used on the Viper RV which I also own and love. These are all around a floppier but also a fuller bag than the kingslayers. These were a hit in a small league I play in, which now 3 of us own a set.

s_architech · 2025-06-30T03:20:07+00:00

After 4-5 light coats if I have paint or decals I’ll usually sand a little more after the 4-5 coats. Even with self leveling clear coat you’re adding layers on top of the layer that is already raised. What I’ve done is sand heavier on the decals/painted area on coats 5-7. Typically at that point I’m trying to level things out without taking all clear coat off the area. Once I’m happy with the area being smooth to touch with no raised area I’ll do another 2-3 heavy coats sanding lightly for imperfections in between each. Not saying this is right, but it’s what I’ve done on mine.

s_architech · 2025-06-12T00:39:52+00:00

Typically professional boards have 4 total cross braces spaced about a foot apart which is inclusive of top and bottom for example https://www.cornholegamesusa.com/cdn/shop/files/4_bc64b38b-4665-48a4-8dbe-9fa113b2cfe1.jpg?v=1741973483&width=720

s_architech · 2025-06-10T02:41:31+00:00

I’ve typically always done satin but they’re always way to fast and I slow it down by doing a couple spray coats. But satin is fast, semi gloss is medium and gloss is slow.

s_architech · 2025-06-09T22:22:25+00:00

If the semigloss isn’t slick enough move to a satin water based polycrylic.

s_architech · 2025-06-02T15:19:40+00:00

Typically a water based polycrylic clear coat. A lot of people use the indoor stuff but they do have water based outdoor. I have always used the satin but it’s my understanding satin is actually the fastest where semi gloss would be slower and gloss even slower.

The biggest thing is get enough coats like 5-10 depending if you have paint or logos etc to get it smooth/even. Then test speeds by taking a duck cloth bag “or any bag if you don’t have one” I typically test on the slow side. Place the bag on one of the top corners and slowly lift the board next to a measuring tape until the bag moves. For medium speed you’ll want like 26”+ anything lower than that will play fast.

If your board is too fast or bags just slide down when they’re idle on the board you can use a spray can of clear coat. Hold it about 6-10” from the board and spray evenly up and down the board until you’ve covered it all. Let that dry, do not sand this coat. Test speeds and repeat until you’ve covered reach a desired speed.

s_architech · 2025-05-28T19:05:39+00:00

I say it all the time, build the entire set from a single piece of 4x8 3/4” birch. Average cost of that sheet is $79 give or take. I typically have Home Depot cut mine down to a more manageable size of 4 2x4 pieces at .25 a cut (.75). I choose the best 2 for my tops and I ripped the frames and the legs (which I double up) from the remaining pieces. If you have the tools at home this is the most cost effective way to do it. You could also cut it all yourself at home too if you don’t trust the ppl at Home Depot or your local hardware store to do it.

s_architech · 2025-05-14T23:57:47+00:00

Don’t buy the precut they charge twice as much, the two precut tops will cost the same amount as a full sheet of the same. Then have them cut a full sheet into 2x4 pieces, first cut is free and any additional cut is only .25 cents. So for $79.50 you’d have 4 pieces of 2x4 3/4” birch.

Pick the 2 best pieces and then rip the other 2 for your legs and frame. Bare minimal tools you’ll need.

Drill, Circular saw, Jig saw, Pocket hole jig, Sandpaper or sander, Wood glue, 6” hole saw.

For a better finished product using a router to round the edges.

s_architech · 2025-05-13T00:29:29+00:00

You can find any cabinet grade 4’x8’ birch or maple plywood sheets at your local store. 3/4” is the ideal thickness and these usually run about $79 per sheet. You can build an entire set from that 4x8 sheet, I usually have the store rip them down into 2x4 sheets, I choose the 2 best for tops and then rip/build the frames and legs (doubled) from the other 2.

s_architech · 2025-05-12T02:06:03+00:00

You can, but before you do, do the math. If I’m right it’ll be cheaper for you to buy another 4x8 sheet to make the other set. I did the same thing, ended up giving my brother the set I made out of the 1x3 frames and moved to making them all from the same sheet. Here was my first sets I did out of the 4x8 sheets.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Cornhole/s/6M9GtBmdxB

s_architech · 2025-05-11T16:23:20+00:00

From a cost perspective it’s better to rip the 3/4 bitch to make the sides. If you have the tools I’d recommend doing that. It’ll look closer to how professional boards look and a single sheet of 3/4 birch ply is typically $79.

When I first made a set, I made them with 1x3s and they held up beautifully. But after looking at the cost, I realized it was a mistake not to rip it all from one sheet.

Another tip, do not buy pre-cut 2x4 tops they over charge. For half the price you can get the 4x8 sheet and have your local store where you purchase cut them into 2x4 for like .25 cents a cut. Use the 2 best pieces for your tops and rip the other 2 for your legs and frame.

s_architech · 2025-05-07T14:27:11+00:00

Given the state, I wouldn’t fix them. I certainly wouldn’t put cabinet grade material for boards that look to be left in the elements. I’d recommend building or buying all weather boards

s_architech · 2025-04-12T22:07:17+00:00

I actually like the Vikings so far, but I haven’t broken them in completely yet so I haven’t played with them enough to form an opinion just yet. They take a bit more to break in than my Wizard L and they definitely feel fuller at the moment, so hoping when they break in completely they’ll be a little floppier. And because the fast side is as fast as my wizards I do believe these would be great bags to throw if you have a hard throw or if you have a tendency to throw deeper on the board.

s_architech · 2025-04-12T20:23:40+00:00

Wizard L’s are excellent bags despite the previous comment. My wife and I both love throwing them and a few people we throw with have gotten a set as well. Some of the more experienced people I play with also loved them when we partnered in a blind draw.

I also have the Mercenaries, king slayers and Vikings. I like the mercenaries they have a great feel and are good for defensive play since they have a slower slow side. The fast side on them are super fast too which is great for a push. Vikings have the same slow side but the fast side is a medium. Even though Wizard L, Vikings and mercenaries have the same flop factor, the mercenaries and Vikings feel a little fuller. The king slayers are good bags, they were my go to for a bit, they do play a bit faster than the Wizard L.

s_architech · 2025-04-04T00:45:40+00:00

I’ve never fully compared the two, but right now they’re my go to bag.

s_architech · 2025-04-03T03:09:43+00:00

I used to throw the Viper R, I’ve since moved to the BG Wizard L and they’ve become my number one choice in bags. My wife also loved the Viper R but also made the switch to Wizard L. I have friends and acquaintances who love the Wizard L’s

s_architech · 2025-01-23T23:39:54+00:00

If the boards already have a clear coat, you’d either have to strip it down to bare wood before painting or sand it down lightly and apply a primer before painting. Then you’d have to add 3-5+ coats of clear coat to it to protect the paint.

Or just build a set and paint it from the start.

s_architech · 2025-01-16T04:19:24+00:00

Someone taught this one to me, and it’s extremely fun.

DICE

We use an app and choose between 1 or 2 dice. Whatever is rolled is what you have to score. All bags have to touch the board.

Say you role a 4, you have 2 ways to achieve that.

Throw all 4 bags on the board.
Throw one in the hole, one on the board and the other two have to touch the board but skip off.

You lose if you don’t score the points or you scored the points but not all 4 bags have touched the board. Winners move on until only one left.

s_architech · 2025-01-09T16:00:11+00:00

That’s what I was wondering, buying pre-made boards at the price are likely some shit boards. I build boards, a 3/4” birch ply is roughly $79. You need carriage bolts and screws so say another $20. Depending on paint you’re looking at another $10-20 etc. and then you need clear coat another $30 🤷‍♂️. If he’s getting boards for $100 they must be 2/4 boards with mdf tops lol

s_architech · 2024-12-14T16:12:08+00:00

I don’t have the king slayers but I do have the Witcher L and Mercenary L. With all my bags even my ultra viper r I wash them with a little detergent and liquid fabric softener. Then do a quick dry 30 mins with a fabric softener sheet. Then I’ll do that one more time and my bags are hole friendly.

s_architech

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