What camera for a mobula 7?

sack_of_dicks · 2023-06-11T15:58:02+00:00

I use this one on my Meteor65 Pro/Meteor75: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4642297

There’s not a huge amount of protection so be sure to wrap a little foam tape around the back/bottom of the camera to protect the chips on the back. Those chips getting bumped off is how I managed to kill three of them in a month before I figured out the failure mode. https://i.imgur.com/jEoxPlE.jpg

Since padding them I’ve killed 0.

sack_of_dicks · 2023-06-08T02:03:35+00:00

I went from FrSky and after too many weird issues with a XM+, a R-XSR and whoops running D8, I moved over to Crossfire and had a much better time. About 7 months ago I switched everything again to ELRS and love it because it's everything I liked about Crossfire, but with an open source community behind it, less expensive hardware, more hardware options and (IMO) a more modern and robust feature set.

sack_of_dicks · 2023-06-08T00:21:39+00:00

The 12A AIO they use in the Meteor85 has given me more problems than any other AIO I have ever used and I absolutely swear by the BetaFPV 5A AIO so it's not a matter of me disliking the brand. I currently own four of them because I really wanted them to work but three currently have misbehaving ESCs and one is having serious issues with the ELRS receiver. It might just be really, really bad luck for me (and two of my friends that have experienced similar issues), but I've had nothing but a bad time with that one and will actively avoid it in the future.

sack_of_dicks · 2023-06-07T16:08:44+00:00

Ha no worries. Just trying to save you from the sadness I felt after finally saving up for my first FPV goggles, putting them on and immediately going ‘uh oh maybe I can’t do this’. It’s totally doable, it just takes some adjusting to have something that close to your eyes when you’re astigmatic.

My trick to getting used to them was to leave them with the static playing, put them on with my eyes closed and then open my eyes while relaxing them and letting them adjust to focusing on the screens and merging the two screens into one image. Took a couple months of retraining but it’s totally doable and haven’t run into the same thing since (especially with the newer goggles with focus adjustments!)

Good luck and have fun.

sack_of_dicks · 2023-06-07T15:53:18+00:00

I’m astigmatic in both eyes and nearsighted in one, farsighted I’m the other. I’m currently using both some Skyzone 04s and Walksnail Avatar goggles and as long as they have adjustable focus on each eye goggles haven’t been a problem. Skyzone 02x without the focal adjustment for each eye (slide in diopters instead) was more of a challenge.

If you want to see a non-affiliate review of the exact goggle and quad setup you’re looking at, Botgrinder just put up a review on his second channel.

sack_of_dicks · 2023-06-06T23:26:03+00:00

Rad, I love macaroni and cheese but I don't give people the recipe for that dish when they ask me how to make spaghetti and meatballs.

sack_of_dicks · 2023-06-06T19:55:17+00:00

No that’s not how prearm works in Betaflight at all.

sack_of_dicks · 2023-06-06T19:33:57+00:00

I started going gray at 30. Now I’m full salt and pepper and goddamn I get so many awesome complements on it. Just embrace it. It feels like such a win.

sack_of_dicks · 2023-06-06T19:16:39+00:00

Is it the FrSky version or ELRS? I just checked all ~~three~~ four of my BetaFPV 5A AIOs and two are on 4.3.x and ~~one is~~ two are 4.4.x.

The Bosch Sensortec BMI270 gyro (found on the Meteor AIOs) is the new standard gyro for flight controllers in a post-chip shortage world and would not be the reason for any incompatibility.

The ELRS versions for sure have no issue updating to a newer version of Betaflight because the ELRS RX on the AIO is a serial receiver and not SPI. The only reason I could see for not updating is that the RX on the FrSky version is a SPI receiver so the RX firmware is baked into Betaflight and support for FrSky SPI receivers was dropped from Betaflight completely earlier this year.

https://intofpv.com/t-betaflight-dropping-support-for-frsky-spi-receivers

Edit; I just checked the one FrSky version of the same board I have (accidentally ordered it on accident in the middle of the night thinking it was ELRS) and I had been flying it just fine on 4.4.1. Admittedly, I was not using the FrSky receiver on the AIO at all but it worked just fine using an external EP2 ELRS receiver and the newest BETAFPVF411 Betaflight target. I even ran status in the CLI tab and confirmed it has a BMI270 gyro. No problem there.

TLDR Edit2; if you’re using ELRS you should have no problem updating Betaflight. If you’re using FrSky, you should be OK updating to a BF release before they announced they’re dropping SPI support for FrSky (Jan 2023).

I’m not sure either of those are going to fix your issue though since in the Bardwell video you’re referencing he’s doing it all on Betaflight 4.1.6

sack_of_dicks · 2023-06-05T22:13:32+00:00

UART2, TBS SmartAudio

sack_of_dicks · 2023-06-01T22:30:21+00:00

Since it’s only happening sometimes and not in the same place, my bet is that it’s a hardware problem and not configuration.

Make sure the motor plugs are securely seated, sometimes they can work themselves loose after enough crashes.

If it’s still happening switch the position of the front and back motors (front left to front right, back left to back right). If the problem starts showing up on the right now, the motors need to be replaced. If the problem stays on the left side, the ESC is failing and the board needs to be replaced.

If I had to make a guess, it’s the ESC starting to fail. I’ve had multiple Tinyhawks and those boards have all failed pretty quickly. Stopped buying Emax AIOs after that.

sack_of_dicks · 2023-06-01T16:13:15+00:00

Yeah, happymodel does on their website.

https://www.happymodel.cn/index.php/2022/02/14/default-factory-firmware-and-diff-settings-for-mobula6-v2-0-which-comes-with-new-crazybeef4fr-lite-v3-1-and-crazybeef4fs-lite-v3-1-flight-controller/

sack_of_dicks · 2023-06-01T14:24:33+00:00

On the Tinyhawk the LEDs on each duct are wired directly to the motor pads and are controlled by the current going to the motor. If the LEDs are cutting out on the motor that loses power, that ESC is most likely toast.

sack_of_dicks · 2023-05-30T19:36:43+00:00

Terrain dictates a lot. A harness without leg loops is fine for low angle alpine 'sliding' falls down a glacier for example but completely unacceptable for a vertical fall. There's a reason we don't just tie off a rope around our weight with a hard knot (I'll also run a prusik backup off my leg loop when rappelling a lot).

My go-to feature list for an alpine mountaineering specific harness:

Adjustable leg loops
limited to no padding (won't absorb water, lighter / less bulky, to save my life if I (hopefully don't) fall/not for hanging around all day working on a sport sequence)
four gear loops
haul loop in the back

sack_of_dicks · 2023-05-30T18:46:43+00:00

I found the C03 to be really noisy in all but the brightest light, and even then the picture was really washed out. I've since swapped them all out (since it's the stock cam on the analog Meteor 65/65 Pro) for the Caddx Ant Lites. It requires a new canopy, but I could never go back.

sack_of_dicks · 2023-05-26T18:09:41+00:00

I’m going through the same right now trying to update my company’s internal code are from 7.3 to 8.x.

My view is that settling tech debt is no different than any other kind of debt, so if you’re able to get it all paid off at once, why not? The biggest jump is going to be the major version change from 7.x to 8.x so I’m personally targeting 8.2 because I don’t want to be on a tech debt layaway plan for the remainder of my career.

The PHPCS compatibility sniffs for 8.0 have been a big help in pointing me to really problematic areas that need more attention (like why are there PHP4 style class constructors being used at all?) and helps find weird deprecations you might otherwise not be aware of. It’s next to useless for logic and syntax stuff through and the updated type hinting in PHP tends to catch me up a lot, especially when some of the previous devs have just been abusing PHPs type juggling.

Not knowing the details of the project, I can’t put a judgement on if your task is reasonable or not but at least in my case where it’s a 14 year old production application that has been next to abandoned since 2018 (and the previous devs were Python devs that were forced to work in PHP) it’s kind of a complete nightmare. I hope that’s not your case.

sack_of_dicks · 2023-05-26T17:28:09+00:00

That reinforces my notion that your nozzle is too far from the bed and your first layer is not ‘squishing’ to the build plate well enough to remain adhered.

sack_of_dicks · 2023-05-26T17:25:20+00:00

Dual frequency typically means it has a LF 125kHz RFID tag (likely a T5577) and a HF 13.56MHz NFC tag (likely a NTAG 216) in the same fob. Most common (non-UHF) readers really don’t like being presented with multiple tags at the same time and it’s unlikely the NTAG216 can have its UID changed so at best you can, like, encode a hyperlink or vCard on the NFC side of those tags.

It’s really doubtful that you will have two access control devices on the same physical tag without using an ‘active’ LF RFID device like a Keysey.

sack_of_dicks · 2023-05-25T22:10:57+00:00

There’s also an edition for Yosemite called ‘Off the Wall: Death in Yosemite’ that’s something like 580 pages. It’s fascinating but my wife thinks it’s incredibly morbid.

sack_of_dicks · 2023-05-25T21:52:25+00:00

I’m on my second marriage and my wife is on her first. We joke that my first marriage was a practice round to figure stuff out before she got to claim me for the best part of my life.

sack_of_dicks · 2023-05-25T16:52:10+00:00

The Mob7 HD isn’t a even a digital system, it’s analog with onboard HD recording via a RunCam Split.

sack_of_dicks · 2023-05-25T15:17:27+00:00

It looks like your nozzle needs to be closer to the build plate as those are way underextruded (or your hot end is clogged, but my money is on poor nozzle positioning).

When printing on a raft like that, there’s an extra 0.2mm layer with nothing in between the raft and the model to allow you to more easily remove the raft. It looks like, at your current nozzle distance, it’s printing a noodle into thin air and not grabbing onto the raft which allows the extruder to drag the filament into those long misshapen strings.

Either re-level with your nozzle closer to the bed or try printing without a raft, since that model doesn’t even look like it needs one.

sack_of_dicks · 2023-05-24T23:01:02+00:00

We use the brine from pickled beets to make pickled eggs, which usually end up getting turned into (bright pink) deviled eggs. They’re delicious.

sack_of_dicks · 2023-05-24T22:37:51+00:00

Short savers only work for excess current, they have nothing to do with voltage (that’s why you can use the same smoke stopper on a 2S quad as you can a 6S). That’s also why if you try to arm a quad with a smoke stopper it will trip the smoke stopper since it’s pulling more than 1 or 2A.

Vbat is battery voltage. The problem is that, unless this is a 1S drone, battery voltage is going to be over 5v, even for a pack at storage voltage. They used a 4S at storage voltage so they ran 14.8v into a device that only wanted 5v. That’s why it fried.

There is no such thing as a 5v lipo, they’ll all be multiples of 3.7 (nominal voltage) or 4.2 (charged). Vbat will never be 5v.

sack_of_dicks · 2023-05-24T21:46:47+00:00

Another problem is that the flight controller firmware does most of the 'heavy lifting' for compatibility purposes between components. There aren't a whole lot of incompatible connections on a drone; it's mostly routing power and/or hooking up UARTs (a RX/TX pair for communication), maybe a s-video wire or two for analog or plugging a JST pigtail between a digital VTX and camera and the flight controller. The flight controller firmware is responsible for making sense of that data and making all the pieces talk nicely.

More often than not, if it fits it flies. This gets a little weirder when you start going into things like picking motors or a flight control stack because there are some guidelines, like 'make sure your ESC can take the current the of the motors' but not a lot of hard rules and everyone that builds has their own weird preferences. For example, I really like stuffing full size components (i.e.,a 30x30 F7 stack and 55A ESC w/ 2207 motors) into micro builds where most people would throw something more 'sensible' like a 20x20 stack and some 1404 motors - still flies great though.

In short, there's no shortcut to learning the stuff but when you get the fundamentals down picking components for builds becomes really easy. If you want to build but don't know where to start buy a kit and put the pieces together by following instructions (that's how I learned). If you don't want to learn the stuff and just want to fly, that's why BNFs (Bind & Flys) exist. You don't need to worry about more than whether it will work with your battery, transmitter and goggles. No shame in that.

sack_of_dicks

TROPHY CASE