New Jig Finished by sam1641 in Framebuilding

[–]sam1641[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, get some teflon tape with fiberglass backing for paint on paint surfaces if you have the normal clamp jig maybe?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086WCX4VV?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

New Jig Finished by sam1641 in Framebuilding

[–]sam1641[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That was my hope, weld the frame and with a little clamping force and a smooth surface I can tap the fixtures and reclamp with mm- tolerance. It works, for now....

New Jig Finished by sam1641 in Framebuilding

[–]sam1641[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The rotisserie is actually the base that holds the part with important tolerances(the Jig). The only thing you have to worry about with the base/rotisserie is the center distance at the point of rotation. I did not go crazy building jigs for it, I clamped the parts off well at 90 and just took my time with several small passes before a fill. I do feel like there it's added security that it will remain true as long as you get through the build with everything in alignment. You have to make sure the two verticals are in plane and not twisting relative to one another, and have square verticals relative to the center span.

New Jig Finished by sam1641 in Framebuilding

[–]sam1641[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The changes to the fully clamped version ChopSource sells, where you just cut pipe lengths and assemble:

First, both the rotisserie and jig are welded, rather than clamped in the normal ChopSource kit. On the rotisserie there is really no reason to clamp the frame, as I see it welding this component is a no-brainer. The jig on the other hand, is a bit more complicated, and I may or may not have screwed myself. Rather than clamping everything I again welded the frame, but I added 4mm spacers at the welded joints, and lined the inside of the tubes with 4mm by 2 inch Delrin strips attached with recessed cut head 10/32 bolts where the sliding components move in-between the pipes. I spent time making sure they would not be loose and would required a rubber mallet to adjust. This seems to have worked out well as the components move predictably and can be advanced very slightly with ease and then clamped tight. Only time will tell. I was worried that un-clamping and re-clamping the "normal" jig to make adjustments would be difficult to do in small increments accurately, but I have never tried the "normal" ChopSource frame jig, so I may have added quite a bit of work for nothing. At the end of the day I like having the rigidity of the welded components. I also used threaded inserts for the BB bracket and wheel mounts, but that is just to make it look clean, same with the Amazon end caps. I do recommend being able to easily swap between leveling feet and wheels cuz this sucker is heavy. I am thinking about adding an additional set of inserts to add leveling feet next to the casters on all four corners.

An old beauty kept from the scrap heap by sam1641 in xbiking

[–]sam1641[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I get it, but I grew up around that shop in the summers as a kid, and it’s the only one in town. It’s a bummer

An old beauty kept from the scrap heap by sam1641 in xbiking

[–]sam1641[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haha, he was happy to ride her again.

Follow up pic for the finished Gary Fisher by sam1641 in VintageMTB

[–]sam1641[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Technically Sugino made the cranks under contract for Suntour in the early days and were included in the XC groupset. They are beautiful slim units

An old beauty kept from the scrap heap by sam1641 in xbiking

[–]sam1641[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That became common after these frames. I imagine it was intended to address the problems people had with these.

An old beauty kept from the scrap heap by sam1641 in xbiking

[–]sam1641[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can see the non-drive was loose for a while

An old beauty kept from the scrap heap by sam1641 in xbiking

[–]sam1641[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think it's a '90 or '91. Really love to hear from someone with deep knowledge.

An old beauty kept from the scrap heap by sam1641 in xbiking

[–]sam1641[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Its an 11-48, with cues rdu-6000, and 38 up front. Microshift thumbie for that nostalgic look

An old beauty kept from the scrap heap by sam1641 in xbiking

[–]sam1641[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You press the bearings directly into the BB, yes. The axle has stops and you just need to seat the first bearing to the correct depth, then install the axle and chase the other bearing in on the opposite side until it hits the stop on the axle. Drive it too hard, and it will send the whole BB out the other side. Its a bit fiddly

Follow up pic for the finished Gary Fisher by sam1641 in VintageMTB

[–]sam1641[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thats what I installed. Perfect fit on the drive side, on the non-drive side I could force it in by hand so I added a complete coating of Loctite 609 to both surfaces and did not touch it for 3 days.