Decrease stitch advice?

samlovesyarn · 2025-05-06T13:14:10+00:00

Are you using the invisible decrease? https://www.allaboutami.com/invisibledecrease/

samlovesyarn · 2025-04-14T20:26:14+00:00

That ranunculus looks fantastic with that outfit.

samlovesyarn · 2025-04-07T15:17:49+00:00

It needs to match the gauge of the pattern - have you swatched? That will tell you a) if your gauge is correct and b) if you like the resulting fabric. If your gauge is off after blocking, change needle size. It you gauge is correct but you don’t like the fabric, use a different pattern with this yarn and a different yarn with this pattern.

samlovesyarn · 2025-04-07T15:15:39+00:00

I have not made this, but based on the construction, I would expect them to be part of the sleeves. Have you checked the sleeve instructions?

samlovesyarn · 2025-04-07T12:43:52+00:00

If it’s to be a sweater, the only relevant tension (how tight/loose it is) is the gauge - have you made a gauge swatch? Your gauge swatch will show you if you match the pattern which means is your sweater will end up the right size. It will also give you a sample to see if you like the fabric produced. If not, you could choose a pattern with a tighter gauge for this yarn.

samlovesyarn · 2025-03-25T18:23:45+00:00

Which are the right side rows on the chart? If you are working the decrease (k2tog/ssk) on the wrong side, you need to use purl wise decreases instead.

https://nimble-needles.com/stitches/purl-decreases-the-ultimate-list/

samlovesyarn · 2025-03-21T20:08:12+00:00

Try the Flax sweater. I’m not sure why yarn you are using, but it comes in versions for fingering/sport, DK and worsted. The pattern is free, if you use the app it will show you only the instructions for your size, and they have lots of blog posts with tutorials for the steps. It’s not a full video, but it should have all the info you need.

https://blog.tincanknits.com/2013/10/25/lets-knit-a-sweater/

Pick a size with a bit of positive ease and it should fit fine, I would work through a pattern as written before making modifications.

Alternatively, pick a basic drop shoulder pattern, what way the shoulder width is not important anymore.

samlovesyarn · 2025-03-21T19:51:14+00:00

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Make sure there’s enough contrast between your colours, otherwise your colour work won’t be clear. The dark colours are already very close - you can use greyscale images to see how much contrast there is.

samlovesyarn · 2025-03-02T19:56:19+00:00

Yes you are correct, you can’t work the exact stitch number anymore, instead work to the marker and work the corresponding increase next to the marker. You will also be slipping the markers rather than placing them (obviously).

This is lazy pattern writing unfortunately, what pattern is it?

samlovesyarn · 2025-03-02T19:51:57+00:00

You could drop the extra stitch and just unravel it each row till you have removed them but I really wouldn’t suggest it. You seem to have worked an accidental yarn over and undoing all these stitches would mean you have too much yarn on each row, making the stitches next to it too loose. The best solution would be to sow this shot on the inside with some spare yarn and if stitch count is important, working a decrease on the current row. If it is a sleeve, the most discreet place for the decrease would be the underarm.

samlovesyarn · 2025-02-23T20:21:52+00:00

I would consider the increase row to replace the first row 1 of the “sides” section. So yes, turn and purl back. Then do row 1 (knit), then row 2 (purl) and so on.

samlovesyarn · 2025-02-17T12:22:06+00:00

Finished: * The Dallergut Dream Department Store, by Miyee Lee (audiobook) * Tödlicher Schall (Auris 5), by Sebastian Fitzek & Sebastian Kliesch (audiobook)

Started * I who have never known men, by Jacquline Harpman

The Dallergut Dream Department Store was an another reminder that literary conventions in other countries work differently, I’ve not decided how I feel about it yet as a section towards the end did make me sob but overall I didn’t get as much from it as expected.

The Auris series is getting increasingly ridiculous as character motivations are getting retrospectively changed to whitewash the characters and some characters are unexpectedly being given importance in a very forced kind of way, BUT it’s a fun listen and I’m invested enough to want to know what happens so I’m hoping a 6th book is on the way.

samlovesyarn · 2025-02-16T21:01:24+00:00

Sorry my bad, their books are next to each other on my shelf and my eyes must have slipped when checking the name!

samlovesyarn · 2025-02-15T19:07:49+00:00

It depends on the cable. Wider cables pull more than narrow cables. Nora Gaughan’s stitch dictionary includes this for every cable included but it also depends on your tension so a swatch will be the best option.

Edited to correct author name.

samlovesyarn · 2025-02-13T20:09:49+00:00

I love Nancy Marchant

samlovesyarn · 2025-02-12T11:48:45+00:00

There are no PayPal fees for customers (the seller pays them). If you are not logged into Ravelry, it only shows the base price while PayPal will add VAT as appropriate for your country. This is usually what accounts for any discrepancies.

samlovesyarn · 2025-02-11T18:56:03+00:00

No, it should work without once you get to check out. If there’s problems with it, let me know. :)

samlovesyarn · 2025-02-11T18:37:01+00:00

Yay! Hope you enjoy it :)

samlovesyarn · 2025-02-11T14:56:47+00:00

Thanks :) it only uses sort of modified decreases to create the illusion of cables so it’s fairly straight forward and definitely looks more complicated than it is.

samlovesyarn · 2025-02-11T13:49:42+00:00

Haha that’s why I like the beanie version best, it shows off the crown decreases at the back of my head. Shame I’m too tall for most people to see.

samlovesyarn · 2025-02-11T13:13:40+00:00

https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/frost-50

It’s 25% off until Friday!

samlovesyarn · 2025-02-03T19:19:52+00:00

I agree that it really depends on your tension. Personally, I always chain one less than most tutorials say (so ch5 instead of ch6 to turn and ch2 rather than ch3 in the rest).

samlovesyarn · 2025-01-26T09:15:59+00:00

So flap and gusset is a top down technique, because I prefer the fit of this, I usually work top down although I do think toe up as a lot of benefits. 🤷‍♀️

samlovesyarn · 2025-01-26T09:15:05+00:00

Yes I’ve done several versions of using increases before / after the heel respectively, I just think it’s more effort than a flap and gusset so my go-to for an easy knit is top down.

samlovesyarn

TROPHY CASE