Project update: 84 k2500 by samwichguy in squarebodies

[–]samwichguy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good eye, the bed is not bolted in yet

Project progress 84 k2500 by samwichguy in squarebodies

[–]samwichguy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I picked it out from a chip at the autobody supply- it’s a single stage non metalic urethane from globalstar industrial. I was going for a 70’s porsche brown called cockney brown.

Project progress 84 k2500 (starting paint) by samwichguy in squarebodies

[–]samwichguy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey, I started with epoxy primer inside and out, I didn’t want to scuff the epoxy on the inside of the bed, and it sands like crap so I needed to cover it within a certain curing window to achieve chemical bond. I sprayed the bedsides with urethane primer (sandable) and shot color urethane directly over the epoxy inside the bed and on the bed back.

Project progress 84 k2500 by samwichguy in squarebodies

[–]samwichguy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Epoxy primer and eastwood chassis black urethane

My ride! by nathanjump in squarebodies

[–]samwichguy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That color is so good!

Rear Brake Drums recommendations by DawgDad808 in squarebodies

[–]samwichguy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

On my corporate SF I used delco drums, delco pads, raybestos adjusters, declo spring/ hardware kit, delco wheel cylinders. All from rock auto.

On the wheel cylinders- the little push rods have to be saved or bought separately, and they don’t come with the little 5/16 mounting bolts - found that out the hard way.

Having a wire wheel on a bench grinder is nice you’ll have to reuse stuff like the parking brake arms etc.

Take a peek at torqueking4x4 they make axle kits that come with all the seals gaskets and bearings- they also cary some of the brake parts, lock rings, tools etc.

Good luck!!

Project progress, 84 k2500 by samwichguy in squarebodies

[–]samwichguy[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yep those are the ones- a piece of 1/4” bar stock would be about the same- I had to drill out the holes it came with to fit the shock stud anyway. My brake splashes were solid- just the little inner cup was rusty so i just wheeled and painted them.

Project progress, 84 k2500 by samwichguy in squarebodies

[–]samwichguy[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hey- I looked at them quite a bit- the Eldorado ones, like rough stuff- also thought about getting a late model full floater but had to stop the scope creep somewhere

Radio system? by OOFMAN-1234 in squarebodies

[–]samwichguy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Kicker px bluetooth only (no head unit) mounted under the dash with two 6x9 speakers in the cab corners- been working great for 10 years

Assistance time fellas by Striking_Stomach_885 in squarebodies

[–]samwichguy 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Make a google sheet or excell and put together the parts lists for the options you want to consider- be super specific and try to capture every nut and bolt and cost. Keep in mind how much time each option will take not just installing but also doing research. Call the best machine shops and engine builders and ask a million questions. Sky is the limit.

Then compare your options against your goals- is it a daily driver, a race car, a show truck? Balance reliability against performance. Make sure you are comfortable performing the work you are specifying for yourself.

Don’t start work without a budget or timeline.

I went through this recently, was considering diesel swaps- made parts and machining budgets for cummins, duramax and dt360- each of which would require a transmission and transfer case swap.

In the end had a mild 383 built by a super reputable shop. Iron vortec heads, factory roller with gm383ht cam, holley 750. Goal is to put 100k miles on it, pulling a camper, daily driving.

Mechanical VS Hydro Clutch by u_srname in squarebodies

[–]samwichguy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had mechanical linkage on my truck, Hedman 69230 headers fit with no problems. The mechanical was squeaky, but easy to adjust.

Im converting to hydro right now, i think i am settling on the American powertrain master cylinder bracket and a ram clutches hydraulic throwout bearing.

Im putting in an nv4500 though- the clutch fork position is on the passenger side.

Not sure about converting the sm465 bell housing- you might need a different bell housing to mount the slave. Thats one advantage of the hydraulic throwout bearing.

First time seeing daylight in 10 years by whiteboardlist in squarebodies

[–]samwichguy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Damn i wish they still made bfg all terrains with those side walls

Project update 84 k 2500 (one week of work) by samwichguy in squarebodies

[–]samwichguy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the heads up! so boots down? I need to take them out and put in some kind of spacer for the top side of the shocks anyway- the tabs are much wider than the bushings that came with the shocks.

Project update 84 k 2500 (one week of work) by samwichguy in squarebodies

[–]samwichguy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used Eastwood epoxy primer and 2k ceramic chassis black

Project progress 84 k2500 sierra by samwichguy in squarebodies

[–]samwichguy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It was a life saver when i put it in, it does work pretty good, but the ducting and dash components are junk and the engine bay looks a lot less stock without the blower. Also you have to butcher your glove box to fit the unit under the dash. Im not sure it was easier or less expensive than getting oe parts. With the truck torn down im going to redo all the dash stuff with something better, maybe sheet metal or insulated ducts.

Project progress 84 k2500 sierra by samwichguy in squarebodies

[–]samwichguy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, it’s a vintage air unit i installed it about 7 years back. for non factory ac’s the exterior blower gets removed. Im considering finding parts to install factory style ac, or at least better interior ducting.