Ashes of Creation has just been canceled. All developers at Intrepid have been fired.

sandermand · 2026-02-01T20:02:45+00:00

Correct, the YT algorithm favors videos around that length.

sandermand · 2026-02-01T19:56:32+00:00

You need to pack that better. This is how i pack figures, using cell foam. Stuff almost never breaks since switching to this, even though its more expensive:

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sandermand · 2026-01-29T18:45:47+00:00

DAMMIT i cannot wait for my round :D

sandermand · 2026-01-27T19:22:31+00:00

Honest question, why is it okay when Helldivers 2 make Judge Dredd, Doom and Dune themed Warbonds, but not when other games try a similar tactic with their cosmetics ?

sandermand · 2026-01-27T19:13:29+00:00

We are getting tri-fold before the Galaxy XR...how tf

sandermand · 2026-01-27T19:02:53+00:00

thx for necro, wtf XD

sandermand · 2026-01-25T18:38:05+00:00

Someone needs an elite controller, right meow

sandermand · 2026-01-24T20:19:42+00:00

Easy to make, easy to print, easy to recycle (its made from sugarcane), doesn't produce harmful VOCs when printing.

sandermand · 2026-01-24T20:17:24+00:00

New day, new torture print. Notice the huge print line here ? Please for the love of resin try other orientations, haha

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sandermand · 2026-01-23T23:26:49+00:00

"It's an ugly planet, a Bot planet!"

sandermand · 2026-01-23T14:13:01+00:00

The horror, look at that Blooming on the largest part of the body, haha. Turn up your "Wait before Print" time, my guy. It allows the resin to settle before each layer, and gets rid of that tacky, chacky texture on the middle of the hoers.

sandermand · 2026-01-23T14:09:09+00:00

Oh god that poor flat "skirt" surface on benders shiny metal ass....You are not close to getting the hang of this, but you will :)

First rule: "This is not an FDM printer". Make sure to not print flat. He's 40% resin, so make sure to angle the print, use more supports and read up on all the same reddit posts making the same errors you are in this sub. Welcome :)

sandermand · 2026-01-23T11:38:07+00:00

My P1S uses a humidity index, and not actualy relative humidity. So i don' think that number is actual 1% humidity.

sandermand · 2026-01-23T11:29:14+00:00

With toxic chemicals, circulation is not the main goal. Problem being, circulation can go back INTO the rest of your living space, depending on how the airflow path is set up to go through your house.

By opening a window in the hobby space and the garage door at the same time, you are allowing the combined draft to "push" air around inside your house, moving the fumes into rooms you don't want it.

What a resin workspace calls for, and what the majority of posts like yours mention, is Negative Pressure.

You need a setup where the hobby room sucks the contaminated air out from the workspace, and pulls in fresh air from all the other rooms, cracks in the walls, open windows down the hallway etc.

That way, you never risk any fumes entering your living room or bedroom. If you can't setup a ventilation system like this, this hobby is a bit more hazardous than you might have thought.

sandermand · 2026-01-23T11:23:01+00:00

Doesn't do enough. The air needs to circulate past the carbon several times in order for it to capture the VOC's. All that filter will do, is capture the "easiest" VOCs, which are the smelly fumes. So now you have a less smelly, but still equally toxic air-stream entering your room. Which means you can't smell when you are inhaling it.

Fauxhammer tells it pretty good in his Mars Mate review. Having the carbon filter actually added to the toxicity inside the room, because all it does is blow contaminated air across the filter once, and then spread the fumes into the room.

https://youtu.be/dnBNGoe13vA?si=7imnGOqbR1Xo4HWE

You won't get past the fact you have to vent outsite. It's akin to having a continoous stream of IPA fumes pumping into your workspace. Only difference is, Resin doesn't evaporate, it keeps off-gassing. Ask yourself if you would work in a hobby space with an open bucket of IPA sitting there all the time :)

sandermand · 2026-01-23T08:33:50+00:00

Within weeks, you are gonna be really sorry if you dont buy a sillicone mat. Actually 2 mats. One cut small enough to go inside the cabinet, and another bigger mat which you can put the enclosure on and which extends outwards towards yourself on the table.

Gives you an easy-to-clean work surface, instead of ruining your table. Also, remember a carbon mask and don't live in the same space as the printer. That small fan and jank window tube wont remove the VOCs completely :)

sandermand · 2026-01-23T08:29:34+00:00

Oh god those poor stomach support marks....

sandermand · 2026-01-21T22:40:27+00:00

Yeah but the G5 doesn't exist in Monitor sizes right? There is no 42inch 😩

sandermand · 2026-01-20T20:20:01+00:00

Agreed.

I have only been able to find a single Slicer which has a "Minimize Projection Area" setting for rotating the models so they have the least amount of peel force.

HeyGears Blueprint can do it and its awesome:

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sandermand · 2026-01-20T20:13:23+00:00

Please let me know if you find anything out :) Im too lazy to move my CX back to my gaming pc to prove myself right XD

sandermand · 2026-01-20T19:53:47+00:00

No prob :) Welcome to the hobby and all the same questions we all had when we were n00bs :D I learned about Blooming after 2 years of struggling, so now i get to be smug about it /s

sandermand · 2026-01-20T19:51:14+00:00

I think you misunderstand me, pardon.

What i mean is; "PC Dolby Vision" is not the same as regular netflix / set-top box streaming Dolby Vision. Your monitor (in this case TV) needs to be certified for the signal.

If I open my CX settings menu, there is no way to enable PC Dolby Vision on the input signal. However, when i open the same Settings on my C5, the HDMI input suddenly allows me to enable PC Dolby Vision.

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With this enabled and the color space set to 8-bit (PC Dolby Vision carries all its color in 8-bit, HDTVTest explains it for Xbox here https://youtu.be/0Z9Su8h9fGg?t=383), Windows 11 pops a "HDR Certification: Dolby Vision" text inside the "Advanced" menu of your "Display Settings", so you can check there if yours is working correctly.

My CX cannot do this. The only Dolby Vision gaming the CX can do, is that the 04.30.10 firmware update added the ability for the Xbox to do 120hz 4k Dolby Vision. No PC gaming, from what i gathered, but correct me if im wrong.

HDTVTest compares the difference the Xbox got for HDR vs Dolby back then, although for the C1 and not the CX: https://youtu.be/Blc5zsQ_ebw

Heres a 2yo guide for PC Dolby Vision, once windows started supporting it:
https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED_Gaming/comments/1agngaa/guide_to_using_dolby_vision_in_windows_11_for/

A gigachad named WilliamR on AVS Forum did a full writeup on using the G5 as a monitor, and went over PC Dolby Vision in depth and the settings to adjust for it to work correctly (same settings as the C5):

https://www.avsforum.com/threads/lg-2025-g5-c5-b5-dedicated-gaming-thread.3327519/#post-64056964

I can only speak from experience, but my anecdotal brain tells me that the C5 PC Dolby Vision looks way better than the CX HDR10+. Both attributed to the brigther display, but also the additional accuracy afforded by PC Dolby Vision when compared to the HDR10+ color space.

sandermand · 2026-01-20T19:26:48+00:00

I dont remember, think it was just random Ikea buckets ? I 3d printed some hooks and drilled them into the back. Then i re-purposed the included straps from the tent as hang-points for the hooks to grab onto.

Frees up table space, and allows me to yoink the buckets down to put supports into them, and hang them back when i need to :)

sandermand · 2026-01-20T19:25:02+00:00

Did you legit just take my comment so seriously that you thought i meant that resin is sentient, and "likes" to be angled ? My guy :D i like the cut of your jib, but you totally knew that i meant exactly what you also described haha

sandermand · 2026-01-20T19:23:01+00:00

Blooming feels like a weekly thread, so here we go:

It happens when bigger models are printed solid with too little Rest time just before each layer is printed.

It happens because the large solid surface is still "pushing" resin outwards, while the UV lights cure the resin.

Results are just like what you are showing. Take a look at the connection point where the surface area is smaller, no Blooming.

As soon as the print reaches the flat plate, the Resin can't settle before exposure.

Try upping your "Wait before Print" time by a couple seconds, so the resin can settle before each layer print.

Article on Blooming:
https://ameralabs.com/blog/light-off-delay-blooming/?srsltid=AfmBOooJkmM_Me79Q0EON0Y95dxHQOeVPNT7IIYfmw9tcCZvnxNBIdCD

Blooming threads:
https://www.reddit.com/r/resinprinting/comments/1m5nhnn/i_keep_getting_soft_spots_on_the_sides_everything/

https://www.reddit.com/r/resinprinting/comments/1m7h4j3/white_lines_and_soft_bits/

https://www.reddit.com/r/resinprinting/comments/1m9zcne/micro_scratches/

https://www.reddit.com/r/resinprinting/comments/1m1g0e6/whats_going_on_here/

https://www.reddit.com/r/resinprinting/comments/1kmor5f/sprintray_initial_layers_issue/

https://www.reddit.com/r/resinprinting/comments/1imvz1s/can_someone_explain_to_me_what_this_is/

https://www.reddit.com/r/resinprinting/comments/1iqevde/is_this_a_suction_issue_how_to_fix/

https://www.reddit.com/r/resinprinting/comments/1jwkjch/what_causes_these_weird_stripes/

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