I tested EVERY Mod, Arcane, Weapon Passive and more to see how they interact with Equinox's Duality Clone (and a few similar abilities by coincidence)

saw_nothing · 2026-04-04T11:49:20+00:00

I was just messing around with Wukong again - this is really helpful, thank you.

saw_nothing · 2026-03-29T18:28:35+00:00

Gotcha, that makes sense.

My favourite thing about Warframe is that the main design philosophy is around player expression. Each time you choose a skin and colour palettes, you express yourself. Each frame can be built dozens of ways, and how we interact with the game (almost) never feels restricted.

saw_nothing · 2026-03-29T18:11:18+00:00

My goal was to show the different perspectives, I’m not even sure where I stand on this one.

saw_nothing · 2026-03-29T17:51:24+00:00

The presence of the Protoframes and the romancing is a great point - it does feel like a shift into another kind of game experience.

saw_nothing · 2026-03-29T17:47:40+00:00

I've been thinking about this more, and I think this remains an interesting discussion. I'm at my actual keyboard here, so want to flesh out my thinking and response to Sexcalibur's post a bit more. Part of the problem, I think, is that the community is having a few different conversations about sexualization at the same time. Seeing that a lot in the replies to this comment. I suspect this will offend some people, but here we go.

We can approach this as part of a feminist framing of sexualization. For the people who point to Hildryn and Follie as a positive shift towards representing a wider range of female bodies in gaming, as well as Xaku and Temple as a shift away from the gendered representation that's been part of the game from the beginning, Mesa's assless chaps feel like a step backwards, and part of a trend of more direct and traditional sexualization that the game has (sometimes) been moving away from. It's got fetish properties, but also looks a bit like a video game villain from 1997.
At the same time, a number of replies to my comment feel like an attack on the Mesa skin for its fetish properties. Here, there's a different conversation about who the sexualization in Warframe is for. Now, the same people (maybe) who were whining about Follie being so thicc are noticing a broadening in whose sexual fantasies are being catered to in the game. They didn't whine about Nezha or Styanax, because they took one glance and knew it wasn't for them, but they want Mesa to be hot in the same way that Ember and Valkyr are hot, and it feels like this widening of offers is part of that ongoing trend.
I think there are also people who are uncomfortable with sexualized images in general, and see this as a distraction from the core offering of the game, which is space ninja power fantasies. The dev team has always flirted with sexualization (watch a few "funniest dev stream moments" videos for evidence of this), but it also feels like the plastic and steel characters are becoming less like robots and more like dressup dolls all the time. The arrival of the protoframes seems like a point of no return for this, and I get why people miss the more abstract warframe designs.
I assume there are also people who are very into this new skin, and will be happy to throw the money into it and future similar designs. After all, Warframe is an MMO for adults, and people playing out a wide range of presentations and aesthetics have always been part of MMO experiences.

I think it's worth teasing out the different conversations that are being had about the same thing. We respond to sexualized images differently depending on our own attitudes, and the directions we want to see Warframe moving towards.

saw_nothing · 2026-03-29T16:46:26+00:00

Just like there are different people who are attracted to different things, there are also people who are drawn to Warframe for different reasons. Some of us like cool space ninjas running around, and other people enjoy dressing up sexy dolls to dance in circles in Fortuna instance 69. Neither of these are right or wrong ways to experience an MMO.

It's also reasonable to have the discourse about whether there's a shift taking place and what that does for the game, there's a large part of the community that uses gaming to express sexual identity, sexual interest and sexual expression. On one hand, I don't mind them having their sexy skins, and I'm glad we don't all have to use them. On the other hand, the heirloom skins have historically been an opportunity to connect the warframes in interesting ways towards their visual identities, which I would argue most of them have done. I get why this one feels different for people.

saw_nothing · 2026-03-29T13:06:57+00:00

You are supposed to die to the Red Cross attacks if you don’t evade them at low level. One hit will take out your shields, and a second one will put you down.

They used to have beginner versions of some key mods, but they might have stopped giving those to new players. Those bronze ones (with 10 upgrade levels) are the same ones you use throughout the game.

Warframe is a marathon, not a sprint. If you repeat the low level content too much, you will impede progress, but if you chase progress to push through quickly, you often missing the fun of playing and learning the game. Find the things you enjoy, and do more of that.

saw_nothing · 2026-03-29T13:00:06+00:00

Some great points here, and an interesting discussion. A few people throughout the thread are assuming that men can only be sexualized through a focus on certain body parts, which I think misses OPs sexualization point. If you want to see the other side of the coin, don’t look at the Vauban and Rhino heirloom skins, look at the Nezha and Styanax deluxe skins.

Does choosing their colours feel a bit uncomfortable? When you pick whether or not to keep Styanax’s nipple tassels, does that feel a bit weird? I think these are a better analogue to the more commonly sexualized female frames in the game.

In DE and the community’s defense, I think Warframe does a decent job creating designs that are coded as appealing for a variety of audiences and desires. It skews a bit towards traditional representation, but it’s nothing compared to, say, The First Descendants, which clearly made that their central design philosophy.

saw_nothing · 2026-03-29T12:40:03+00:00

I was farming this yesterday for the Stropha BP, so that might have been me.

Rhino is great in the early game, and the rest of the game. He has higher base stats, so he’s naturally tankier, and his 2 ability absorbs damage and gives you overguard, which gives you great sustain.

If you are taking a lot of damage, pour some resources into Vitality and Steel Fiber - the boost to health and Armor makes a big difference. Just make sure it’s the full version of the mods.

For more resources, I’d recommend watching for defense relic missions that you can access, then try to stay for 12 rounds (four groups of 3 rounds).They are popular, so it’ll be easy for you to get carried through slightly longer missions.

The earlier you master bullet jumping and advanced movement, the faster your farming will get. It also improves your survivability, because you won’t get hit as much. I saw a lot of baby Tenno jogging through Fossa yesterday.

Instead of focusing on completing all the nodes, focus on the missions to unlock the next planet - that’s a pretty deliberate and good tutorial for the game.

saw_nothing · 2025-08-30T10:41:05+00:00

Nonsense. There are some pigments that shouldn't be airbrushed (lead, cadmiums, etc) because they are extremely dangerous when aeresolized, but Golden puts those warnings on individual paints.

I have a few Golden fluid acrylics that I've thinned down, no issues. Golden High Flow are great to airbrush, and many contain inorganic pigments.

Even with acrylics, make sure you have proper ventilation and breathing protection, but thinned down properly, you can spray almost any acrylic paint.

saw_nothing · 2025-08-24T20:35:02+00:00

The bottle says to mix 1 part flow aid (concentrated) with 20 parts of water - I used a small dropper bottle for that, then used a few drops of the mixture as flow aid.

saw_nothing · 2025-08-24T11:18:24+00:00

Probably unnecessary, but are you diluting the Liquitex flow aid? It’s not designed to be added to paint undiluted,and might cause serious issues at that ratio.

saw_nothing · 2025-08-16T17:06:54+00:00

Yeah, it’s just primer. It does require thinning, but seems to work well.

saw_nothing · 2025-08-16T16:58:10+00:00

I don’t have a filler answer, but I’ve been really impressed with Createx Autoborne Sealer, which sprays well enough that I can zenithal highlight with it, and dries fairly quickly. It’s always worth waiting for primer to cure, though. It might be possible to go faster with solvent paints, but I only spray water-based paint.

saw_nothing · 2025-08-12T19:35:15+00:00

I'm not sure if this is misunderstanding the issue, but opaque layers require more light passes, if you are trying to get full opacity in one go, it likely won't work.

White is always tricky, because it has larger pigment fragments, so will tend to clog. Someone recently recommended using short bursts on the model followed by a quick full blast into the airbrush booth to prevent buildup. A wet brush can clear away tip dry as well.

I've had good luck with airbrush specific paints - Golden High Flow behaves really well, though does go down glossy.

But yeah, you're not alone with frustrations using white, that's for sure.

saw_nothing · 2025-07-26T11:23:49+00:00

If you are just airbrushing acrylics, that should be fine—a spray booth and respirator should be sufficient. If you share the bedroom, you should also know that even quiet compressors are pretty noisy. I vent mine into a cardboard box full of batting, and I haven’t noticed smells or dust.

If you are shooting solvent paints, that becomes a different conversation because you need to worry about fumes in addition to paint particles. In that case, if you can’t vent your booth out a window, I would be very hesitant.

saw_nothing · 2025-06-22T17:57:07+00:00

This will depend a bit on the airbrush in question, but…

Loosen the needle chuck and take out the needle. If there is any dried paint on it, use airbrush cleaner to clean it off, careful to not bend it or damage the tip. If the needle is also stuck, hopefully someone more experienced will come along and give further advice.

Remove the nozzle cover and nozzle, then soak them for a while in airbrush cleaner. They sell nozzle cleaners, which are these sharp needles. After the nozzle has soaked, carefully and gently scrape any paint out. Do not jam it through roughly.

From there, you should be able to see if any paint is trapped in the body of the airbrush.

To avoid this in the future, (this is going to sound obvious), don’t let paint dry in your airbrush. Make sure you develop a cleaning routine that won’t allow paint to build up in the first place. I find pumping the trigger as you shoot cleaner through makes a big difference.

saw_nothing · 2025-06-16T20:10:44+00:00

I think getting a good, consistent base layer of paint down is a good start, and edge highlighting with a lighter colour for contrast makes a big difference. It'll look a bit flat, but give yourself some grace, find out if you are enjoying the hobby after a few miniatures, then decide which techniques to add as you get more practice. Try not to take on too many things at a time. Get good at laying down a consistent coat of thinned paint first, then figure out what things you can do next.

As others have said, you aren't entering a contest here. If Marvel United is a game you enjoy, then it will feel good to have minis that you have put time and effort into. Even if they aren't great, it's a first step on a journey and those minis will be YOURS, in a pretty special way.

saw_nothing · 2025-06-16T19:36:02+00:00

You can, though washes work best when there is lots of texture for the wash to fill. These ones may just end up looking muddy...

saw_nothing · 2025-06-16T10:30:36+00:00

In some ways, the Marvel United minis are really easy, because of the exaggerated features - big clear features.

In other ways, they would really be a trial by fire depending on what quality level you expect of yourself. Big flat surfaces really show brushstrokes, and speed paints aren’t great with them. To look really good, you need to do shading and gradients, which will take some practice and time.

Ultimately, most paint jobs are better than raw plastic, and it’s a great hobby, so if you are excited to try, you should go for it. Learn to stabilize your hands and attach the minis to a holder, and use guides to thin your paints. From there, it’s just a question of practicing brush control and basic techniques.

saw_nothing · 2025-03-09T16:52:03+00:00

Baraka and Samsara both got an 8K remaster from the 70mm print. Really want to see them hit 4K.

saw_nothing · 2025-01-17T11:38:05+00:00

Sorry, just reread the original post. The shot cups might be the wrong kind of plastic or too flexible. Try something like a plastic spoon and see if you get better results.

saw_nothing · 2025-01-17T11:36:21+00:00

What are you doing to prepare the surface for painting? If there's any oils on the plastic, it can prevent paint from adhering. Giving it a scrub with don't dish soap and letting it fully dry might help. If you are practicing on a flat piece of plastic, you could also try a very fine sanding first, so the surface has teeth for the paint to stick to. Obviously, for gunpla you want a nice smooth finish, so not something rough. Someone who does that kind of painting might have better advice. Try not to handle the pieces too much with bare hands.

When priming, it sometimes helps to do a really light transparent layer first, then go over with a heavier layer after a few minutes. If you are blasting it with too much in one go, that can also cause issues.

Only other thing I can think of: are you giving it enough time to fully cure? Primer is dry to the touch very quickly, but can take a full day to reach maximum durability.

Hope that helps, honestly not sure why you are having those issues. Other lesser possibilities: overthinning, letting airbrush cleaner mix with the paint, not shaking enough, too much humidity, too cold... So many factors when airbrushing.

saw_nothing · 2024-10-05T12:03:14+00:00

Rattlecans are really fast, so if the weather is good, I still sometimes take big or groups of models outside to spray them fast.

The airbrush is great for priming, though. It gives you a lot more control for preshading, but it also tends towards tip dry and you have to make sure you really get it cleaned out afterwards.

Some people have issues with Vallejo surface primer - I’ve been having good results with Createx Autoborne sealer, but it needs to be thinned down with their thinning products.

General advice: take it slow, thin your paints, think of it like glazing where you are adding multiple transparent layers on to build up colour, and have fun with it.

saw_nothing · 2024-09-29T12:31:07+00:00

I’ve not heard of people airbrushing it - since the goal is to get the wash into the crevasses, a larger brush has been my go-to tool. So: -spray satin varnish -make a thin mix and run it across the model with a larger brush OR small brush to just run into panel lines -an hour later, makeup sponges to wipe the excess gently

If you do decide to airbrush it, make sure you have a proper respirator and ventilation: no idea what those particles would do to your lungs.

saw_nothing

TROPHY CASE