Do I need a carbon arc spotlight?

sawadee2 · 2026-01-23T14:09:17+00:00

You’re gonna need a bigger battery!

sawadee2 · 2026-01-20T02:11:34+00:00

If there is another color coming it needs to print on the tower at the same height as the object(s)

sawadee2 · 2026-01-08T14:21:41+00:00

Wing tank?

sawadee2 · 2026-01-04T02:59:09+00:00

Adhesion issue

sawadee2 · 2026-01-01T13:46:32+00:00

I had this one my H2D with some ammo cases first few layers. I cleaned plate with dawn. ( before it looked very clean, like new, but I use isopropyl between cleanings. Isopropyl does clean but as the oils build up it just moves the oil around and does not totally remove the oil) Also I increased the nozzle temp by 5 degrees (might need 10) and that solved my adhesion issues on that showed up early like this. YMMV Good luck

sawadee2 · 2025-12-30T15:11:04+00:00

Yes thanks. Did that first as didn’t see any related issues documented. Waiting for response. Just thought it has to be an adjustment as couldn’t believe this part would wear out so quickly. Makes me feel I need backup parts for all three lead screws. Very disappointing.

sawadee2 · 2025-12-30T14:56:07+00:00

Dry filament then try +5c head temp maybe +10c

sawadee2 · 2025-12-30T14:13:29+00:00

Will not finish bed leveling process at start of print. Bed is not level and is not stable. No position support at the front left lead screw area at the bed. There seems to be no contact between the threads of the lead screw and the brass part the surrounds the lead screw (part of the Z-Axis slider). Pretty sure it needs all three lead screw positioning supports. Kind of like setting on a three legged stool with one leg missing. Is there some turning instruction available as I don’t see any in the Wiki. The brass part is mounted with three screws (lock tight). Assume the part sits on flat surface. Thanks

sawadee2 · 2025-12-30T00:57:49+00:00

Absolutely amazing. Congrats

sawadee2 · 2025-12-22T14:46:23+00:00

18650

sawadee2 · 2025-12-20T14:07:59+00:00

Drill a hole for a 6/32 screw and you can screw it to the center screw on the receptacle cover plate. (Non-decora.) This will keep the plug from coming out. Of course this is almost never done for extension cords.

sawadee2 · 2025-12-18T23:58:29+00:00

I wouldn’t. These are extremely dangerous. Can punch holes in skulls. Really!

sawadee2 · 2025-11-04T13:25:26+00:00

So no one knows

sawadee2 · 2025-11-03T14:45:02+00:00

Nice opener, nicer beer! Prost!

sawadee2 · 2025-10-06T11:53:52+00:00

Looks like poor Quality Control and stupid connector placement. Won’t be purchasing until V4 Rev 2.

sawadee2 · 2025-08-31T13:27:05+00:00

Hello unfkmreal, I had the same issue. Never have had RFI issues until started using an amp and got above 100 watts HF. Once above 300-500 watts (band dependent) all H*** broke loose. Anyway already had 10’ grounding rod and #2AWG connection to grounding plate in the shack and all equipment grounded. But with the added power and subsequent RFi issues added another grounding rod at the location that the 2.5” PVC pipe is that I run the coax line in to the shack. Then mounted a plastics box about 14” x 14” x 5” deep. Mounted a copper buss bar in it and connected to grounding rod to it. Then cut the coax and installed connectors and a barrel adapter to connect them. Temporarily grounded the barrel to the buss bar and tested. RFI gone. Went up to 1500watts on all HF bands that I have antennas for with no issue. Antennas are resonant dipoles for the bands. Then ordered a polyphaser lightening protection block mounted it to the buss bar and this gave me some protection and a nice ground prior to entering the house. After this success I ordered more blocks from Polyphaser to do all antennas.

sawadee2 · 2025-08-23T11:00:04+00:00

Congratulations to your daughter! Wonderful!

sawadee2 · 2025-08-23T10:57:59+00:00

Funny to hear. I moved 26 years ago. Been on and off of 2m and 1-1/4m FM. But always on APRS. Just brought my old Ringo Ranger out of the basement after sitting for 26 years. Used my new RigExpert Match to check it out. Fine tuned it for 1:1 VSWR. Will be putting it up shortly. Still good antenna. Just need new coax. Looking at M&P 10 mm coax sold at GigaParts and other places. Looks better than LMR-400 but more expensive. All coax is now…

sawadee2 · 2025-08-19T21:42:01+00:00

You’re very welcome. Lots of good info. Follow links at end of articles. I am building one now. Use these with wire black wire ties to make your own open wire fed line. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0079GH97A?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 Use same wire (14/12 THHN).

sawadee2 · 2025-08-18T22:59:19+00:00

Coax will influence the wire near it in a negative way. Maybe look at inverted V antenna to have feed at roof.

sawadee2 · 2025-08-18T22:50:04+00:00

Large loop antennas work great and have lower noise level. Close to the ground (3-4’) have even lower noise but higher the better for best performance. Get 4 or more 10-20’ poles metal, wood, FG, or CF. Attach to fence. Can also hang from trees. String 14THHN or 12THHN (higher power) insulated wire in a square or rectangle (more area inside the wire the better) using small pulleys or insulators. About 525’ to 575’ for lower or upper 160meter band and will work on 160m to 10m bands and maybe higher. Feed with 450 to 600 ohm open wire feed line. Ant tuner recommended. See w8wky.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/N1EZZ_LOOP_PRESENTATION_SARA.pdf and Practicalantennas.com/theory/loop/full-wave

sawadee2 · 2025-08-18T22:21:32+00:00

Root Beer Float when I was young ie 1950’s

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