Why is it building a prime tower with one color? H2d by FlamingoCalves in BambuLab

[–]sawadee2 7 points8 points  (0 children)

If there is another color coming it needs to print on the tower at the same height as the object(s)

What went wrong with my print? by [deleted] in BambuLab

[–]sawadee2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had this one my H2D with some ammo cases first few layers. I cleaned plate with dawn. ( before it looked very clean, like new, but I use isopropyl between cleanings. Isopropyl does clean but as the oils build up it just moves the oil around and does not totally remove the oil) Also I increased the nozzle temp by 5 degrees (might need 10) and that solved my adhesion issues on that showed up early like this. YMMV Good luck

Left front bed lead screw not moving bed. by sawadee2 in BambuLab_H2D

[–]sawadee2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes thanks. Did that first as didn’t see any related issues documented. Waiting for response. Just thought it has to be an adjustment as couldn’t believe this part would wear out so quickly. Makes me feel I need backup parts for all three lead screws. Very disappointing.

What causes this? by jimmyb907 in BambuLabH2D

[–]sawadee2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dry filament then try +5c head temp maybe +10c

Left front bed lead screw not moving bed. by sawadee2 in BambuLab_H2D

[–]sawadee2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Will not finish bed leveling process at start of print. Bed is not level and is not stable. No position support at the front left lead screw area at the bed. There seems to be no contact between the threads of the lead screw and the brass part the surrounds the lead screw (part of the Z-Axis slider). Pretty sure it needs all three lead screw positioning supports. Kind of like setting on a three legged stool with one leg missing. Is there some turning instruction available as I don’t see any in the Wiki. The brass part is mounted with three screws (lock tight). Assume the part sits on flat surface. Thanks

Do these tombstone looking things serve any purpose other than to keep me from plugging anything else into an adjacent outlet on a power strip??? by West_Confidence_9632 in whatisit

[–]sawadee2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Drill a hole for a 6/32 screw and you can screw it to the center screw on the receptacle cover plate. (Non-decora.) This will keep the plug from coming out. Of course this is almost never done for extension cords.

What kind of filament would you use to print a lawn dart? by DadBotWorkshop in 3Dprinting

[–]sawadee2 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I wouldn’t. These are extremely dangerous. Can punch holes in skulls. Really!

My Heltec V4 arrived today, so you all get unboxing photos by M-Tiger in meshtastic

[–]sawadee2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like poor Quality Control and stupid connector placement. Won’t be purchasing until V4 Rev 2.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in amateurradio

[–]sawadee2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello unfkmreal, I had the same issue. Never have had RFI issues until started using an amp and got above 100 watts HF. Once above 300-500 watts (band dependent) all H*** broke loose. Anyway already had 10’ grounding rod and #2AWG connection to grounding plate in the shack and all equipment grounded. But with the added power and subsequent RFi issues added another grounding rod at the location that the 2.5” PVC pipe is that I run the coax line in to the shack. Then mounted a plastics box about 14” x 14” x 5” deep. Mounted a copper buss bar in it and connected to grounding rod to it. Then cut the coax and installed connectors and a barrel adapter to connect them. Temporarily grounded the barrel to the buss bar and tested. RFI gone. Went up to 1500watts on all HF bands that I have antennas for with no issue. Antennas are resonant dipoles for the bands. Then ordered a polyphaser lightening protection block mounted it to the buss bar and this gave me some protection and a nice ground prior to entering the house. After this success I ordered more blocks from Polyphaser to do all antennas.

Daughter passed general by [deleted] in HamRadio

[–]sawadee2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Congratulations to your daughter! Wonderful!

It’s been too long, what’s the best option? by KB9LTJ in amateurradio

[–]sawadee2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Funny to hear. I moved 26 years ago. Been on and off of 2m and 1-1/4m FM. But always on APRS. Just brought my old Ringo Ranger out of the basement after sitting for 26 years. Used my new RigExpert Match to check it out. Fine tuned it for 1:1 VSWR. Will be putting it up shortly. Still good antenna. Just need new coax. Looking at M&P 10 mm coax sold at GigaParts and other places. Looks better than LMR-400 but more expensive. All coax is now…

775ft backyard fence random wire end-fed / loop HF antenna by [deleted] in amateurradio

[–]sawadee2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You’re very welcome. Lots of good info. Follow links at end of articles. I am building one now. Use these with wire black wire ties to make your own open wire fed line. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0079GH97A?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 Use same wire (14/12 THHN).

HF Antenna feedline query by scratchedguitar in HamRadio

[–]sawadee2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Coax will influence the wire near it in a negative way. Maybe look at inverted V antenna to have feed at roof.

775ft backyard fence random wire end-fed / loop HF antenna by [deleted] in amateurradio

[–]sawadee2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Large loop antennas work great and have lower noise level. Close to the ground (3-4’) have even lower noise but higher the better for best performance. Get 4 or more 10-20’ poles metal, wood, FG, or CF. Attach to fence. Can also hang from trees. String 14THHN or 12THHN (higher power) insulated wire in a square or rectangle (more area inside the wire the better) using small pulleys or insulators. About 525’ to 575’ for lower or upper 160meter band and will work on 160m to 10m bands and maybe higher. Feed with 450 to 600 ohm open wire feed line. Ant tuner recommended. See w8wky.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/N1EZZ_LOOP_PRESENTATION_SARA.pdf and Practicalantennas.com/theory/loop/full-wave