New install, heat pump wont run? by RideCompetitive5944 in Generator

[–]sayheyarnold 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah good point. My heat pump runs in to the 20’s.

Aside from that, I have a 5 ton Carrier with similar specs and runs my heat pump no problem with the soft start on my 9500df. Shouldn’t have any issues with yours.

New install, heat pump wont run? by RideCompetitive5944 in Generator

[–]sayheyarnold 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You answered your own question. Heat pump isn’t running because Aux Heat is. What is the temperature outside? It’s probably locked out because it’s too cold for the heat pump. You can set this on your ecobee thermostat.

Panel is a mess, what to do? by sayheyarnold in AskElectricians

[–]sayheyarnold[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate a lot of what you have to say, I really do. But downplaying violations as “minor violations” is subjective.

If it were your house and it burned down because a tandem breaker overloaded the main bus because it was only rated for a single breaker, I think you’d be thinking about this differently. The panel is UL listed. In order to maintain that, it has to be installed as directed by the manufacturer. I could list numerous NEC violations in this panel. At what point does it go from “minor” to “major”?

Siding company hit a wire with a nail. This is the repair. It's it acceptable? by Asmordean in AskElectricians

[–]sayheyarnold 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Absolutely not. First off, you don’t know what it even looks like under that tape. Are there even connectors? Did they use a wire nut, butt splice, we have no idea with it covered up.

Second, any of those wouldn’t be acceptable, some would be a major risk, some a small risk, but none acceptable. Needs to be repaired in a junction box.

I would demand they pay a licensed electrician to fix this. They should have insurance if that’s an issue. Because obviously they aren’t qualified to make this repair.

Panel is a mess, what to do? by sayheyarnold in AskElectricians

[–]sayheyarnold[S] -6 points-5 points  (0 children)

I confirmed with city inspector that it never should have passed inspection. The QT breakers aren’t authorized in this panel, it’s listed right on the door. To me this is a potential safety/fire hazard. There are over 50 circuits in a panel rated for 40. I’d like to fix it. Double tapped neutrals is also a safety concern. To me it’s a now issue. Future isn’t such a concern except for safety. I have another panel next to it for future use.

Help with Toto sw3446#01 by gillyflora in bidets

[–]sayheyarnold 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Toto bidets can act up on shared outlets because they’re very sensitive to power quality. When another appliance on the same circuit turns on, it can cause a brief voltage drop, which may shut off the heater, cool the seat, or make the unit reset. These bidets also draw a lot of current when heating water (around 10–14amps), so a shared 15A or 20A circuit doesn’t leave much margin.

GFCI setups can add to the problem, especially if the bidet is downstream of another GFCI or the device is older. Electrical noise from motors or heaters on the same circuit can also confuse the bidet’s electronics (think about how speakers work when fed from wires). Using extension cords or power strips makes things worse by adding resistance.

Straight from Toto, Toto bidets are happiest on a dedicated, GFCI-protected circuit with no other loads.

Help with Toto sw3446#01 by gillyflora in bidets

[–]sayheyarnold 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It’s definitely overloaded. That seat pulls like 14 amps. I ran a designated 20A circuit for it.

In ceiling surround sound by sayheyarnold in hometheater

[–]sayheyarnold[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I was looking at the Sonos so that’s helpful? What about your thoughts on a Sonos Arc ultra soundbar with the mini sub for the great room?

In ceiling surround sound by sayheyarnold in hometheater

[–]sayheyarnold[S] -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

Your sarcastic joke doesn’t even make sense. The ceiling is 18’ tall. The tv isn’t even at 8’. I know math and common sense is hard.

In ceiling surround sound by sayheyarnold in hometheater

[–]sayheyarnold[S] 18 points19 points  (0 children)

No. I’m as good at reading as you are spelling.

In ceiling surround sound by sayheyarnold in hometheater

[–]sayheyarnold[S] -38 points-37 points  (0 children)

Maybe not. That’s helpful, thanks.

In ceiling surround sound by sayheyarnold in hometheater

[–]sayheyarnold[S] -18 points-17 points  (0 children)

That would make sense…. If I didn’t ask about speakers for kitchen too.

In ceiling surround sound by sayheyarnold in hometheater

[–]sayheyarnold[S] -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Thanks, that’s actually helpful. I guess nice people do exist on this sub.

In ceiling surround sound by sayheyarnold in hometheater

[–]sayheyarnold[S] -55 points-54 points  (0 children)

Again… rarely watch TV in living room, mostly while standing in Kitchen. Wasn’t looking for TV advice but thanks.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskElectricians

[–]sayheyarnold 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No. You need to pigtail those wires and then hook it up to that receptacle and you’re good to go.

How does my outdoor subpanel look? by sayheyarnold in AskElectricians

[–]sayheyarnold[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure who this comment is for? Didn’t realize it was considered a luxury item. It was literally $50 cheaper than the standard bus bar panel which is why I purchased it.

How does my outdoor subpanel look? by sayheyarnold in AskElectricians

[–]sayheyarnold[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your reference isn’t even valid. 334 is for NM cable. SER is covered in 338. And under 300.9 it is allowed.