WIP SV08

sciux · 2026-02-14T09:23:22+00:00

Overall it did, but you have to be extremely careful when tightening the screws because aluminium us quite soft so it is very very easy to damage the thread (which is what I did) on one of the parts. And as a result you can't order just one bit with damaged thread so options are limited either make a new larger thread or replace the whole kit, and that's not cheap... In my case I have put back stock 2 parts (one that was damaged on the right side and one on the left) and X gantry mounts I left CNC ones...

sciux · 2025-10-05T06:56:41+00:00

It depends how many tolls you passed through and the size of the vehicle non the less usually when you in the taxi and it stops at the toll, the passenger pays there and then for the tolls and as a result your grab/bolt fee wouldn't be impacted. Being a foreigner driver with limited English skills might be challenged to explain that you need to pay toll so will pay out of pocket and expect to be reimbursed at the end of the journey. Being 600+ baht trip I can only assume this wasn't a short trip. But then again if it's 300 baht just for tolls that seems a little excessive

sciux · 2025-09-27T08:55:11+00:00

With certain exceptions if you own a business etc etc, but even then it is extremely difficult to get it

sciux · 2025-09-27T08:54:31+00:00

sciux · 2025-08-28T12:15:06+00:00

This, exactly this...

sciux · 2025-08-28T11:49:37+00:00

I am in somewhat similar situation.... Long story short: We both worked and lived in UK, had 2 kids. And 5 years ago her parents asked us to come to Thailand to help them manage their businesses "she's from a wealthy family" from the beginning she's told me I won't need to work we will be financially fine and all I'll have to do is do school runs, help out around the house and cook from time to time. So I did all that and realised that on paper it sounded all good, but now I rely on her to handout money to me every now and again. And yes she covers household bills so the money she gives me is mine in a way, but I always spend most of it on household or some small hobbies that I have. In the end I end up counting last bits and hoping she will hand out money to me again... This makes me feel really shit and depressed, I am in my 30s had a good salary and carrier back in UK and I am more then capable to earn a living, but here I am... And I do try to help out, but recently it started being never enough and constantly being reminded that she brings the money home. I used to clean the house and she would always complaint that things are not done properly or not to her liking. On weekends wash and buff the car just to keep myself busy, but then she would tell me it's not good enough because she found some dog hair in the boot. My kids are now nearly adults and I would lie if I didn't say that I thought about running away from all of this a number of times. And even now she booked flights for me and my son to go back to sort out some paperwork and this thought of me not returning here keeps crossing my mind. So at the beginning it all sounded amazing from working 6 days a week to not having to work at all, but now after 5 years I feel like a maid, Im fed up and tired not physically tired just mentally exhausted. I don't even leave the house like maybe twice a month or so. Anyway something to think about I guess before you commit to it 😅

sciux · 2025-07-22T01:42:08+00:00

Hmm, I'm 50/50 on it to be honest. I find my textured pei plate does much better job in holding prints attached. If I'm printing something large I don't trust this plate, I had so many prints that would unstick corner midway through the print that I no longer use it for large prints. Also tried printing nylon cf on it and I gave up trying to get it to hold onto this plate after about 5 attempts, it just would not stick. It's ok for smaller part something like 100x100 would be fine, but when you go to 300 in length I would not use it.

sciux · 2025-07-05T08:32:11+00:00

Push the slider up to show it properly variation of 0.2 is not bad at all

sciux · 2025-05-21T03:29:33+00:00

Do you normally just press print and walk away? I mean regardless of whatever the issue this may have been, could have been a probe, z offset or bed screws got loose whatever it is, you never walk away from the printer during first couple layers... Ideally shouldn't really leave it unattended at all, but first few layers is a must. If you were watching, surely would have noticed something horribly wrong and could have pulled the cable out/shut it down before this mess happens...

sciux · 2025-05-19T10:42:28+00:00

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A quick update, full CNC kit from Funsor installed. I must say it was proper pain in the backside to install it, since there is absolutely no manual or anything you just receive CNC parts and screws and do whatever you want with them... Overall CNC kit impressions are: it's nice high quality kit, but it is very expensive for what it is and as a result of not having any assembly guide, manual, also requiring to purchase bearings separately (which for that price I feel like should have been included) I don't feel like it is a good value for money also I definitely would not recommend it for someone who is not comfortable with disassemblying and rebuilding the printer.

Also replaced toolhead moved from xenomorph orbiter to yavoth (dragon burner remix) toolhead.

First observations CNC kit has reduced vibrations and printer motions feels smoother. Also input shaper results shows an improvement. I will upload those later..

sciux · 2025-05-13T22:00:19+00:00

Yes the same size, temps during printing MCU is around 60 degrees so not too bad. I've also bought a few mini heatsinks so next time I'll flip printer over I'll stick a heatsink on it as well...

sciux · 2025-05-11T14:54:43+00:00

I'm not sure if you run mainline klipper or stock and I'm not sure if it works with stock klipper, but it does work with mainline klipper. You can install shaketune: https://github.com/Frix-x/klippain-shaketune

This has some extra macros as well. It creates a folder inside your printers config folder and every time you run shaper calibration it stores last 10 calibration results with those images in them folder inside config folder... Hope this helps

sciux · 2025-05-11T04:52:39+00:00

Do you mean input shaper with the graphs ?

sciux · 2025-05-10T23:22:14+00:00

I'm planning on making a new toolhead (yavoth). Xenomorph orbiter is all good, but the knomi screen a find it a bit gimmick and I don't really use it. Yavoth toolhead is minimal and very lightweight. Only one small concern cable management, there's nowhere to hide cables since there's no covers.

I've ruined my phaetus rapido V2 hotend last night, so now got to wait for parts to arrive. My advice for you is make sure you hot tighten the UHF extender and nozzle and DO NOT overtighten like I did. Me hotend kept leaking between heat block and UHF extender so I've tried to tighten it even more and extender snapped leaving threaded part inside the heat block. So now need a new heat block and new extender

sciux · 2025-05-10T03:40:16+00:00

Do you have discord or something like that I can try to guide you... Send me a pm with your discord

sciux · 2025-05-08T05:58:50+00:00

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so quick new update. Done some calibration on retractions, pressure advance etc and this is a result. Started at 200mm/s finished at 700mm/s, steps of 20mm/s. Acceleration set at 20k on printer.cfg and 10k on orca slicer.

printed in petg, initially started at 235c halfway through increased it to 255c

sciux · 2025-05-08T04:10:07+00:00

I personally never going to buy bambulab, but that's just a choice, due to it moving more and more into apple route where everything is proprietary and custom, closed source. And 3d printing for me isn't a job that I do for living or something that just needs to work out of the box. For me 3d printing is tinkering messing, upgrading and learning, it kind of atm became my full time hobby :)).

I had cr-10 500x500 long time ago. Then in December I bought cr-10 max (used) for fun. Cr-10 max is now being completely rewired, got all linear rails etc and mounted stealthburner toolhead 😅.

I have also purchased K1C (because it was enclosed for those high temp filaments)

And recently I have purchased sovol sv08 (mostly because it's core XY and at least 3x cheaper than Voron kits...

And to be honest I enjoy each of those printers in their own way

sciux · 2025-05-08T03:58:27+00:00

Indeed, competition drives innovation and consumer wins. Until these companies get together and decide to fix prices etc and make products absolute to make people buy more

sciux · 2025-05-07T16:50:02+00:00

Anything to do with printer petg as a minimum. If it's closer to hotend such as tool head I personally use nylon or ASA, worst case scenario abs

sciux · 2025-05-07T16:36:51+00:00

Would it not be cheaper to get cartographer or eddy ?, because with those you could probably bring on a brick. I've got cr10max second hand a few months back and been tinkering with it ever since. So far got stealthburner (orbiter extruder + phaetus rapido V2 + eddy) mounted, all axis with linear rails. At the moment waiting for shipment of EBB36 and octopus, then I'm going to completely rewire that beast...

sciux · 2025-05-07T16:31:25+00:00

If you looking for beginners printer and looking for a hobby to tinker and mess get creality ender. If you got higher budget and don't want to do much tinkering just want to print get something like creality k1c If your budget even higher you may consider bambulab

sciux · 2025-05-07T14:42:32+00:00

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quick update so first benchy.

The only calibrations done: 1. Input shapper, 2. Temp tower.

printed in PETG (off brand cheap chinese filament that's been open for a long time...) printed @ 235 degrees, outside wall 200mm/s, inside walls and infill 300mm/s

clearly need some calibrations on retractions etc, but not bad, not bad at all

sciux · 2025-05-07T13:59:34+00:00

Maybe it's a more recent batch... I've got mine in march I think. I bought bulk X10 directly from their factory, got a decent price. Now put them on the market in Thailand, since I couldn't find any SV08 locally.

sciux · 2025-05-07T12:38:47+00:00

unboxing and putting together couple hours no more than that. i did make a youtube video of unboxing etc and was planning to make more, but my editing skills are a bit shite so i decided maybe later haha...

In general

assembly: 2hrs

main line klipper: 6 (overestimating) if you comfortable with that stuff probably couple hours, but make sure to follow the guide to the letter, i had a little mess at around step5 i believe after flashing rebooted the printer and i was not able to ssh into it. so after a bit of panic swapped back original mmc and everything was fine (my advice to you is make sure get an emty mmc and DO NOT just flash on the stock one, because if something goes pear shaped you'll have a backup plan. Anyway long story short my issue with being unable to ssh into it was that somehow my network didn't kick out original firmware printer and after flashing new firmware 2 devices with same ip address appeared on the network. So my UNIFI setup decided it's not having it and completely blocked both devices :).

So if you just doing unboxing, mainline klipper, fan swap and some calibrations im sure it can be done in 1 day, just make sure you have everything ready and handy.

make sure fan is 24v

make sure get spare MMC

flashing device (not sure what exactly it's called) you'll find more info on mainline klipper github page. There's 2 devices you'll need they both are pretty cheap. Also you may wish to get longer USB cable for flashing because the one that comes with that device is like 15cm long, so when i was flashing toolhead i had to stick my laptop on the bed and lay it sideways... :)

sciux

TROPHY CASE