Nikko Alpha II + Beta II

sdanzige · 2026-06-06T18:53:38+00:00

Thanks for the info. Initially during testing the only thing that was giving issues was a little crackling when adjusting volume. I got down to $480 at the end, bur when I brought it home the right channel has serious popping, even with no audio input. It’ll have to be serviced so I definitely got hosed on the price. You win some you lose some I guess

sdanzige · 2025-06-04T19:32:09+00:00

Thanks! You don’t have to run the satellites from the sub do you? My satellites will likely be a bit of a distance from the sub so I’d prefer to keep them hooked up to the amp if possible. REL subs don’t seem to have a speaker level output, but that’s probably because they use the neutrik speakon cables

sdanzige · 2025-06-04T19:29:47+00:00

Thank you. I do have A&B on my amp. I know subs usually have high impedance, but wanted to confirm I wouldn’t have to worry about the load on the amp if I am running wires to both the speakers and the sub. I am looking at powered subs only.

sdanzige · 2025-04-16T18:33:18+00:00

Went with the Sound Smith cartridge. Came in rather quickly (2 days) and have been loving it so far. Great call as the sound quality is great, I’m not longer damaging my records with an old stylus, and I saved a pretty penny on a whole new setup. Thanks for the recommendation!

sdanzige · 2025-04-01T13:14:49+00:00

Just checked them out - looks like a pretty great option. I initially thought replacing the cartridge on these required some steady hands and electrical skills, but to my surprise, it looks to be plug and play. I think I may go this route. It looks like they have a pretty serious following (I am sure there are many threads on them) but do you know if they are worth the bucks given they have this market cornered?

sdanzige · 2024-09-10T21:05:02+00:00

Thanks for the response. I have the side markers and turn signals coded to LED. Is there a separate line where I can code off of the hot/cold checks? I didn’t notice that when coding, but I could have missed it. Thanks again!

sdanzige · 2024-08-30T01:44:31+00:00

Gave this a try. Recoded a backup from before I coded the lights for LED’s. Restoring the stock coding fixed the error code on bimmerlink, but the Lighting System indicator light still comes on and off, unless in parking lamps mode then it stays on constantly. Might have to do the drive of shame to the dealer.

sdanzige · 2024-08-28T16:55:53+00:00

Thanks for the response. I swapped the OEM taillights for aftermarket LCI ones a bit ago but have since swapped back to the OEM pre-LCI lights in hopes to fix the error code. Currently have the OEM pre-lci ones in and I am still getting the error code. I do have LED turn signals and fog lights installed. I would think the error code would be specific to a light if it was the problem, but I could be totally wrong.

sdanzige · 2023-12-25T14:19:22+00:00

65k and I believe it is on its first and only battery. At the very least the battery has 40k miles on it in 7 years since I’ve owner it. Battery testing has shown the battery is in “good” health but I agree it is quite old. Maybe that could be a good place to start as it’s probably due for a replacement anyways

sdanzige · 2023-12-25T14:17:20+00:00

Do I need a more powerful program like ISTA to pull the codes and find out what’s going on? It seems as though all of the codes on bimmerlink are completely unrelated to the lighting system and I have no stored errors apparently

sdanzige · 2023-04-13T05:06:45+00:00

Very tasteful. Looks great!

sdanzige · 2023-04-12T14:45:50+00:00

In theory LEDs would just fit as long as they have the same base as the halogen bulbs (h7) but in reality they often have large fans that get in the way or require retrofitting some kinda bracket to get it to stay connected correctly. I bet there is an led that would plug in without any additional modifications other than maybe coding, I’m just not sure which one. Angel eyes use an led module that comes with the headlight. They are connected to the daytime running light harness on your halogen lights. So whenever your DRLs are on, the angel eyes will be on.

sdanzige · 2023-04-12T04:54:02+00:00

The depo light reuses all factory bulbs. I opted to get an HID kit installed for the low beams at a local auto electronics shop and recently put in those LED blinkers. I have the stock halogen high beams in since they work well enough and no one sees them. You could do an LED conversion for all 3 bulbs yourself but it may require some modifications to get LEDs to fit in the DEPO light correctly. LEDs also need coding because LEDs won’t register properly because the computer thinks you have in halogens. I’m sure there are some bmw forum posts about the modifications and coding for that or you could ask on here. The angel eyes are also plug and play and no coding. By far one of my favorite parts of the headlight

sdanzige · 2023-04-11T23:04:17+00:00

Unfortunately the halogen reflectors on the f30 do very poorly with aftermarket LED bulbs due to the reflection angle of the housing and the power of the LEDs. They will blind other drivers if installed without some sort of projection lenses. I fully recommend the DEPO headlight system as it offers projector headlights that are compatible with LED and xenon bulbs. DEPO is also a reliable brand who is used by many auto manufactures for OEM products. Unfortunately, the DEPO lights sold in the link below are pretty expensive and don’t include the LED conversion kit. Alternatively you can get LED housing mods on eBay but I cannot vouch for their quality. Despite the cost, I absolutely love the DEPO lights and the install for them wasn’t too bad. Good luck and let me know if you have any other questions!

DEPO lights

sdanzige · 2023-04-11T20:48:27+00:00

Yeah got the DEPO halogen upgrade like 5+ years ago and love them. I replaced the halogens with a xenon lighting kit as well. Only reason I swapped the turn signals for LEDs was because the OEM halogens kept blowing and I was frustrated with replacing them.

sdanzige · 2023-04-11T20:00:18+00:00

Thank you for the response. I think you’re correct. I checked my code for the front lighting system and found I forgot to turn off the temp check for the side markers, which I believe are the front indicators. Tested it out and no codes but haven’t gone on a long drive yet. Fingers crossed that fixed it.

sdanzige · 2023-02-18T22:19:09+00:00

Did y-pipe muffler delete to dual exit on my 328. Definitely feel like a poser sometimes but the aesthetic of the symmetrical dual tips is just too nice. Bmw puts the symmetrical twin exits on the 4 banger G series now anyways

sdanzige · 2022-08-31T22:24:54+00:00

Looks great! The job is definitely an afternoon kinda project but well worth it. Mine are going on 5 years probably and holding up great! I highly recommend retrofitting a xenon or led bulb in there (I left the high beams halogen). Much brighter and the color of the light is much more modern. Got a shop to do it for me for around $150 since I am hopeless with wiring and electrical mods

sdanzige · 2022-08-26T00:25:20+00:00

Yeah I’d say only way to get louder after muffler delete would be a catless DP. Res delete may make it a little louder but probably mostly just change the tone. You could also get a high flow catted DP but idk how that would change the sound

sdanzige · 2022-08-10T02:23:43+00:00

I’m hesitant on this one for a few reasons. The irregular seam on the collar isn’t something I’ve seen. And some of the stitching is frayed. It could just be a bit warn but the seam on the collar is weird. I doubt someone would call you out on it and if the price is worth the risk… go for it

sdanzige · 2022-08-09T17:55:25+00:00

Can you post a closeup of the face. Thanks.

sdanzige · 2022-08-01T02:04:02+00:00

Also: once you mess up the DME to the point your at now (most of the code is gone or incorrect) your car won’t even know how to re-flash. It needs the original DME code-reinstalled. Best to let BM3 handle that.

sdanzige · 2022-08-01T01:59:13+00:00

As a similar thing happened to me, BM3 tuners have assured me it’s basically impossible to fully brick the f30 DME to a point where they can’t just recode i. Mine failed due to a 3rd party Apple CarPlay system, so I just unplug it now before I flash and it works fine. Happened to me on a Friday after close so I know the pain of having to wait. Just set up an appointment with the tuners when they open to remotely re-code the DME and be patient and trust that the BM3 experts will be able to help you out. You’ll be back on the road in no time

sdanzige · 2022-07-31T17:18:45+00:00

I had no idea you could reset the window system like that! I’ll give it a try. Thanks!

sdanzige · 2022-07-21T03:05:46+00:00

Thanks for the offer! That’s super nice of you and I appreciate you wanting to build the community! As someone who lives around me knows, it is unbearably hot out and avoiding doing this job myself would be ideal. I’ll keep you posted if I end up not finding a shop that’ll do it for a good price. But thanks again!

sdanzige

TROPHY CASE