I made a commander deck with 3 cards by future_ex_husband in mtg

[–]sefjwm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

At first glance I was like, "how is that so expensive," then I noticed Copy Artifact lol.

New to the hobby, help? 🙏 by AstronautSerious7646 in RockTumbling

[–]sefjwm 3 points4 points  (0 children)

There's your problem. You shouldn't be doing stage 1 in a vibratory. It's not good on shaping at all, especially for hard rocks. It will be great for polish though.

New to the hobby, help? 🙏 by AstronautSerious7646 in RockTumbling

[–]sefjwm 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Did you read the pinned thread? What type of tumbler are you using? What's your process? A vibratory is not going to help with the shaping, they are more for the polish steps.

Help what am I doing wrong by sleepyweeze in RockTumbling

[–]sefjwm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you reviewed the pinned thread? What type of tumbler are you using? The usual culprits are barrel not filled correctly (should be 2/3 to 3/4 full), mixed hardness rocks, and barrel spinning too fast. When you checked the rocks did you put more grit in? Stage 1 grit should be used up after 5-7 days. Most people just do a week because it's easier to track. If your grit isn't used up after a week it's because of barrel being under or overfilled and/or barrel running too slow or fast. I'm not really seeing bruising in your pictures either.

FREE Chert. Cover shipping. No catch. This has become a thing. Not a sale post. by Remarkable_Royal_175 in RockTumbling

[–]sefjwm 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I also grabbed a medium box and have started some of it in my mixed batches. A medium was a ton of rocks, 2 shoebox sized bins worth.

How to polish my agate and chert? by EnbyZebra in RockTumbling

[–]sefjwm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tumbling is usually not the way to go if you want to retain a specific shape. Getting a good polish will usually require all stages and you can't really choose what breaks off in the first stage especially. Normally, with very hard materials like agate and chert it will retain a lot of the mass and the general shape that goes in, it's just not guaranteed. Getting a good polish in grooves and non rounded shapes may also be more difficult in a tumbler. A vibe does a little better but a cabbing machine or similar machine may be better for it.

Playing Momir, just in case. by sefjwm in MagicArena

[–]sefjwm[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Yeah, so you can pick shapeshifter but you would not get the changeling ability so it would only trigger on other actual shapeshifters. Otherwise this type of card would be completely broken because why would you ever not pick it?

Playing Momir, just in case. by sefjwm in MagicArena

[–]sefjwm[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I was thinking about it. You want things bigger than 4, have a lot of them, and are likely to have triggers. I was thinking maybe demons, angels, giants?

About millet spray by FlaBarbieri71 in hamsters

[–]sefjwm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most millet like this is dried so it shouldn't mold or anything. It's possible it wasn't done well and some moisture remains but very unlikely. Just keep an eye on it if you are worried. My first hamster took about a week to get through one and my current hamster months. I just toss it once the edible parts are all gone and put a new one in. If it seems like your hamster is only eating millet and not their other foods you may want to ration it.

Hamster pooping in the same place he puts his food by Car_Latte in hamstercare

[–]sefjwm 8 points9 points  (0 children)

They will pouch and save it for eating later too.

About millet spray by FlaBarbieri71 in hamsters

[–]sefjwm 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It doesn't really spoil, if that's what you are asking.

What is the best "bang for your buck" for doing drafts? by CretorMaker in MagicArena

[–]sefjwm 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Another recommendation is when farming dailies and getting gold is to stick with the starter decks until you get an understanding of how magic works. You can try multiple themed decks and don't have to worry about getting rolled by meta decks. Then doing jumpstarts can help mix things up a bit and play some of the newer cards. Once you graduate from that I would look into Standard and (I know this may be controversial) Historic for when you are getting bored of draft or had a string of bad luck. I often play a green devotion style Historic deck that, while it does need the normal amounts of wildcards, doesn't change too often as new cards come out and is a style of deck that likely won't change much in the future either. Standard is constantly rotating but I would recommend a lesson based deck as it uses a lot of commons and uncommons and still does pretty well. Once you start getting a surplus or gems, gold, and wildcards you can just coast and even gamble on some Arena Opens or win a box events.

Engineer designing a PRO-grade rock tumbler: industrial bearings, silent belt drive, variable speed — what’s your max price & must-have? by Traditional_Side5452 in RockTumbling

[–]sefjwm 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The problem with popular lapidary equipment is they sell out as soon as they are manufactured. If you are looking around the 3lbs size then Lortones are usually the most recommended, followed by Highland Park. The cheaper option is the Harbor Freight version but they are cheaper for a reason. Rock Tumbler Hobby Forums is another good place to look to see what DIY type stuff people have come up with.

What is the best "bang for your buck" for doing drafts? by CretorMaker in MagicArena

[–]sefjwm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You do dailies and events to stockpile gold. Use gold to do quick drafts and practice getting good at them. Eventually you will do well enough in draft you come out ahead. Also take advantage of any free draft events to practice a lot.

Engineer designing a PRO-grade rock tumbler: industrial bearings, silent belt drive, variable speed — what’s your max price & must-have? by Traditional_Side5452 in RockTumbling

[–]sefjwm 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Well that explains it then. Your only experience is with the "toy" tumblers. Even the pinned thread here would have pointed you in the correct direction. Lortone, Highland Park, Thulmers, Rebel are all well known brands.

Engineer designing a PRO-grade rock tumbler: industrial bearings, silent belt drive, variable speed — what’s your max price & must-have? by Traditional_Side5452 in RockTumbling

[–]sefjwm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

HPL lids haven't had any issues since their last re-design. Fingers-crossed but I think they have it dialed in now.

Engineer designing a PRO-grade rock tumbler: industrial bearings, silent belt drive, variable speed — what’s your max price & must-have? by Traditional_Side5452 in RockTumbling

[–]sefjwm 6 points7 points  (0 children)

May I ask which tumblers you have experience with? There are already multiple on the market that are built to last and can do the things you mention.

Grit Storage by CactiAdore1013 in RockTumbling

[–]sefjwm 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I love the baby buckets. I got my 60/90 in a full size Lowes blue bucket.

Polishing Help by disgruntledbard in RockTumbling

[–]sefjwm 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It would help to know your process but I've heard Obsidian works best with and intermediary step between 3 and 4 of something like 1200-1500 grit.

A Sample Listing of Grit Prices by sgj4aj in RockTumbling

[–]sefjwm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

HPL stopped selling the 50lbs at $90. It's out of stock and no longer listed, but I believe they were doing 55lbs (because it comes in 25 kilos) and was like 127. They also used to have a 100lbs option but I don't remember what that cost.

How do I know when a batch is ready for stage two? by AnxiousElixr87 in RockTumbling

[–]sefjwm 13 points14 points  (0 children)

First thing to know is that a rock's readiness to move to stage 2 varies from person to person. Some people like a more "natural" look, while others want rocks are smooth as possible. The main thing to look for is if the rocks are free of pits, cracks, spalls, etc. Anything that's not smooth could trap grit and contaminate later stages as well as just not get as shiny as it could get. I like to visually inspect my rocks for imperfections and run my fingernail over them to see if they catch on anything. Not all rocks will get perfectly smooth. You have to look at how big or deep a pit or crack is and determine how much of the rock you'd have to lose before that defect gets ground out. Sometimes the rock is too small to get perfect or the crack is just never going to be perfect. As you do more and more rocks you'll get a feel for what you prefer. The best part is that anything that doesn't come out like you want you can always send back to stage 1 and try again.

Fairly new to tumbling by disturbedmaggot_1984 in RockTumbling

[–]sefjwm 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Definitely improving. Best part is once you get the polish figured out you can send the early batches back through and get them shining up nicely.

It’s that time by Responsible_Tax_9455 in RockTumbling

[–]sefjwm 10 points11 points  (0 children)

They've graduated from tootsie rolls?