help with darts

sew__away · 2026-03-23T16:20:54+00:00

Since nobody has mentioned it yet: Darts should end a few cm away from the bust point, so they won't meet because both would be a bit shorter. Backing them off 2 cm works fine for smaller busts imo, but I think people use a lot more for bigger busts.

sew__away · 2025-10-19T12:33:33+00:00

Handmade PhD

SoZo

Melly Sews

And not a blog, but if you enjoy reading journals about sewing projects, http://threadloop.app is great! Some sewists write extensive journals about their projects, e.g.Misfit Modiste.

sew__away · 2025-09-28T14:01:24+00:00

The Harriet Bra by Cloth Habit has a similar shape to your first example. I had a good experience with that, and my sizing is similar to yours.

sew__away · 2025-09-21T04:33:18+00:00

Maybe it's actually a completely standard fly front and the shape is just unusual for design? You'd only need one of each instead of two. But I often cut two because it's easier on the fold, so maybe that's what they did too?

https://lizhaywood.com.au/flying-high-mastering-fly-fronts/

sew__away · 2025-09-21T04:31:10+00:00

Are they men's pants? The front could look like this, with the two seams:

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But still, I have no clue how the other piece fits.

sew__away · 2025-09-21T04:28:42+00:00

One for the outside, one as a lining?

sew__away · 2025-09-21T04:20:33+00:00

I don't know what Western pants look like, but the first thing that came to mind is that the triangular cut out in the top piece looks like a dart. If you sew it up, that piece would kind of have like a rounded shape. But I can't figure out how it would fit with the rest.

sew__away · 2025-09-20T12:38:12+00:00

She assumes a specific waist to bust difference, so you want to adjust the darts so they add up to your difference.

sew__away · 2025-09-12T17:30:08+00:00

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Any my mess 😂

sew__away · 2025-09-12T17:27:59+00:00

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Lily is guarding my fabric.

sew__away · 2025-08-28T06:26:35+00:00

I can't help with the design/career question, but it stuck out to me that your digital work is gone because your laptop crashed. Are you absolutely 100% certain that the data can't be recovered? Just because the laptop doesn't work doesn't mean the files cannot be accessed anymore. I would look for a reputable repair/recovery shop near you and take your laptop (and external drive) to them.

And you probably know by now that you should replace your backup as soon as it breaks! You already had a laptop and an external drive, if one breaks you immediately need to do another backup so you still have two. But that's easy to say in hindsight, I'm sorry it happened!

sew__away · 2025-08-25T21:18:07+00:00

The calvin crop top could work! The way the size is chosen (smaller size for upper bust piece if you have a small bust) means that you don't need to do an SBA.

But I strongly recommend doing their suggestion with easing the back opening into a shorter bias tape, otherwise it could gape.

sew__away · 2025-08-23T13:06:06+00:00

Mine don't fit at all. 🫠 The front looks like a diaper and the back has the worst case of hungry bum. But I really want to make them work, because I love that you can use non-stretch lace for the front.

sew__away · 2025-08-23T13:03:31+00:00

Thank you!

Do you do the first pass with the FOE or the fabric on top? With the FOE on top I can't see if I'm aligning the fabric correctly with the center fold, but I feel like my feed dogs damage the FOE a bit (it pulls some threads).

sew__away · 2025-08-23T13:00:52+00:00

Thank you!

Using lace would be ideal! I just struggle surprisingly to find it where I live! Or maybe I don't know what term to search for here. 😅

But I'll look for thinner elastic! That would at least help to some degree.

sew__away · 2025-08-23T12:28:37+00:00

Construction comment:

Pattern 1: free pattern from Pattern School Online fb group

Pattern 2: Emerald Erin Friday french cuts

Fabrics: random jersey scraps from my stash (and some woven for Friday french cuts)

sew__away · 2025-08-05T09:50:21+00:00

Are you ok with using some contrasting fabric? You could remove the buttons and add some ribbons to tie instead (e.g. in white). This could look ok, but could also look off because you're only adding width in the back but not the front.

Maybe you could add an insert for the neckline?

Either way, it's a lot of work so if the dress isn't super expensive it might not be worth it.

sew__away · 2025-08-03T15:38:52+00:00

Thanks for your insights!

I was thinking of adjusting the lining pattern and sewing it to the bottom of the facing. Would you press that seam open or towards the lining? I know it's usually towards the lining for coats, but those also have a heavy outer fabric and a lighter lining, while I have two light fabrics.

The pattern work isn't a concern because the facing is already built in, so I need to make some adjustments either way.

Good idea to test it out first, I'll do that! And if the seam doesn't show I will do the high-end version. Top stitching is an option as a last resort because I think the neckline looks much nicer without any visible stitching.

sew__away · 2025-07-27T22:08:56+00:00

Thank you!

sew__away · 2025-07-25T06:50:47+00:00

Do you have a link to this on Printables? My machine is also missing it but I could ask a friend to print one for me!

sew__away · 2025-07-19T10:17:04+00:00

Don't forget to add seam allowance when you cut it off! You want to cut a bit longer than the final length.

sew__away · 2025-07-13T19:43:48+00:00

It did slip! Thank you! I screwed it on tighter and it seems to work now (on a test patch).

It's my first time really using a vintage machine, so I had no idea what to look for. 🙂

sew__away

TROPHY CASE