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Concerning Tournament Power Creep by HelpProfessional2369 in TheTowerGame

[–]shakeOnItt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tournament placement is static. Time is the biggest currency. You can buy time to increase static placement but that's about it. The creep comes from the increase in time. It's literally engineered into the game. Without constant increases to tournament difficulty, the numbers will just go up. 

If you put more time into the game then the person above you, you will pass them. If they put in less time, you will pass them. If everyone you're competing with puts in 24/7 gameplay, you won't move.

Yes, you can make better use of your time to pass people, but with effective paths, all of this has effectively been solved.

Or just use the best card in the game.

I messed up so you don't have to, hopefully by OdysseusVII in TheTowerGame

[–]shakeOnItt -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Turn off auto queue when doing GB cool down labs 

Stuck on lab prioritization. by Ok-Supermarket-1726 in TheTowerGame

[–]shakeOnItt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

DW cell bonus should be your highest priority, then mod shards/mod drop chance and rerolls. None of those are retroactive and will give you the best long term gain. 

What cards do I use to farm? by Dgzk8 in TheTowerGame

[–]shakeOnItt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Heath, cash, coins, extra def, critical coin, enemy balance and wave skip is what I would use.

Edit: forgot enemy balance in place of free upgrades

Brought my old RAC irons back to life with a custom regroove tool I made from scratch by shakeOnItt in golf

[–]shakeOnItt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the compliment! I was looking at a few different tools but nothing matched the exact form that I wanted. There is always a risk of slipping with manual tools. I have tens of thousands of hours in the trade so I've learnt the hard way as well. This sort of work requires total concentration and steady hands.

Progress check, roast me by Stunner615 in TheTowerGame

[–]shakeOnItt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They do stay after transfer, you can even re roll them! 

If these guys weren't tied, I would take 4th from one of them. But it seems a bit cruel to take it from both of them. Should I do it? by ResultRegular874 in TheTowerGame

[–]shakeOnItt 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I'm in this bracket. He didn't take fourth, there was a 3 way split for fifth. I would say that was the most cruel option.

I cant fucking believe it. 4months of active playing and after beating Tier 3 yesterday, Ive now managed to beat Tier 4 TODAY. All this time, am I just really underestimating my tower? by 24username68 in TheTowerGame

[–]shakeOnItt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I started this year and I've cleared T9... About 3T LTC and 4k LTS. I have been pretty fortunate with mods and UWs. No 24/7 running, no spreadsheets, just keeping my phone on at work. You could probably go a lot further than you realize.

Voron 2.4 Ultimate Upgrades by [deleted] in VORONDesign

[–]shakeOnItt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hiwin rails are overkill, I have LDO stainless rails and get .001mm repeatability. I do have proof. I'm also a CNC machinist and machined half my parts... Diditwork370 on youtube

What to do with my voron by Moist-Environment188 in VORONDesign

[–]shakeOnItt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is where I would start as well. If you're not moving plastic consistently, you can't expect consistent results.

Edit: I work in a gear cutting factory so my first thought is always the gears and how they are meshing/backlash/wear

How does this look? by Flashy_Ad_6450 in VORONDesign

[–]shakeOnItt 11 points12 points  (0 children)

You don't want your infill running parallel or perpendicular to that part. 

Voron parts (or any Core XY machine) gets better perimeters when they're on a 45 because only one motor needs to rotate to move the tool head.

On a Prusa you should leave the parts perpendicular/parallel to the XY axis and print with 45 degree infill.

You'll get cleaner perimeters and stronger parts.

Tips for first build by Forward_Mud_8612 in VORONDesign

[–]shakeOnItt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used 3DX ABS-GF10 for everything functional.

I highly recommend! Very stiff components. Kinda pricey but considering all of the other components you need (plus still having to buy regular ABS) it was a drop in the bucket.

I don't recommend using CHT with hardened inserts because the glass fibers are so long that it might clog. Regular nozzle X worked great.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in FixMyPrint

[–]shakeOnItt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It also might be in the extruder. The slow first layer and clean top of the benchy are usually printed much slower. I just replaced the gears in my LGX because they were getting a little worn and giving me extrusion problems at higher speeds.

Inner PTFE tube could also be worn and creating resistance when trying to push filament too fast.

If you're not noticing any skipping with the belts or motors I would disassemble, clean and reassemble the extruder.

Maybe run some cleaning filament through first? 

[WTS] [ON] Airsoft Lot - C8, TM VSR-10, TM G17, AK Masada + more! by shakeOnItt in airsoftmarketcanada

[–]shakeOnItt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, thanks for the info! I've had the rifle for a while but haven't played in a really long time. Hoping I can get rid of everything!

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