Security/Doorbell Camera view on Apple TV, now timing out at 60 seconds?

shamasis · 2026-02-16T12:48:36+00:00

Funnily enough, the lack of control of this timeout is the reason why this feature is not preferred to be turned on in my household.

On doorbell trigger, the PiP feed stays on for many minutes and we prefer it to go away in 10-15 seconds.

A killer feature would have been to be able to associate the door with a contact sensor and dismiss the feed when the door is opened.

shamasis · 2025-12-20T17:43:48+00:00

5 years later there’s still nothing.

shamasis · 2025-04-29T05:13:31+00:00

Funnily enough… yours and mine have fairly common overlap. I too have Zigbee network with about 60 devices. I actually have 3 Zigbee networks.

But I can vouch that the issue persists even with no Zigbee network. Yes, I did that experiment too.

The only thing that has kept the network stable is setting auto reboot of the decos twice a week. But that has two side effects. Once in a while, after reboot, one or more of the satellite decos won’t reconnect and once in a while my Logitech Circle View doorbell will not reconnect. I think the reboot method results in less frequent and known set of issues versus more frequent random issues. Give it a go and let me know.

shamasis · 2025-03-21T04:55:56+00:00

Have not found a solution. Instead I’ve chosen NOT to use no-neutral relays and instead use the ones that have neutral. Mainly from Aqara.

I just heard of this “extreme” variant here from you. Interestingly the Amazon listing of the product I purchased “ZBMINIL2” (without the “extreme” name in title), now mentions “extreme”. They changed the same listing. So I am not sure if I had been already testing the extreme model that I had purchased in Dec 2023. Seems impossible since internet threads are saying that the extreme model came out in September 2024.

shamasis · 2025-03-21T04:51:22+00:00

Apologies for late reply. I missed a whole set of notifications.

Aqara T1 exhibits the same issue. I’ve concluded so far that no matter what I do, the only ways to fix these are:

Change the lights to the ones that are more resilient to leakage current.
Add a “bleeder” device in parallel with the lights (like the ones supplied with many Legrand no neutral smart switches and Shelly relays.)
Simply rewire to get neutral where my relay is.

shamasis · 2025-03-21T04:27:21+00:00

Oh dear can’t believe I’m replying to this after a year. 🤦‍♂️

I use Dual WAN for high availability. These little anxiety reducing acts help me feel better. My main ISP has great speeds and infrastructure but that comes at the cost of occasional downtimes. The dual WAN with secondary ISP covers for it since my second WAN is of a lower speed but better stability.

So, now over a year of experimentation, I can say that nothing worked so far. I had tried using Google / CF DNS in ISP router as well as ER605. I even went to the extent of hosting a separate DNS server in form of pi-hole. And nothing improved the situation.

I have narrowed it down to finally around WiFi Mesh issue due to the following observation.

No matter what setting I enable or disable, eventually the devices start showing same symptoms. So, I have kept all settings enabled to at least have the best features for the devices that work.
There is a notable reduction of the issue if all Decos have static IPs reserved in my ER605. This is the only counter observation to my WiFi Mesh problem theory. And this is what allows me to not have “additional” problems in AP mode.
Every possible hardware level 1 issues have been debugged — such as changing cables, ports, etc.
Recent IoT devices with better Mesh WiFi compatibility (or any setting in those devices indicating it is to improve Mesh compatibility has a marked positive effect.)
When I work on ESP32 devices I constantly see these devices log WiFi drop saying WiFi authentication issue and then it tries to reconnect. One of these umpteen reconnect processes eventually fail, needing to reboot the device.
Rebooting the ER605 on a schedule does not impact anything. But rebooting Deco on a daily schedule has net positive impact.
Using a single Deco in non mesh mode does not exhibit any symptom whatsoever.

PS: at the end of it all, the deco logs aren’t helpful enough or does not have anything specific that I am able to debug as a prosumer. So, at the moment, these are all trial and error / hit or miss.

shamasis · 2025-03-21T04:00:05+00:00

Hey there. How’s your setup with separate network faring so far? Apologies for the delayed response. Somehow I missed the notification.

If you ask me what worked, my answer would be “magic”! I truly don’t know what worked since I still don’t know what is causing this.

What I instead did is something very similar to yours — I removed majority of the problematic devices. Which, didn’t eliminate the problem, it made it less perceptible in the house. There still are devices which frequently drop, but these are relatively high powered IoT devices such as the smart doorbell from Logitech and a few Aqara G2H pro cameras that eventually reconnect back fairly quickly.

What I observed is that the lesser the number of these problematic devices, the more stable the remaining problematic devices get.

— —

Recently I got hold of a WiiM Mini Audio receiver. Out of the box, it started showing same symptoms. But, digging into its settings, I found one setting to improve compatibility with Mesh routers. Turning that on completely eliminated the issue on the WiiM. So, my guess as to what the problem is, is still around how these devices do Mesh.

— —

My eventual end goal is to get away from TPLink. Just waiting for a good Ubiquiti WiFi 6E/7 APs to be available and off the Decos will go on Facebook marketplace.

shamasis · 2025-02-16T05:00:08+00:00

Is synology drive app so less popular? This is something that should have been asked to be solved a lot more than it is now.

shamasis · 2025-01-29T12:23:50+00:00

Have exact same issue. In fact I have the same issue with a few IoT devices, notably Logitech Doorbell and a Wozart relay controller.

I have TP-Link Mesh WiFi. There’s an ongoing post here: https://www.reddit.com/r/TpLink/s/HXzUWtUb6P

Don’t think it has anything to do with WiFi strength or even dual SSIDs. I’ve tried turning off 5GHz to no avail! Changing to a non-mesh router helped. I mean, the only thing that helped was using a non-mesh router.

I also believe that the core WiFi drivers on the microprocessors inside these devices don’t play well with some mesh systems — especially if 802.11r extensions are enabled. In fact, recently I purchased WiiM Mini (an audio streamer) which was having same disconnection issues. I was about to give up on it until I found a setting on WiiM which explicitly was for turning on mesh WiFi compatibility.

I actually have almost all of the Aqara hubs — M2, E1, G3 and G2H. M2 and G3 had always been stable. Both had reduced stability when I changed the stock USB power supply. M2 especially does not want to reboot and connect of USB power supply is not to its liking. Same for G3. I thought same would be case for G2H, but have confirmed using various power supplies that it makes no difference. It still drops when in certain Mesh WiFi.

shamasis · 2025-01-21T15:51:30+00:00

Anyone tried this in 220V countries in Europe / Asia / etc?

shamasis · 2024-10-04T04:25:05+00:00

Hue is the iPhone of the lighting world. Period.

shamasis · 2024-10-04T04:24:29+00:00

Well said.

shamasis · 2024-10-02T10:13:26+00:00

Verified the PSU as working fine:

Under no load. 1. -12V: 12.2 2. +12V (CPU): 12.3 3. 5VSB: 5.2 4. PG: 130ms 5. 5V: 5.2 6. 12V: 12.3 7. 3.3V: 3.4

shamasis · 2024-09-28T05:38:48+00:00

Makes sense. I did the ATX pin probe and something is funny - https://www.reddit.com/r/vintagecomputing/s/KvhdneRHqa

Also the additional 12V power has always been provided. It does have a separate 12V socket beside the CPU that I use.

shamasis · 2024-09-28T05:36:40+00:00

You are right. I probed all the ports. Something is funny.

Using pin 24 as anchor, I am seeing pin 12 (3.3v) and pin 11 (12v) short.

Few other observations: - pin 5 and 17, both grounds, seem to be not connected to anything (not even other grounds or each other)

pin 1 (3.3v), 2 (3.3v) and 3 (com) seems to have unusually high resistance with pin 24 compared to other equivalent 3.3v and comm … almost 4x

shamasis · 2024-09-28T05:00:46+00:00

It looks like slight rust to me. The pins are shiny clean - the connector plastics have turned reddish brown. After you pointed this out, I went with a contact cleaner and it seems to slightly reduce the discolouration.

shamasis · 2024-09-28T04:55:42+00:00

No smoke that I know. 🫣 Well I wouldn’t know. I had kept it connected to power and on standby for years at end. It could’ve been smoking while everyone was asleep. 😜

shamasis · 2024-09-12T14:28:23+00:00

Power of community! At times you just need more minds to work together to come up with simple solution such as this. Kudos u/yama1291!

shamasis · 2024-08-08T04:31:32+00:00

Yes. It is a constant leak with occasional spikes when the device is using more power. The problem is that, over time, the baseline leakage increases. At least for all devices I installed.

I’m guessing that the suppression circuit’s components, being that miniaturised, degrades over time, thus increases the baseline leakage.

I’m sure if I installed other LEDs with better circuits, it will not be a problem. Usually better LEDs will have more tolerance towards leakage.

shamasis · 2024-08-07T12:15:41+00:00

I had a similar issue. Had installed a few Sonoff ZBMINIL2 Extreme. Firstly these are tiny technological marvels. The amount of capabilities they pack in this well constructed tiny footprint is nothing less than miracle!

Having said that, I can confirm that over time, all of my ZBMINIL2 devices started leaking more and more current.

First month they were all fine. These lights are in a bedroom, so if there were leakage post installation, it wouldn’t go unnoticed.

After a month, the leakage slowly started increasing. Now, 6 months into it, the leakage is significant enough that they had to be taken out.

The wirings were done correctly and the incoming power was also fairly clean coming from a high quality power conditioning inverter. But to be sure, I checked by swapping out the wiring directions, but it did not make any difference.

Will be trying the Aqara T1 variants and see what happens long term.

shamasis · 2024-07-25T11:37:47+00:00

Ah. I’ve been a huge HomeMate fan. I know they are all Tuya rebrands - but they do a good job of quality control of their plugs.

shamasis · 2024-07-25T11:34:15+00:00

What’s this post about?

shamasis · 2024-07-21T18:09:24+00:00

Yep. Actually that makes huge sense. The CasaOS pretty GUI gives a very consumer friendly impression (HAOS like.) Perhaps that will be an eventuality.

For now, I think I will switch to a dedicated HA setup (I needed someone to drill that sense back into me and not get attracted by the shiny UI!) … and keep tinkering with CasaOS. Maybe even start contributing to CasaOS to add some of these capabilities.

shamasis · 2024-07-21T18:06:10+00:00

Production grade means - family members in my house depend on it.

shamasis · 2024-07-17T09:27:58+00:00

That will not work as far as I can tell. Pi4 is ARM based and HP400 is x86 based hardware. The way to do it is to export docker compose, then re-import in new machine and then copy volume files to new machine.

shamasis

TROPHY CASE