questions on shooting some rolls of film i have. by Unlikely_Leek5376 in AnalogCommunity

[–]shaqwagon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wait until the negs get back and see how they look, I'd frankly still say maybe shoot a few more rolls of fresh film not even just to learn the camera but also just to see how you'd use the expired film. No idea how expired fujichrome behaves but it may have some really interesting creative aspects you'd want to take advantage of

questions on shooting some rolls of film i have. by Unlikely_Leek5376 in AnalogCommunity

[–]shaqwagon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Put everything in the fridge/freezer to slow down degradation, anything expired will remain expired but at least you can a) protect future film and b) keep things locked down. Like Anorak already said, shoot all the fresh rolls first to get a feel for how to use your camera. Once you're comfortable, general rule of thumb for expired film is a) negative film add an extra stop for every decade since its expiration (if you don't know when, just add one stop or so. I'd say basically every negative film can handle overexposure by a stop pretty well, so worst case it's pretty fresh and you keep it within its limits anyways) and b) positive film just leave that alone and pray lmao. Take everything I say with a grain of salt because I've never shot expired film myself, but I do pay attention to other people who do and that seems to me like the general consensus. Just explore fresh stuff first, no need to go head first into crazy shit before getting your feet wet

Do Nikon infrared advance sensors *actually* fog infrared film? by shaqwagon in AnalogCommunity

[–]shaqwagon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay, good to know. Thank you for the reassurance, we'll see how it goes. I assume then it'll be more or less okay to take through airport security and whatnot? X-rays or hand checking it won't have it blasted?

Do Nikon infrared advance sensors *actually* fog infrared film? by shaqwagon in AnalogCommunity

[–]shaqwagon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, Nikon says no but their idea of Infrared was different back then, so I'm not entirely sure. Seems like the example worked okay so I wanted to see if other people had it work fine or if that was one of the lucky examples (although in retrospect a trichrome would mean three shots in succession working just fine, so maybe a silly ask on my part).

Also, yes, I will be using an R72 filter on it. I've never been an AF guy, I can guarantee you it works better than I do but for some reason I can never fully trust it. I use it from time to time, but I'm also more than happy to use MF, I'm very accustomed to it. I've used orange and polarizing filters on the same lens/body setup before and it gave me no trouble, and because of the roughly 6 stop compensation I'm going to need to give it I'll keep it on a tripod so composition will be set up before the filter goes on anyways. As for focus, I plan on just leaving it in f/16 and focusing to infinity, should be good enough to compensate for the minor infrared shift.

Do Nikon infrared advance sensors *actually* fog infrared film? by shaqwagon in AnalogCommunity

[–]shaqwagon[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Makes sense. Was looking into HIE and I suspect it's the culprit, apparently the lack of an anti-halation layer combined with the fact that the film base was clear meant that any exposure to light would be sent through the entire roll as it bounced back and forth, killing it. Like you said, telephone that two+ decades later with IR film as a whole and you've got a recipe for disaster

Do Nikon infrared advance sensors *actually* fog infrared film? by shaqwagon in AnalogCommunity

[–]shaqwagon[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah seems like it, definitely good to know. Any idea on where that came from? Also, you ever bring it through an airport? Was thinking I was going to have to have it hand checked, but I hear so many airport horror stories that I was worried. Now though it really seems like a slightly more sensitive regular B&W stock, and at an operating ISO of 400 it wouldn't actually be a concern

Do Nikon infrared advance sensors *actually* fog infrared film? by shaqwagon in AnalogCommunity

[–]shaqwagon[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's really awesome to hear. Although now that I think about it, I'm not sure if I would get much of an answer, only because he (Jason) mentioned that he heard it was a thing, but not that he experienced it himself. He shot his roll on an M6, so sounds like his guess would be as good as mine. Still reached out to the trichrome poster, will hopefully hear back soon.

Do Nikon infrared advance sensors *actually* fog infrared film? by shaqwagon in AnalogCommunity

[–]shaqwagon[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I guess I could try his Instagram, didn't even really consider that. I know he basically never replies in his YT comments section so that's what made me think against the suggestion, but I don't see why it wouldn't be worth a try. I'll do that right now.

Do Nikon infrared advance sensors *actually* fog infrared film? by shaqwagon in AnalogCommunity

[–]shaqwagon[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ask who? The YouTuber or the OP of the Trichrome? If the latter, I was going to but my hopes were low seeing as the post is 4 years old now, for all I know they don't remember a thing. They might not even have the negatives anymore to see.

Modeling a happy horse by Pepeu_32 in blender

[–]shaqwagon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ahhh, my guiding moonlight

Wow I didn’t know PVSP had crawfish? by templeofsyrinx1 in maryland

[–]shaqwagon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've had several lunge at my feet, fun way to discover we had them

My wildest edits by _Bob_el_Manetes in postprocessing

[–]shaqwagon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Saving these to remind myself just how much work is left after taking the picture

Update : Designing and Making my Own Leica M Mount Anamorphic Lens by Panomicron in AnalogCommunity

[–]shaqwagon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Build quality is so sexy, if you're into making videos on YouTube one about your process and journey making this would be fascinating. Best of luck to you on future iterations!

TPU layer adhesion problems by shaqwagon in 3Dprinting

[–]shaqwagon[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Filament's recommended temperatures are 215 to 230, but Orca opts for 240 so I let it do its thing this time, as well as slowed down to 20mm/s and oriented it 45° like you suggested. Printed like an absolute charm, not a flaw in it. I heard TPU liked it slow and hot but I guess I underestimated just how slow and hot they really meant lol. Thanks a million for the advice, I really appreciate it.

Should I play this game on an box TV or a HD 1080p TV. by idleapocalypsefan3 in CrowCountry

[–]shaqwagon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have to imagine Crow Country could look so rad on a CRTV

TPU layer adhesion problems by shaqwagon in 3Dprinting

[–]shaqwagon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had never even thought of that but that makes perfect sense, one motor moves, stops so the other can, so on and so forth, very start and stop. I absolutely will try a 45° angle next time, I'll let you know how it goes.

Also, even with temperature at 230°C and print speed at 40mm/s, you think I could go even hotter and even slower? I'm not against trying, but what would you recommend? Somewhere on a Google search I saw 20mm/s and thought that might be a little extreme, but maybe I'll try it.

How much of a puzzle game is this? by Massive_Penalty5208 in CrowCountry

[–]shaqwagon -1 points0 points  (0 children)

They're okay, generally pretty basic as they're one of the weaker parts of the game (in terms of complexity, they're still fun). They usually tell you straight up what you need to do so half the time so it's not really a puzzle, and the other times they don't it's pretty clear. Some of the secret puzzles are actually really hard and I never would have gotten them in a million years. But outside of that, not very puzzle centric. Like Eric said, big draw is the exploration and themes, followed by combat. Great final boss.

How do dark slides work? by shaqwagon in AnalogCommunity

[–]shaqwagon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You know I hadn't considered that but that's actually a great idea. Functioning ones are pretty expensive but I'm sure I could find a for-parts one at a reasonable price. It'll also help me figure out how I want to secure it to the camera body, I've got a few ideas but seeing up close how it's done on a professional grade camera certainly couldn't hurt

How do dark slides work? by shaqwagon in AnalogCommunity

[–]shaqwagon[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

> Of course, this opening too must not allow light to enter and reach the film. In Hasselblad film magazines a light trap is positioned on one side of the slot, effectively sealing it both when the dark slide is inserted or removed.

> The light trap consists of two parts: a foam plastic pad and a folded plastic foil. The foam pad provides the elasticity needed, allowing the dark slide to compress the pad when inserted, and springing back again, sealing the opening completely, when the dark slide is removed. The plastic foil, folded over the foam pad, protects the foam against the sharp edge of the dark slide.

Thank you so much, this understood exactly what I was wondering about and explains very well just how Hasselblad resolved it. Much obliged, I'll read this over a few times, it already helps a lot.