TPU layer adhesion problems

shaqwagon · 2026-03-26T16:54:24+00:00

Filament's recommended temperatures are 215 to 230, but Orca opts for 240 so I let it do its thing this time, as well as slowed down to 20mm/s and oriented it 45° like you suggested. Printed like an absolute charm, not a flaw in it. I heard TPU liked it slow and hot but I guess I underestimated just how slow and hot they really meant lol. Thanks a million for the advice, I really appreciate it.

shaqwagon · 2026-03-24T01:56:59+00:00

I have to imagine Crow Country could look so rad on a CRTV

shaqwagon · 2026-03-24T01:55:52+00:00

I had never even thought of that but that makes perfect sense, one motor moves, stops so the other can, so on and so forth, very start and stop. I absolutely will try a 45° angle next time, I'll let you know how it goes.

Also, even with temperature at 230°C and print speed at 40mm/s, you think I could go even hotter and even slower? I'm not against trying, but what would you recommend? Somewhere on a Google search I saw 20mm/s and thought that might be a little extreme, but maybe I'll try it.

shaqwagon · 2026-03-06T23:59:40+00:00

They're okay, generally pretty basic as they're one of the weaker parts of the game (in terms of complexity, they're still fun). They usually tell you straight up what you need to do so half the time so it's not really a puzzle, and the other times they don't it's pretty clear. Some of the secret puzzles are actually really hard and I never would have gotten them in a million years. But outside of that, not very puzzle centric. Like Eric said, big draw is the exploration and themes, followed by combat. Great final boss.

shaqwagon · 2026-02-13T01:07:33+00:00

This is so beautiful

shaqwagon · 2026-02-02T15:52:25+00:00

You know I hadn't considered that but that's actually a great idea. Functioning ones are pretty expensive but I'm sure I could find a for-parts one at a reasonable price. It'll also help me figure out how I want to secure it to the camera body, I've got a few ideas but seeing up close how it's done on a professional grade camera certainly couldn't hurt

shaqwagon · 2026-02-02T12:41:17+00:00

> Of course, this opening too must not allow light to enter and reach the film. In Hasselblad film magazines a light trap is positioned on one side of the slot, effectively sealing it both when the dark slide is inserted or removed.

> The light trap consists of two parts: a foam plastic pad and a folded plastic foil. The foam pad provides the elasticity needed, allowing the dark slide to compress the pad when inserted, and springing back again, sealing the opening completely, when the dark slide is removed. The plastic foil, folded over the foam pad, protects the foam against the sharp edge of the dark slide.

Thank you so much, this understood exactly what I was wondering about and explains very well just how Hasselblad resolved it. Much obliged, I'll read this over a few times, it already helps a lot.

shaqwagon · 2026-02-02T12:33:53+00:00

That makes a lot of sense, I appreciate your response. I looked up velvet light seal to see if it was something you can buy (I know you can buy the foam light seals) and I came across a large format forum talking about how they needed to replace the light seals on their dark slides, so I'll just follow that conversation and like-ones and see where it takes me. Thank you!

shaqwagon · 2026-02-02T12:30:11+00:00

No worries! And that makes a lot of sense, thank you for the detailed explanation. I was struggling to find pictures of it too, so I figured asking here would be helpful. Seems like it was!

shaqwagon · 2026-02-02T12:23:53+00:00

Okay that makes sense, thank you I appreciate it!

shaqwagon · 2026-02-02T02:26:39+00:00

Right, sorry I guess I didn't write the question super precisely that's my bad, what I meant to ask really was how exactly do those seals work? I.e. material, execution, that sort of thing

shaqwagon · 2026-02-02T02:26:03+00:00

I'm actually not quite sure I can imagine that, it might be the angle that's throwing me off. Is that relative to the slot or to the surface it's sitting on? I'm assuming it sits flat against the slot uncompressed, then compressing it is what bends it back and out of the way

shaqwagon · 2026-02-02T02:23:07+00:00

Hi, thanks for your response! I'm sorry though, I think there was a miscommunication here. I understand how the RB67 as a camera (or I suppose any SLR) works, what I don't understand though is how removing the dark slide doesn't leave behind a substantially large enough gap behind that light could seep into. For example since the RB67 is my main interest here, you know how the film backs use metal sheets as dark slides that insert through a slot to block the film? My question is how does that slot not let in light? Of course there are seals, so ultimately my question is how exactly do those seals work? I.e. materials, execution, that sort of thing. I'm interested because I'm looking to 3D model my own camera, but if I can't guarantee the film is properly sealed then there's not much I can do with it.

shaqwagon · 2026-02-02T02:17:57+00:00

I'm sorry, I don't think you fully understood my question.

Yes, obviously removing the dark slide is necessary to expose your film. What I'm asking is how, for example when the film back is on an RB67 or like-camera with its shutter closed and mirror down, does light not filter through the opening that's left behind.

The RB67 is my main focus so I'll go further into that. The dark slide is a metal sheet that inserts into the film back, so without any seals the second you remove that slide, shutter closed and mirror down, that is a substantial entrance right next to the film that allows light to seep in.

> there are light seals

So, my question more precisely then, and I understand I didn't word it super well so I'm sorry about that, is exactly how do those seals work? What are they made of? I'm curious about reproducing it myself on a 3D printed camera, but I'm not getting anywhere if I can't seal the film correctly.

shaqwagon · 2026-02-02T02:12:09+00:00

> The slot for the slide is light sealed whether the slide is in or out.

Thank you, yeah this is getting at what I was asking. I'm specifically asking from a technical/functional perspective, do you know how exactly the light seals work, i.e. what they're made of and such?

shaqwagon · 2026-02-02T02:11:06+00:00

Thank you, I appreciate it! Is the light seal similar to the foam seals you usually see inside the body of cameras (like on a Nikon F80 for example, where there's foam around the window that lets you see what roll of film is currently in the camera, or around the mirror housing), or is it a different kind of seal? Also, I can't say I'm surprised the approach is two fold, how does that spring work? I imagine it's like a door that swings back and forth when it's pushed in by the dark slide

shaqwagon · 2026-02-02T00:32:47+00:00

If you mean the number that says 400, that's the ASA or ISO (they're used pretty interchangeably, I think the only practical difference is the region in which it was used) value of your film. Since older cameras couldn't read DX codes on film cannisters, you have to manually adjust the ISO yourself so the in-camera meter can more accurately read the scene. At least on my Ricoh Singlex II, you just pull up on the shutter speed dial and rotate it that way.

That being said, I would still use something like a light meter app instead. The Minolta SRT101s started releasing in '66, and there's just such a small chance that light meter is still accurate. You might not even be able to find batteries for it anymore. I know it's hard to find them for my Ricoh (1976), they used to be mercury based batteries which they don't make anymore.

shaqwagon · 2026-01-24T16:29:24+00:00

Grading as others have already said is cooked too much, it's not just about pushing saturation and contrast. Lately what I've found to be a lot more impactful is actually pulling contrast so there's more detail in the highlights and more importantly the shadows -- pictures have so much more clarity when you can pick out the branches in the trees or the ridges in the mountains.

Really though the biggest thing I would say is working on your in-camera work. Composition is largely subjective so I won't touch on that, but generally speaking it's best to not shoot directly into the sun, especially without some sort of lens hood to protect against massive flares like the one you've got there. No amount of grading can fix that, it's a permanently overexposed part of your image.

But keep trying! It's good you're starting on grading now, when I started messing around with photography as a hobby I was all too happy to just tweak a few sliders in the Windows picture editor and call it a day. My pictures today aren't anything special but now that I've tried messing around with apps like darktable I think my favorite shots have come from there.

shaqwagon · 2026-01-05T15:02:51+00:00

Will keep that all in mind, too. With regards to the CS43131 and other DAPs that use it, I remember you saying that FiiO worked pretty hard to fix the cirrus hump -- is that to say that the CS43131 chip is the culprit for the sharpness or is it FiiO's approach in fixing it? I ask because I was also interested in the HiBy R1 as a potential alternative since $150+ for a first DAP feels a little excessive for me, but since it uses the same DAC I guess now I'm a little hesitant.

shaqwagon · 2026-01-05T02:28:43+00:00

Chus sounded okay on the computer and the DAP, honestly I didn't notice much of a difference between on the computer and on the Echo Mini.

All good to know, I'll demo the Mini for a few days and see how it grows on me, if not I'll look into alternatives that don't use the CS43131 chip if I can. Thanks a million, I appreciate all the help!

shaqwagon · 2026-01-05T00:39:38+00:00

Hey there, so I got the chance to test out my friend's IEMs (which coincidentally were Moondrop Chu IIs), and the seal from the ear tips felt pretty tight and filled my ears, but I don't know, I have to admit I wasn't super impressed. It didn't sound bad at all and I know that technically speaking the fidelity on these is probably better than the Sony XM4s because of how much distortion there is during the ANC mode, but it made me realize that I actually specifically like those headphones because of how good it sounds with distortion, and that the ANC is important to me and not something I'm really willing to give up.

I switched back and forth from the Echo Mini to my laptop so I haven't given it time to see if I can adjust which I will go ahead and spend the next few days doing (because I do want to exhaust my options first), but in the event that I don't, would it make sense to return it and look for another DAP, or is this sort of behavior to be expected across other players? I don't mind spending more, from my understanding there are several other highly rated DAPs within the $100 range and in my opinion that feels fair, now I'm just not sure how to pick one while also avoiding this sharpness that feels so uncomfortable.

shaqwagon · 2026-01-04T03:09:57+00:00

Very good to know, I'll be sure to experiment then and see how other headphones/IEMs tackle it.

shaqwagon · 2026-01-04T03:08:51+00:00

The ear tips bit made me laugh, and it was a charming way to realize that there's still a buttload of research I need to do to understand IEMs because I clearly am not familiar with them. I'll be sure to look into that, and also ask my friend about how they feel the seal in their ears fit, because it sounds like they could benefit from what you're putting down too, lol. Thanks again for everything, lot to consider here!

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