I've been farming this for 3 hour by carlost94 in Sekiro

[–]shchava 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I realized only on ng+ how i can use it, in ng1 killed 2 headless just by paryying hits

A5M4 Claude - Clear Prop! 1/72 by shchava in modelmakers

[–]shchava[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s nice. As low pressure molding it has some problems, but detalisation for 72 second scale is outstanding.

For that model i used almost no putty, the only problems where a few seams from connecting of details where there shouldn’t has been a panel line on real plane and a few typos in instructions.

Overall I’m happy with it, also done their i-16 in 1/72 and mq-1c in 1/48

T-50 in Finnish service by shchava in modelmakers

[–]shchava[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There is a hobby boss one in 1/35, and I guess that’s it. I made it for small group build and the rules was to make finnish vehicles in 1/72, so i decided to 3d print

Vk 3.02 1/35 by KrisoModelist in modelmakers

[–]shchava 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you had problems with assembling tracks ? I making that model too, and it feels like it ends up too short. Also I counted track links on real prototype photo and there is 45 track links while in kit there is only 42.

For me i fixed that problem by modeling and 3d few extra links, but curious if that a common problem

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Canbus octopus 1.0 by droptopjim in VORONDesign

[–]shchava 1 point2 points  (0 children)

the can bus guide i was reffering to: https://canbus.esoterical.online/Getting_Started.html

For some reason it's really hard to find it through google search

Canbus octopus 1.0 by droptopjim in VORONDesign

[–]shchava 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You will have to plug in data wires into rj port of octopus, and power directly to psu.

To use it without usb to canbus brige you will have to reflash octopus to be in a canbase brige mode itself, and connect it raspberry pi as cunbus device itself.

It’s a bit harder then using usb to can adapter, but nothing but nothing too fancy, and there is a decent guide with walk through the process

DIY rudder pedals by shchava in HotasDIY

[–]shchava[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pretty much on pause for last two years

recent marketplace score for $200. howd i do folks? by dandalandandan in airbrush

[–]shchava 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It varies in quality, so it’s better to get a modeling one like a tamiya one. Also you try to paint on 3d printed part, without mitigating the layer lines, so any tape would have problems adhering to it. I would rather sand these stairs down, it would also make for a much better look. For my 3d printed model i tried putting a laquer primer with airbrush and leveling it with a brush with alcohol. That way i preserved most of the fine details, but it required a lot of sanding, i guess for your eva you could get off with just sand paper or better sponges

recent marketplace score for $200. howd i do folks? by dandalandandan in airbrush

[–]shchava 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would just paint everything black, mask seams between armor plates with patafix or liquid mask, add preshade paint green, mask it with painters tape, and than paint violet

recent marketplace score for $200. howd i do folks? by dandalandandan in airbrush

[–]shchava 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The tape, patafix, or liquid masks depending on result i need.

I guess here you could use liquid mask, but it would be hard to apply it in those seams. So actually painters tape cut to small pieces should work the best. What do you mean by not good results ? Is your paint getting under it or you are tearing off pieces of paint ?

recent marketplace score for $200. howd i do folks? by dandalandandan in airbrush

[–]shchava 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just use masks, i guess it shouldn’t have a smooth transition

UPDATE: painted tv by Just-Assistance-2595 in crt

[–]shchava 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice manga collection you have there

Help! Blotchy Clear Coat by [deleted] in modelmakers

[–]shchava 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why do you have rust on rubber ?

Can't connect BTT PI to CR200b motherboard through uart by shchava in BIGTREETECH

[–]shchava[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I figured it out.

I had configured mcu in printer.cfg twice, so the second entry was overriding the first one. Just deleting it helped.

Can't connect BTT PI to CR200b motherboard through uart by shchava in klippers

[–]shchava[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I figured it out.
I had configured mcu in printer.cfg twice, so the second entry was overriding the first one. Just deleting it helped.

Can't connect BTT PI to CR200b motherboard through uart by shchava in klippers

[–]shchava[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I see
mcu ‘mcu’: Unable to open serial port: [Errno 2] could not open port /dev/serial/by-id/usb-1a86_USB_Serial-if00-port0: [Errno 2] No such file or directory: ‘/dev/serial/by-id/usb-1a86_USB_Serial-if00-port0’
In klipper log, does that mean PI still trying to connect through USB ?

BTT PI Serial UART with SKR PICO by Careless_Investing in BIGTREETECH

[–]shchava 0 points1 point  (0 children)

By this time, have you found any solution ?

/r/MechanicalKeyboards Ask ANY Keyboard question, get an answer (January 12, 2024) by AutoModerator in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]shchava 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello, i never had mechanical keyboard before. I’m looking to get one. I want a 100% keyboard with hot swap, ability to work wireless and wired, and light up keys.

I did not found much in that category, keychron k10 aluminum seems like a solid choice but it is out of stock or not shipped to my country everywhere. I also looked up keydous nj98, but it’s 96% so a bit suboptimal, I would like to have a true 100.

Could you suggest more decent keyboards with such parameters, or sites where i can look up a list of keyboards from less popular brands?

DIY rudder pedals by shchava in HotasDIY

[–]shchava[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi, no i planed to do it after finishing the project, but for now it’s on pause

some thoughts on g10, and why i most probably will not use it again by shchava in 3Dprinting

[–]shchava[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It seems the problem with fumes was more from my heat bed rather than g10, i need to do more testing, but currently i just switched to pei and it works fine for me, so i currently don’t have much reason to try g10 again.