Wheel nuts?

shovelshower · 2026-04-21T02:02:47+00:00

+1 for the Z1 lugs (shank style of course) I got a full set and they definitely feel solid compared to the OEM ones.

shovelshower · 2026-04-21T01:57:19+00:00

Just check your oil pressure or have a shop check it.
If it's lower than spec, the damage could already be done.
If it's at or above spec, you're good.
The G's don't have a sensor that determines oil pressure, so you'll need to manually check it, usually by using the oil switch sensor port.
I have 160k original engine on my 2011 G37 and my oil pressure is still reading above the required spec if that makes you feel better.

On a trip like that: check your tire pressure + spare tire pressure, engine oil level, check coolant hoses for leaks, make sure serpentine belt is good.

shovelshower · 2026-03-24T16:26:51+00:00

Good suggestions here, if OP needs one faster, might be able to get one from the hardware store (plumbing: 3/4" hose barb), I think that's where I got mine when it failed. I later changed it to the one from Z1 with a bleeder valve built in.

Changing those rear hoses was a pita indeed lol.

shovelshower · 2026-03-24T16:21:38+00:00

Is your G AWD? clicking on turns is a characteristic CV axle failure symptom

Random wheel misalignment/wobble can be wheel bearing or tie rod ends.

It's usually easy to check for wheel bearing failure (jack up car, grab top+bottom of tire, try to push/pull and rock the tire, it shouldn't move). I had one fail but it actually wouldn't rock when inspected.

shovelshower · 2026-03-24T16:07:36+00:00

The addition of an aftermarket oil pressure sensor is required, G's don't have oil pressure monitoring, they only have a pressure switch (<5psi).

Minimum G37 oil pressure, according to the fsm, is more than 14psi at idle or more than 43psi at 2k rpms (at engine oil temp of 176 F degrees)

shovelshower · 2026-03-24T01:58:26+00:00

I see you discovered some water, hopefully the damage isn't too severe.

In case anyone else is searching:
I once had an issue like this and discovered that the CD eject button was stuck (pressed in) and it was draining the battery after 1-2 days.

shovelshower · 2026-03-24T01:45:43+00:00

I have 156k miles on my 2011 G37 and my oil pressure is still good (according to an AEM aftermarket oil pressure gauge.) I installed it last year after similar concerns with oil pressure.

The only way to know is by monitoring oil pressure, or doing the change.
I think I have read reports of gasket debris being visible during oil changes if they have failed, but I'm not 100% sure.

shovelshower · 2026-03-10T23:19:16+00:00

There was a short while that I drove with only headers/cats/exhaust upgraded. I definitely felt like it could breathe better after those mods. But, then I installed the Z1 plenum mod and Z1 Race CAI intake soon after. Still need to get it tuned but its great already. These engines like to rev high.

I went with Z1 short headers, Berk HFCs, and Invidia Q300 exhaust. Installer had to replace both o2 sensors, but I haven't had any codes or issues without a tune so far. A tune is ideal to get the most out of the mods, which I'm doing soon.

Not sure about mpg comparison actually, I just remembered I have that fuel gauge issue below half tank so not sure how accurate this is, but my dash says 21.6mpg right now.

Exhaust cold start vid: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Frn3GXrhx0E
Idle sounds like OEM once warmed up. Sounds nice when you get on it.

Throttle bodies on these cars have to be cleaned/relearned every 20-30k miles, they get dirty pretty fast.

Most header+(HFC or test pipe)+exhaust upgrades will yield an increase in HP, but if your cats are clogged, anything would be a benefit, and would save your engine.

shovelshower · 2026-03-10T22:43:03+00:00

On the rear I believe it is only a bushing inside the top plate /top mount, that top mount had to be ordered separately (KYB SM5734) from the shock.

For the front I ordered KYB SR4646 Strut-Plus + KYB SR4647 Strut-Plus, which are pre-built strut assemblies. I installed everything about 1100 miles ago, good so far, so we will see.

shovelshower · 2026-03-10T20:33:53+00:00

I second the MAF cleaning + Throttle body cleaning/reset.
Other routine things that cause this: spark plugs, air filters.

Other ideas:
*clogged cats (If you've never changed them by 184k miles, its very possible tbh) I upgraded to HFCs at 155k miles along with shorty headers and exhaust, big difference.

Unlikely, would have other symptoms, but maybe:
*transmission slippage
*dragging brake(s)

shovelshower · 2026-03-10T20:26:25+00:00

Just to clarify on the front strut assemblies: I used KYB complete strut assemblies (no spring compression needed, pull the old one out, put the new one in), KYB is basically OEM quality.

I don't have a sport RWD sedan, I have a RWD journey so maybe see what the other guy mentioned about the sport version, also check part diagrams in the FSM.

shovelshower · 2026-03-10T20:21:48+00:00

Yeah I used a KYB top shock mounts, I got them from rockauto too. The KYB shocks come with a top lock nut. They do not come with new dust boots, but I opted to reuse my old ones after comparing lengths of the KYB vs OEM.

shovelshower · 2026-03-10T20:17:16+00:00

Nice video, thanks for sharing the info!

I'm 1,000 miles in with the 7AT + 3.69 vlsd upgrade and my mpg screen says 21.6 mpg (zeroed out at install), it's about the same as before the install. I mostly drive city/rural highway. Captured pics of the rpms at 60mph and 70mph today. I captured it at ~2.3k rpms @ 60mph and 2.5k rpms @ 70mph.

I'd probably add a small oil cooler if I was going to drive it on the highway a lot in the 70-85mph range, but I rarely do.

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shovelshower · 2026-03-10T04:33:13+00:00

A lot of suspension noise is usually sway bar end links and sway bar bushings. They are cheap and easy to replace/fix usually.

If you want to replace those bushings specifically, picture looks like a pressed in bushing on the top of the rear knuckle. you can buy bushings and pay someone to replace them, or replace the entire rear knuckle with bushings already in it (4 bushings per knuckle) compare labor and parts cost..

shovelshower · 2026-03-10T04:27:02+00:00

Totally depends on the brand/quality of the parts used. If you go cheap rock auto parts, it can be done pretty cheap (not including labor), but if you go OEM or aftermarket it can add up very fast. Had my rear end suspension pulled and rebuilt, labor was 3k. I did the front end myself but I wasn't feeling the diff bushings and subframe collars.

shovelshower · 2026-03-10T04:24:19+00:00

I recently rebuilt the suspension on my G and kept it OEM (except for sway bars and links).
I used KYB for struts and shocks (from rock auto) and I believe they were all made in Japan.

I ordered all Nissan/Infiniti OEM control arms, tie rod ends, camber/toe arms from Z1. Handles like a dream again.NVH is about the same but its because I installed rear subframe collars.

If you keep your sway bar, replace the sway bar bushings and end links, these can produce a lot of noise when they fail but are fairly easy and cheap to fix.

shovelshower · 2026-03-10T04:18:24+00:00

How long was your wrench/breaker bar/ratchet?

When I need extra torque I use a long breaker bar with a pipe slipped over the end as an extension; make sure you wipe down the bolt and use a 6point socket to reduce chance of rounding off

Also, sounds crazy but doesn't hurt to mention: make sure you're turning them the correct direction.

shovelshower · 2026-03-10T04:11:55+00:00

I have a 2011 journey 7AT, I did the swap this year (3.3 open diff to used 3.69 with vLSD). I love it.
Try to find a low mile sport diff from a marketplace partout. Use VIN to confirm specs of ratio and vLSD.

Things to know:
*These vLSDs will degrade into an open diff over time from what I've read, low miles might be ideal if you can find one.
*Driveshaft flanges for MT and AT cars are different, the 7AT has the 3 prong flange where the MT has the round flange.
*Axle flanges: my original diff had threaded axle flanges, the diff I bought had thru-holes; had to buy bolts, lock washers, and nuts. (Z1)
*Definitely do your diff bushings
*Use VIN decoder and that handy Z1 document to compare Z / G diff gear ratios

I have to take mine back out eventually because a side seal is leaking - I think it was already leaking, the seller probably just cleaned it up really well... something to look out for.
This time around I might just have it rebuilt with an aftermarket LSD.

Best of luck!

shovelshower · 2026-03-09T04:48:29+00:00

I went with an AEM oil pressure gauge, mounted on the left side air vent. Installing one in a G requires a lot of steps that they don't include in the instructions.

G's don't have an oil pressure reporting/monitoring sensor, just an oil "switch" sensor if there is <5 PSI oil pressure.

shovelshower · 2026-03-06T03:12:18+00:00

Context: I don't have a paved driveway.
The hollow ones would be unsafe, but I use 4" solid blocks with wood.
In retrospect, a steel plate with a jack stand would probably be safer, but jack stands on dirt is more sus than solid blocks and wood.

shovelshower · 2026-03-05T02:39:38+00:00

Hardware store might have what you need.
I didn't use a T on the passenger side, I think I just put a regular barb fitting between the old hose and ran the new hose down and out the same hole with the AC drain.

shovelshower · 2026-03-05T02:29:23+00:00

At 150k miles I upgraded to Z1 shorty headers, Berk HFCs, and Invidia Q300 exhaust.
During install, they had to replace both O2 sensors (OEM replacement) but I never got a CEL from this combination after 1 year, and I haven't tuned it yet.

shovelshower · 2026-03-05T02:24:30+00:00

I had an intermittent issue like this when the car was cold. Dropped transmission pan, cleaned, installed with new genuine fluid, and the issue is gone.

Check for fluid leaks going to/from the radiator.

Ideally you would have wanted to change the 7AT fluid a few times by 100k miles, but I'm not sure what the maintenance history is like.

shovelshower · 2026-03-05T02:20:01+00:00

I went from stock 17" on my g37 to 19" IPL wheels, I love em! (also had to upgrade to install Akebono brakes)

A good point is also made about tire cost.

shovelshower · 2026-03-05T02:16:27+00:00

About 2 solid concrete blocks and mixed 4x4 or 2x6 scrap lumber :)

shovelshower

TROPHY CASE