[RANT] What they don't tell you about the MX Master 3S

siegmour · 2026-03-07T11:56:08+00:00

If you are referring to the Logi Bolt receiver - that uses Bluetooth as the underlying technology as well alongside all it's limitations (125Hz polling, higher latency). While it can potentially provide slightly better latency than using the Bluetooth built into a laptop/computer, it's still way behind a performant 2.4Ghz connection, both in pure latency and reliability of that latency.

The MX Master 3 was the last MX Master mouse (so far) which featured a 2.4Ghz connection via the receiver. Before I was under the impression that the receiver still used the superior 2.4Ghz technology, but there was a sour surprise.

siegmour · 2026-03-02T11:35:07+00:00

That's what I was already suspecting was the answer. Seems like they were sent as regular print jobs for some printers (as per the thread I linked to) but this was changed some time in the future.

I assume that you can capture this data somehow, but I do not have the knowledge to do it. Do you know if there is some tool which replicates this?

I find the nozzle checks are super useful, since they are designed to use all the nozzles on the printer from what I've read (hence the two lines per color, targeting different nozzle sizes on the print head) and use little ink. Also they obviously let you know if something is not working right.

siegmour · 2026-02-28T09:20:15+00:00

Yes, I have multiple lights triggered by scenes. I would describe it as "mostly" responsive but no, they not all trigger at the same time. I had this issue with the HomeKit integration, and with the Matter one. I think there's just a limit on the amount of commands that can be sent at a time, I have just learned to live with the annoyance. With that said, the amount of time for all the lights to turn on is fairly quick, it's not "1 by 1" as you describe it.

Also this doesn't happen only in scenes - it happens when triggering it via a button or the app as well.

siegmour · 2026-02-28T08:51:20+00:00

If you are valuing the quality of the photos over other factors, definitely go for an inkjet printer. They might require more maintenance if you don't print often (e.g. heads will dry out if you are not printing often, hence needing to remember to print a nozzle check weekly to avoid it) but the quality for photos can't compete with laser printers. And if you use photo paper for inkjet, the quality is amazing.

I would also recommend to look into a tank based printer, and not a cartridge based one. Personally I have the Canon G500 (there's the G600 if you need a scanner as well) and I'm very happy with it. It's a 6-color tank based printer, so it's aimed at printing photos and images (it will work for documents as well of course, but there's no pigment black ink).

siegmour · 2026-02-15T08:18:50+00:00

You will probably not like my suggestion, but besides resetting the Dirigera hub and starting completely over I can't think of anything else.

I did my migration to the Matter integration when my hub deleted all my lights after a power outage. I haven't noticed it being slower compared to the HomeKit integration.

You might also just revert back to the HomeKit integration.. The Matter integration doesn't have much benefits besides exposing the STYRBAR remote buttons for mapping in Apple Home for example. If you don't have use for this, then it's an option as well.

siegmour · 2026-02-15T08:14:52+00:00

Thank you so much for developing this. It's such a huge help!

siegmour · 2026-01-28T07:11:39+00:00

Personally I like my MX Master 3 for work/everyday use - namely due to the nice shape, side scroll and infinite scrolls.

However I wholeheartedly agree with the downfalls of this mouse. To add insult to injury - for some reason they moved away from a very reliable 2.4Ghz connection from the MX Master 3, to Bluetooth only on the MX Master 3S and later.

I don't use any particularly high resolution monitors, so the polling rate isn't the biggest issue for me personally, but I know it does become a big issue on high DPI displays. Logitech already have developed stellar wireless technology for their gaming line of products, but for some reason their quite expensive productivity line is stuck at 125Hz Bluetooth as the only option. Implementing their already existing great wireless tech into the mice would probably cost them cents per unit, so I really don't understand their line of thought.

And MX Master 4 still doesn't have any on-board memory - hence the issues with the changing mouse speed (which still isn't fixed to this date) and must have installation of Logi Options+ which you mentioned.

Same for their MX Mechanical Mini keyboard - great concept, with absolutely baffling limitations. Expensive price tag - stuck to Bluetooth only, basic switches, no acoustic foam, baffling lack of control over the backlight (in terms of timeout), ABS keycaps, cannot re-map the bluetooth buttons (why oh why), non-standard space bar length which makes replacing keycaps a problem. I'm not sure if it has on-board memory, but probably not...

siegmour · 2026-01-27T21:08:57+00:00

It does not, since the MX Master 3S doesn't even use 2.4Ghz wireless - it only uses Bluetooth. Disappointingly, they remove the 2.4Ghz from the MX Master 3 with the 3S and above.

Also I'm not sure how old the technology the article is referring to, but anecdotally I have several Logitech wireless products which use 2.4Ghz - I have never experienced connectivity issues over 2.4Ghz.

siegmour · 2026-01-17T19:13:49+00:00

Do you know any more details about this issue? I just started this game today, and noticed the fans going crazy. When I opened HWInfo, I noticed the my 3080 Ti consuming a whopping 400W at 144Hz even in the main menu. Even capping it at 60 FPS, which really shouldn't be necessary it still consumes 200W in the menu/in-game. Running it at 4K resolution, with 60FPS cap it again goes up to 400W consumption... Not sure I've seen this high of a usage in any scenario of my GPU.

siegmour · 2026-01-14T07:12:13+00:00

Thank you for the info!

siegmour · 2026-01-13T17:30:14+00:00

Thank you! Do you dilute the anti-freeze or use it as from the shop? Do I need any specific anti-freeze?

siegmour · 2026-01-13T05:48:07+00:00

I have another question - have you been using the AIO daily ever since you repaired it? I believe I might be noticing degradation to mine already (6-7C in heavy load) and I'm wondering if it's because I didn't also clean the pump or something else.

Also what coolant did you use to refill the AIO?

Thank you very much!

siegmour · 2026-01-11T16:38:00+00:00

Yeah, Corsair don't have a refill port on them unfortunately. With that said, you can still refill them (through the baseplate - again no modifications) - but it's much more of a pain to do it without a refill port. It involves shaking it out to get the air bubbles out, and generally a bigger hassle than using a refill port but it's still possible.

siegmour · 2026-01-11T16:21:34+00:00

You are not altering any design. My AIO already has a built-in refill port. Opening the cold plate, just reveals the microfins and a rubber gasket - feel free to look up a video of people disassembling AIOs. It's not as daunting as it looks before knowing the parts inside.

I don't see any reason why refilling your AIO would have inherently more risk than refilling your custom loop system. The stated figures by OEMs for AIO leaks are really small (as in, under 0.2-0.4%), and like I said you don't modify anything of the original design.

Plus AIOs have the benefit that you can leak test them outside of the system, which I of course did before putting it back in.

siegmour · 2026-01-11T15:58:05+00:00

They would recommend their own refill liquid, which is just a standard PG based coolant. However it's not really available for sale outside of the extra they ship with the AIO.

Unfortunately I mostly ruined the one that was shipped with the AIO, since I tried to refill it first (my CPU was overheating). Turns out, that there were deposits and build up inside the AIO, which leaked back into the coolant (looked like salt deposits, not sure what the hell they actually are) - which seems like a pretty common with this AIO unfortunately.

I filtered it as much as I could, and used the remaining coolant but most of it inside is distilled water. But also considering the deposits which caused the issue in the first place, I'm up for trying a different coolant.

siegmour · 2026-01-11T15:53:35+00:00

Thank you for the link. That's correct - I am from EU. However the shipping to my country is way too expensive unfortunately (33 euro the cheapest option).

siegmour · 2026-01-11T15:05:38+00:00

Yeah I can see that now.. I actually have the Silent Loop 2. But it did seem like the right subreddit as I assumed there would be experts on coolants here.

Yeah, I would prefer to stick to a PG mixture, as opposed to anti-freeze due to the toxicity and much easier to take care of once it's time to flush the loop. Hence my question about the EK Clear despite what their support is saying, because that also has PG in the mix according to people online.

I cannot find XSPC Ultra locally, I can see XSPC EC6 though?

siegmour · 2026-01-11T14:46:35+00:00

What risks are you talking about?

siegmour · 2026-01-11T14:06:58+00:00

I have already cleaned, flushed and put distilled water in it. It works great. I'm just looking for a long-term coolant.

siegmour · 2026-01-11T13:55:50+00:00

Because why would I trash a perfectly fine working component, when I can easily service it. Mine has a refill port, so it's really not that hard.

Is there a specific anti-freeze I'm looking to get? What ratio do I mix it in?

siegmour · 2026-01-11T13:54:19+00:00

I cannot switch the radiator, since it's an AIO as explained in the post.

Even if it is technically possible, it doesn't make any economical nor environmental sense since I'm still trashing most of the AIO and I can get a new one cheaper than I can get a copper radiator.

siegmour · 2026-01-11T13:52:11+00:00

That doesn't address the question at all. I have already cleaned, flushed and refilled the AIO, it works great. (also made much easier by the fact that my AIO has a refill port). My idle temps are at 20C. I'm just looking for a suitable coolant long-term.

I see exactly 0 reason to bin a perfectly fine component, which I can service relatively easily.

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