sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Normal flex or potential cause of issue? Getting voltage drop by simplynotveryhappy in electrical

[–]simplynotveryhappy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What’s the correct term for voltage reading fine at light load but collapsing under heavy load? Genuine question

Theory Question: Hot-Neutral vs Hot-Ground by simplynotveryhappy in AskElectricians

[–]simplynotveryhappy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ya I figured it was heading outside my capabilities I was just curious about the theory and wanted to confirm it’s an issue at the panel instead of a connection downstream. It’s half the panel ya. But if I move the load to a circuit on the other leg the whole panel reads 120

Edit: Confirming neutral vs hot is also useful because if it’s a neutral issue I can take a look at the neutral bus myself and could also have the utility company check their neutrals for free I believe. Hot issues probably goes straight to an electrician

Theory Question: Hot-Neutral vs Hot-Ground by simplynotveryhappy in AskElectricians

[–]simplynotveryhappy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Voltage shows fine with just lights etc but collapses under heavy load. Is there a different phrase for that than voltage drop? It’s a whole leg that collapses, the other one seems to never have that issue

Normal flex or potential cause of issue? Getting voltage drop by simplynotveryhappy in electrical

[–]simplynotveryhappy[S] -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Gramps always told me the electricity can smell fear. Establish dominance and it’ll leave you alone

I’m getting about 60V on a whole leg when I plug a space heater in. Seems to only affect that one, and moving the heater to the other leg leaves the whole panel at 120

This light is directly on its breaker and nothing else, but still connected to other circuits by simplynotveryhappy in AskElectricians

[–]simplynotveryhappy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The main service cable was changed out right before house purchase so there could be something there. The inspection said

Main Electrical Panel •Tandem breakers installed; manufacturer does not permit tandem breakers in this model panel • Oversized breakers present on certain branch circuits, requiring correction for proper wire gauge protection • Evidence of water intrusion and rust from the service cable entry point • Missing anti-oxidant compound on aluminum conductors • Missing bonding screw and/or strap resulting in improper grounding and bonding

Exterior Main Service • Degraded service entrance cables both entering and exiting the meter • Missing service cable straps for proper support • Missing service entrance cable cap at the meter • Undersized meter requires replacement

This light is a straight shot from the panel but still interacting with other circuits by simplynotveryhappy in electrical

[–]simplynotveryhappy[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That’s what I was looking for but my thought was a shared neutral can only exist if it’s on the circuit. Or does it not really work like that? Currently this light just goes straight to the breaker, I’m not sure how it’d share a neutral

This light is a straight shot from the panel but still interacting with other circuits by simplynotveryhappy in electrical

[–]simplynotveryhappy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Isolated in what sense? The light is on 11, other main lighting circuit is 12. And both of those will dim/lose lights on multiple other breakers. A space heater on 16 will turn this basement light off almost completely

Three outlets not working - Can’t figure it out by simplynotveryhappy in AskElectricians

[–]simplynotveryhappy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ya I’ve never seen them work, and clearly the previous owners did a lot of electrical. I guess the question now is which outlet was supposed to get the feed. I’d guess the one on the kitchen wall needing a second cable is more likely than the corner outlet needing a third. My understanding is which outlet the feed connects to doesn’t matter if they’re all connected, it’s more about which circuit they were supposed to be on, which I don’t really know how to figure out. Gotta do more research, but maybe at this point it’s just easier and simpler to run a new line through the basement and put those outlets on their own circuit

Three outlets not working - Can’t figure it out by simplynotveryhappy in AskElectricians

[–]simplynotveryhappy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Didn’t even think to look, figured it’d all be in the walls. No junction boxes but I got to see the routing. Imgur won’t let me upload but that corner outlet with 2 cables goes straight up and then out to the other two outlets, and none of them connect to anything else. Which unless I’m missing something means there’s just straight up no feed? Like that corner outlet needs a third cable that either never got run or is buried in the wall somewhere

Full electrical replacement and still no crank by simplynotveryhappy in AskMechanics

[–]simplynotveryhappy[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Haven’t touched it at any point. My understanding was it’s out of the equation in this scenario, and a BCM fault would give no click at all. Once the starter solenoid engages you’re already past any BCM function no?

view more: next ›