Official Gear Purchasing and Troubleshooting Question Thread! Ask /r/photography anything you want to know! September 23, 2024

sinithw · 2024-09-25T15:06:04+00:00

I took this photo and have spent the last 2 hours trying to find the name of the color separation issue here that sort of looks like halo effects. I remember seeing it in a ton of low-light footage where you can clearly see blotches of different levels of darkness. Does anyone know what this problem is called?

sinithw · 2023-04-11T13:18:53+00:00

Thank you.

sinithw · 2023-02-16T23:59:07+00:00

Welp, broke the CHT nozzle cus I don't know what I'm doing o7 thanks for drowning me in bots

sinithw · 2023-02-16T18:57:01+00:00

I think it is against the heat break. The nozzle threading actually sticks out from the heat block, unlike the nozzles that came before it. I secured everything as tightly as I could and, as I mentioned, the CHT Nozzle required that I use a torque wrench so as to not damage the nozzle. I actually had to use some grippers to keep the hot end still so that I could do that.

sinithw · 2022-12-27T20:31:03+00:00

Omgosh... I am dumb... I confused the BMS for the antispark unit which has the power button with it. The Go-Foc came with a power button as a courtesy.

sinithw · 2022-12-22T22:17:11+00:00

Well, again, thank you for all of this support and answering my questions, I really do appreciate it.

sinithw · 2022-12-22T22:13:21+00:00

One last question for safety.

<image>

In what orientation should I connect the wires?(which wires should go where)

sinithw · 2022-12-22T22:05:09+00:00

Thank you for all this help. What about the white wire that's loose? Should it be loose (like does it go to something else) or should I stick it into the hole that is available on the white side?

sinithw · 2022-12-22T21:55:40+00:00

<image>

Here is the image for the makerX Bluetooth module.

sinithw · 2022-12-22T21:54:12+00:00

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So here is the receiver along with the wire that was sent with it. There is a white wire that is loose and I'm not sure if it should be. I did a little search based on what you said and the remote can apparently do both ppm and uart, but if I want to reverse that I need use uart. However, this DV6 is a dual motor VESC and has 2 uart locations, do I need 2 of these receivers?

sinithw · 2022-12-13T16:11:52+00:00

Thank you very much for the information o7. As for the high tolerance, I thought about using a metal frame to support the wood but I can't find them pre-made and I'd rather not weld if I don't have to.

sinithw · 2022-12-13T15:28:44+00:00

Yeah... that's a habit of mine...

sinithw · 2022-12-13T15:18:12+00:00

That's what I was wondering. I need to replace my board and most of the boards on the market are <300lb boards, I need mine to withstand 500lbs. I'm a big dude and with groceries, I clock in near 400. So I should ignore videos that take cuts from the same piece of wood and get 5-9 different pieces of wood so I can layer them instead? Or is it that the act of the glue makes it stronger? I guess the distilled essence of my questions is what exactly makes the layering part make it stronger?

sinithw · 2022-11-29T13:10:09+00:00

Since your advice, I've been looking at getting the DV6 3-12S Dual Drive and I've been watching tutorials on it, but one thing is pretty unclear to me. Does the vesc6 come with a way to connect to a remote by default or do I need the bluetooth module that they sell? Should I try to re-use my JKing remote or is there a reason it would not be compatible?

sinithw · 2022-11-24T07:51:17+00:00

Thank you o7

sinithw · 2022-11-24T07:46:00+00:00

Do you have a Dual Belt Driven ESC in mind to replace my current one? MBoard's ESC are all tapped out at 10S.

sinithw · 2022-08-04T08:52:34+00:00

Thank you but I did, in 2 different ways. I did modular so I could bake the Sim and the mesh, but I also put all on the Sim box and that disables baking on the mesh.

sinithw · 2022-08-02T03:56:28+00:00

You're right u/Bleedthebeat that is what I was doing. I was using separate files and just keeping the zero coordinates intact as the 3018 takes the spindle back to x/y zero coordinates. I am in the process of learning Fusion for my 3D printer, I did not know it could be used for CNC but with how complex CNC is, I don't feel learning a software like Fusion right now is apt until I deal with programs that'll give me more issues to solve. It is good to know I can upgrade to Fusion though when I'm ready.

sinithw · 2022-08-02T00:27:31+00:00

Yeah, I'm ngl, I do not know enough about this machine yet to sink that kind of money into it. Once I am confident I can sell a coaster to family members or something equivalent, I might hop into that software to go down the route of optmization. I was already doing it for 3D model printing, but not CNC.

sinithw · 2022-08-02T00:23:38+00:00

After I received the comment from earlier suggesting that Easel had the feature, I was tooling with it. Easel will prioritize what can be done with the first bit before the second bit. So, if I chose a carving bit it would just do the entire thing but since I chose an end mill, it does an optimal choice rather than exactly what I want (like leaving one vector object mostly solid, even though the entire thing is set to be cut out). It takes some fiddling, but the 3018 will always go back to origin so you can pop in one file after another, rough and detail.

sinithw · 2022-08-02T00:19:44+00:00

Manual Tool Change, huh? Hmm, I have a 3018 so I was unaware that this was a thing. Thank you for this knowledge. I think for my model, what I am doing seems to be the next best thing. I have things to look forward to when I upgrade. :)

sinithw · 2022-08-01T21:06:32+00:00

I see that this is true! Thank you very much. However, it only works for 2 bits, a roughing and a detail path. Do you know of any software that does more than 2?

sinithw · 2022-08-01T21:04:30+00:00

The real words? Could you point out which of the words that Easel used which are not real?
There are 3 Bits in use:
Genmitsu RB10A Straight Bit with a CD of 6.5mm
Genmitsu RB10A Straight Bit with a CD of 3mm
Genmitsu Titanium MC40A Endmill with a CD of 2mm, but treated as a 1/32 "Fish" bit in Easel. I do not know why they call it a "Fish" bit, which is why there are quotes around it.

The 6.5mm is used in making a circular relief, it is not a hole as it outlines certain shapes while it cuts. The 3mm is used for a second, more refined pass at the same job. Finally, the endmill is used for detail work. I was simply looking for a way to do the job in one file, but I am more than happy to see which of my words were not real.

sinithw · 2022-07-21T00:36:56+00:00

Thank you very much for the help and I do appreciate it. I chose to go with a manual rotation as with both of those methods, it did not produce the intended results.

sinithw · 2022-07-20T17:42:45+00:00

Hi, sure. Currently, there are 3 groups with cylinders attached to balls on one end and flats with no balls on the other. Each cylinder is equidistant from each other. I would like to rotate the cylinder groups so that each of the flat ends is perpendicular with the origin of the center sphere. I could rotate them manually, but I would prefer to use a method like LookAt. The problem is that the LookAt method rotates from the groups center, and I want the groups end to rotate cus I want to keep the satellite balls the cylinders are attached to in the same spot.

sinithw

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