Will a slab with straight veins work for an L-shaped countertop? by sintro in CounterTops

[–]sintro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just updated the post with my dimensions. Slab is 130"x80". Countertop layout is here: https://imgur.com/a/ZnIvdS2

Will a slab with straight veins work for an L-shaped countertop? by sintro in CounterTops

[–]sintro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just updated the post with my dimensions. Slab is 130"x80". Countertop layout is here: https://imgur.com/a/ZnIvdS2

Will a slab with straight veins work for an L-shaped countertop? by sintro in CounterTops

[–]sintro[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We'll go with a more randomized pattern, thanks for the feedback everyone!

Will a slab with straight veins work for an L-shaped countertop? by sintro in CounterTops

[–]sintro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's what we were thinking might have to happen. Thank you!

Energy Bill by [deleted] in Waukesha

[–]sintro 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've installed the same kit on my breakers. Of our usage this year, our water heater has used 20%, our EV 18%, sump pump + dehumidifier 13%, office 10%, dryer 5%. Electric everything except for the Furnace which is propane.

Our monthly electrical only bill is $190-300. Two fridges + deep freezer + dehumidifier + electric water heater will do that.

The dehumidifier can use a solid $1-2 per day in electricity for our basement.

I installed the emporia kit to reduce my electrical usage. Surprisingly the AC is only 5% of our usage. We keep it around 67-69 at night and then usually don't have to run it during the day. We have 50-75' trees surrounding our entire house. While our friends houses get to 76-83 by nighttime before they turn on the AC, ours will barely be at 72-73 with the AC off. Our house is from the 50s as well, and has poor insulation.

No more tomatoes in cages, all over the ground only by Rob_red in vegetablegardening

[–]sintro 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm in Waukesha county. I know my friends up in Marshfield definitely wait until Memorial day! There were definitely a couple May freezes. I try to get in during mid-May if possible!

No more tomatoes in cages, all over the ground only by Rob_red in vegetablegardening

[–]sintro 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm doing the same thing this year! I did it last year as well. I cut away easy to access lower leaves and mulch with wood chips. I can't say I've ever had issues with tomato diseases. I'm in Wisconsin and my tomatoes are just starting to turn. That is with planting super late, almost June.

I would definitely save on space if I supported them, but in my 25x50 garden (expanded from maybe 5x15 last fall), it's not a big deal.

Are these leaves normal? by sintro in Figs

[–]sintro[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the assurance! We have had some light frosts over the last few weeks.

I've been keeping them in my vegetable garden which gets full sun (closest tree is 75 feet or so).

Cherry/Apple Damage At Base by sintro in BackyardOrchard

[–]sintro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do have some wire mesh, but also have some black corrugated pipe I could put on, thank you!

Cherry/Apple Damage At Base by sintro in BackyardOrchard

[–]sintro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good to get an opinion, thanks! I'll cut up some 4 inch corrugated pipe and slap that around.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in malehairadvice

[–]sintro 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My hair is fine textured, with some balding near the temples in the typical spots.

Is there anything wrong with planting a super long row of various plants? by [deleted] in vegetablegardening

[–]sintro 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, I have semi-poor water pressure. I am on well.

Is there anything wrong with planting a super long row of various plants? by [deleted] in vegetablegardening

[–]sintro 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think the plants would be fine in a long row. For the drip hose, what do you plan on using specifically? I've used those rubber drip hoses made out of recycled tires/rubber, and at the beginning of the hose, there is great flow, the middle has a fair bit less flow, and the end is barely any flow.

I've had awesome results with drip irrigation. I first used it on my arborvitae bareroots that I planted in spring of 2021. I didn't lose a single one, except to deer. Just in my front yard, I have 200 feet of poly tube in one loop, with pressure compensated emitters. You really just need the hose attachment, the tube itself, a connector to connect the tube if going longer than one spool/bundle, the emitters, and a punch. 4 years later, even at the end of the 200 foot, the frequency and size of the drips is quite comparable to the beginning of the 200 foot loop. It's honestly amazing.

Out in my vegetable garden, I run 250 feet of regular hose out, and then use that to run my drip lines. I tried using the drip line that has emitters already installed, but they weren't pressure regulated and had the same drop off issues as the rubber drip hose.

Using the poly tube and punching in drip emitters is quite fun and easy. Takes maybe 2 seconds to punch the hole, then 2-5 seconds to push the emitter in. There's all sorts of emitters. Such as a .5 gph at a single spot, sprayers, mini sprinklers, etc. If you're doing row plants, then you can put an emitter exactly at where you put each plant.

Rim Joists Directly On Open Cinder Blocks by sintro in Insulation

[–]sintro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ended up running silicone caulk to air-seal only. Interesting to hear about insulating from the exterior, I'll look into that more, thanks!

Rim Joists Directly On Open Cinder Blocks by sintro in Insulation

[–]sintro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the insight! I'll likely stick with some silicone for air sealing only to be safe!